Clutch Lever pull

[Boostn]

I really wanted to know if there mod will help with the amount of clutch lever pull I have to make to get the clutch to completely disengage.

I really hate the fact that mine has to be full hand pull (all fingers) to the point it gets to the hand grip. I thought about bleeding the system to see if it helps.

I had a 2005 R6 and I liked the fact that I can pull the clutch lever with my two fingers and my other smaller fingers can still grip on the hand grip. It would disengage the clutch enough for me to shift.

Thanks.

 

[Bigbeavk]

There are many posts about replacing the slave cylinder with an 05 which will give an easier pull. I'm not sure it will be a 2 finger pull but it makes a difference for those that have switched. Use the search method listed below and you will find it. It's a direct replacement and pretty easy to do. :yahoo:

Here it is. The Part number is here as well a place to get it from.

Clicky

Another post by HaulinAshe

 

[Constant Mesh]

If you change to a larger diameter slave cylinder then you'll have to pull the lever in farther for total disengagement. Wrong direction I believe for solving your complaint.

 

[wfooshee]

I assume you've already moved it out as far as you want for its initial position? 1 is furthest out, 5 is closest.

If all you want is faster clutch action from grab to fully clutched, there is no adjustment other than changing hydraulics, and you'd need a smaller diameter slave to speed up the motion.

Clutch pull is heavy on this bike. Getting out of a crowded event like an air show is no fun at all.

 

[03HiYoSilver]

Here is the link to the Clutch Slave Cylinder swap:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=102322

 

[ShinyPartsUp]

I went from a 5 finger pull to a two finger pull (without going to the bar) with the combination of a GENI Master Slave Cyliner swap and a set of Pazzo adjustable levers. YMMV.

 

[RadioHowie]

I went from a 5 finger pull to a two finger pull (without going to the bar) with the combination of a GENI Master Slave Cyliner swap and a set of Pazzo adjustable levers. YMMV.

Yeahbut--yeahbut--yeahbut we ain't all rollin' in dough like you! :dribble:

 

[bigjimbiker]

I really wanted to know if there mod will help with the amount of clutch lever pull I have to make to get the clutch to completely disengage.
I really hate the fact that mine has to be full hand pull (all fingers) to the point it gets to the hand grip. I thought about bleeding the system to see if it helps.

I had a 2005 R6 and I liked the fact that I can pull the clutch lever with my two fingers and my other smaller fingers can still grip on the hand grip. It would disengage the clutch enough for me to shift.

Thanks.

[SIZE=14pt]What's a clutch lever?[/SIZE] ...sorry, it had to be said.

 

[ShinyPartsUp]

I went from a 5 finger pull to a two finger pull (without going to the bar) with the combination of a GENI Master Slave Cyliner swap and a set of Pazzo adjustable levers. YMMV.

Yeahbut--yeahbut--yeahbut we ain't all rollin' in dough like you! :dribble:

It's called work my man..

And if you only knew...

 

[Zorlac]

Maybe this might be of use to you.

 

[HaulinAshe]

Since Yamaha has reverted to the 2005 clutch slave cylinder (Push Lever Comp is what they call it), the price has skyrocketed!!!

I guess making it standard equipment on a 2010 makes it worth more???

The new list price is roughly $135. I just bought one for the 2006 I just purchased. Even at $110 (discounted parts price), IMO it's worth every penny when you get caught in roll/pedal/go accident traffic.

 

[wfooshee]

The slave cyl swap is for lightening the effort, not shortening it. I may be misreading what he means by pull, but it sounds like he wants more clutch action for a given lever movement, i.e. shorter pull. Larger diameter slave to lighten the effort will make the pull longer, all else being equal.

Levers might be the trick, but kinda spendy just to try . . .

 

[ShinyPartsUp]

Since Yamaha has reverted to the 2005 clutch slave cylinder (Push Lever Comp is what they call it), the price has skyrocketed!!!
I guess making it standard equipment on a 2010 makes it worth more???

The new list price is roughly $135. I just bought one for the 2006 I just purchased. Even at $110 (discounted parts price), IMO it's worth every penny when you get caught in roll/pedal/go accident traffic.

WOW! I paid half that, if I remember correctly.

 

[kaitsdad]

Since Yamaha has reverted to the 2005 clutch slave cylinder (Push Lever Comp is what they call it), the price has skyrocketed!!!
I guess making it standard equipment on a 2010 makes it worth more???

The new list price is roughly $135. I just bought one for the 2006 I just purchased. Even at $110 (discounted parts price), IMO it's worth every penny when you get caught in roll/pedal/go accident traffic.

