clutch slipping after oil change

[becoyote]

Changed oil last week and clutch is slipping for the 1st few minutes until the bike warms. It was Mobil red cap which I thought was safe. Guess I need to drain and replace?

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

Mobil Clean 5000 is a car oil that has a red cap -- is that what you used?

Exxon-Mobil doesn't list JASO MA certification (needed to be sure of compliance for motorcycle use) for that oil.

Mobil 1 Motorcycle oils are certified JASO MA -- and should be clutch and sprague friendly.

What, exactly, did you put in...?

 

[escapefjrtist]

If you used Synthetic 15-50 Red Cap it does not contain any friction modifiers. Many (including me) have used this oil successfully in the FJR for thousands of miles. Clutch has never given the slightest hint of slipping...I'm running a crankcase of the new 15-50 Gray Cap right now. Is the clutch tired?

--G

Edit -- I see that you have an '08, so hopefully the clutch isn't shot yet. You didn't use (as above) the Clean 5000 or 7500 did ya?

 

[RadioHowie]

You didn't use (as above) the Clean 5000 or 7500 did ya?

Don't know, but he DOES have 18,000 dragstrip miles on it.

 

[Bustanut joker]

You didn't use (as above) the Clean 5000 or 7500 did ya?

Don't know, but he DOES have 18,000 dragstrip miles on it.

Oh! Big help you are fukpickle... I suppose for yer next trick you're going to suggest he just add a bit of sand to the crankcase? Possibly a set of Lakepipes too?

Well don't forget to tell him about your ultimate speed tip... The sparkplug in the exhaust pipe.

Man, that cold spell down South really messed with yer head didn't it?

Damn old fart..

:****:

:jester:

 

[Potential]

You need to be more specific on the oil you used but I bet it was low-friction car oil.

 

[Slosey]

I found this useful... https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html

 

[James Burleigh]

Take it from me. You need a new clutch. I'm an expert.

 

[FJRBluesman]

Most bad clutches are bad at any temp. The going away part when warm baffles me. But I would agree, his clutch is probably gone.

You don't say how many miles are on the bike, etc. Throw us a bone, we need the info.

 

[C&C]

Change the oil back to a known safe oil and see if it corrects itself. Running the slippery stuff isn't going to 'tank' the clutch (unless it was a gonner to begin with).

 

[becoyote]

okay it wasn't red top, it was mobil 1 full syn grey top 10w 30 , not specific mc oil.

about 18k on the bike mostly touring miles. No abuse to the clutch.

Just so I have my terms straight, idling in first gear the bike wants to roll forward with the clutch lever in. As soon as it warms up it is fine and back to normal. temps were in the mid 30's

Going to drain it today, nack to dino rotella

 

[BkrK12]

That's not slipping, that's dragging, and quite common when cold. Bleeding the clutch may help. You don't need to drain and refill oil.

 

[RadioHowie]

idling in first gear the bike wants to roll forward with the clutch lever in

Sounds like someone's Gen II needs a clutch soak!

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

okay it wasn't red top, it was mobil 1 full syn grey top 10w 30 , not specific mc oil.

Thanks for posting back.

It turns out that there's more than one Mobil 1 'grey top' (apparently, the 'color-thing' isn't going to work for Mobil?).

But, their full-syn 10W-30 has the ILSAC "starburst" -- which means it has the fuel economy enhancing additives that may be harmfull to motorcycles.

Just so I have my terms straight, idling in first gear the bike wants to roll forward with the clutch lever in. As soon as it warms up it is fine and back to normal. temps were in the mid 30's

What you've described is clutch "dragging" (edit: I see 'BkrK12' has mentioned) -- not slipping (the clutch isn't fully releasing). It may be oil related? It may be adjustment or clutch hydraulic operating system related?

It may even be warped clutch plates...?(not likely if it operates normally later)

Going to drain it today, back to dino rotella

Well, that certainly should be okay...?

Good luck.

 

[becoyote]

Well $30 worth of mobil 1 is in a bucket. Hope the dragging was just related to it being pretty cold on start up.

Going back to rotella, next time I need to take it out I will let it idle in nuetral for a while and warm up before putting it in gear and see if that helps.

I don't remember having this problem last winter. I'm used to just jumping on the GS and going.

 

[Fred W]

That's not slipping, that's dragging, and quite common when cold. Bleeding the clutch may help. You don't need to drain and refill oil.

+1

Also, if you have your clutch lever adjusted all the way in toward the handle bar, try moving it out a few clicks. Some folks have reported that cured their clutch dragging symptoms.

 

[Zorlac]

"okay it wasn't red top, it was mobil 1 full syn grey top 10w 30"

You have to stick with 40W oil viscosities to avoid the evil "energy conserving friction modifiers"!!!!

 

[becoyote]

That's not slipping, that's dragging, and quite common when cold. Bleeding the clutch may help. You don't need to drain and refill oil.

+1

Also, if you have your clutch lever adjusted all the way in toward the handle bar, try moving it out a few clicks. Some folks have reported that cured their clutch dragging symptoms.

I did have it adjusted all the way in. I moved it out a few clicks. I'll give it a shot after I put the new oil in.

The problem showed up right when I changed the oil and we had a real dip in temperature. I'm hoping it was just the cold temps which would make sense since the problem goes away after the engine temp comes up.

Thanks for all the replies so far. I'll report after I can get out for new oil.

 

[becoyote]

"okay it wasn't red top, it was mobil 1 full syn grey top 10w 30"

You have to stick with 40W oil viscosities to avoid the evil "energy conserving friction modifiers"!!!!

Love homer, hate oil. Is that the 40w just in Mobil1?