WOW! I paid half that, if I remember correctly.

Yeah, it used to be lots less money when we had Mr. McCoy as a resource. Hope he's doing ok in his new ventures.

Two things join together to make a dramatic improvement in clutch pull - the GenI slave cylinder retrofit, and a set of Pazzo levers from Bike Effects. Together, they ain't cheap, but oh, what a relief!

 

[Boostn]

Since Yamaha has reverted to the 2005 clutch slave cylinder (Push Lever Comp is what they call it), the price has skyrocketed!!!
I guess making it standard equipment on a 2010 makes it worth more???

The new list price is roughly $135. I just bought one for the 2006 I just purchased. Even at $110 (discounted parts price), IMO it's worth every penny when you get caught in roll/pedal/go accident traffic.

WOW! I paid half that, if I remember correctly.

Yeah, it used to be lots less money when we had Mr. McCoy as a resource. Hope he's doing ok in his new ventures.

Two things join together to make a dramatic improvement in clutch pull - the GenI slave cylinder retrofit, and a set of Pazzo levers from Bike Effects. Together, they ain't cheap, but oh, what a relief!

I already have the pazzo levers, made the previous owner to sell it to me for 80 bucks when I bought the bike used with 1,880 miles.

The pazzo levers did help little bit, but I had to put the lever setting all the way out. I managed to pull barely enough with two fingers to shift gears. It didn't feel like complete disengagement when I did it.

I haven't gotten the Gen1 slave cylinder yet, and I do agree that can't help reduce the pull of the lever. I was wondering if there is adjustable clutch rod in between the slave cylinder and the clutch? So I can adjust it out to the point before it starts disengaging the clutch? I have done that on some cars.

 

[wfooshee]

I haven't gotten the Gen1 slave cylinder yet, and I do agree that can't help reduce the pull of the lever. I was wondering if there is adjustable clutch rod in between the slave cylinder and the clutch? So I can adjust it out to the point before it starts disengaging the clutch? I have done that on some cars.

This came up in another context some weeks ago, when Nitrotate was adapting the clutch system to the T-Rex style trike he's building. His clutch pedal moved the clutch too far, and he actually inverted the spring discs, something like that. but in the discussion was the question of changing the length of the actuator arm in the slave cylinder.

Wouldn't work, it would just change the rest position of the clutch. When the spring stops clamping the clutch (pushing the slave cylinder's piston back into the cylinder) the piston stops. There's no gap to adjust.

Wouldn't work in your case, either. If you tried to use a longer piston rod, it would just push the piston farther back, and the next stroke would have the same amount of motion as stock. If you had a rod long enough it couldn't go back any further, then you've pre-loaded the clutch and kept it from engaging completely, leading to slippage and clutch wear.

Only two places to adjust clutch travel versus lever travel. First is the relative diameter of the hydraulic cylinders, and as has already been pointed out, the larger diameter slave of the earlier models gives you a softer effort, but at the expense of a longer throw. The other place to adjust is the length of the throw arm on the clutch lever. How far is it from the lever's pivot point to the end of the piston going into the master cylinder? The stock lever has no adjustment for that. Maybe the Pazzo levers do, I don't know, or maybe they're just different to begin with. Making that distance longer would give more clutch action for the amount of lever action, but at the expense of higher effort.

It's all about leverage, and you can't shorten the motion without increasing the effort, nor can you decrease the effort without lengthening the motion.

I think what you're fighting here is just that the FJR, with more than twice the displacement of your R6, simply has a bigger, beefier clutch assembly. It doesn't have to take the revs that the R6 could throw into a clutch, but it has to take more torque. A little more diameter, bigger plates, thus a stronger spring for clamping force.

 

[greywolf]

Would the Rizoma fluid tanks work for this?

https://cjmoto.com/-strse-11/Rizoma-Fluid-T...ting/Detail.bok

Does anyone know the Gen 1 volume?

 

[Gramercy]

Maybe this might be of use to you.

Actually, when George Plimpton was interviewing Ernest Hemingway for an article in the "Paris Review" he asked Hemingway what was the greatest gift a writer could have. And without hestitation, Hemingway replied: "A built-in shock-proof shit detector".

Cheers,

Harpo

 

[Barry 07 FJR1300AE]

I don't understand it takes literally NO effort just one flick of the finger to shift. O wait YOU have to pull the cluch?! Yeah that sucks so much!!! Haha. You cluch pullers had it coming!!!