Crunch!

[jammess]

Went for a great ride down the coast last Sunday after an odd beginning. I pushed the bike out of the garage and started it up letting it idle while I put on my gear. The bike idled for maybe 5 minutes before I mounted up. I pulled in the clutch and attempted to shift into first which resulted in a very loud CRUNCH type sound with the trans not dropping into first gear. I immediately hauled in the clutch lever and let the bike idle a few seconds before attempting again to select first gear. This time the trans smoothly dropped into first and away I went. The ride was about 120 miles and all was well with no further problems of any kind.

I guess I'm paranoid but I can't help but wonder what could have caused this reaction to attempting a shift from neutral to first? The bike has low miles for a '10 model at only 4400 miles.

 

[RossKean]

Try a search using the terms ( +shift +clunk ) or kerchunk

Don't be offended by immediate transfer to NEPRT but this has been around since Day One.

 

[Birdman2010]

@jammess: I'm glad that you asked this question! I have a 2015 and I sometimes get the loud clunk! I thought that I was getting that noise because the bike is almost brand new (hold-over -- bought it in September). I'm glad that RossKean explained that this is a common issue and how to search for the solution! I will now hold the clutch for a few seconds before I drop from neutral to first gear based on this thread:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/164316-clutch-acting-up-a-little

 

[Brodie]

Always park the bike in first gear. When you start first start it up just pull in the clutch, then drive away shortly after the bike fires up. No need to 'warm it up'. If you have oil pressure, go ride. Take it easy for the first mile or two, but enjoy!

Brodie

 

[jammess]

The thing that bothered me was not the typical clunk when shifting into first which I know most FJR's do but this time it wouldn't go into gear at all and produced a kind of loud grinding noise. It has only done this the once. My theory is that the oil was still cool and the bike hadn't been ridden for a few days so the clutch disks were probably stuck together. I read somewhere that it is a good idea to de-clutch and blip the throttle a couple times before going into first so I'll try that. The term "clunk" doesn't describe the sound as it was more like a grinding kind of hammering sound which I never heard the bike make before.

This winter I disassembled the clutch pack and cleaned the friction disks with kerosene and soaked them in fresh motor oil and shifting did become quieter and the typical clunk into first was almost gone especially if I hesitated just a second or two before selecting first.

Hope this explains my post a little better.

 

[jammess]

Hi birdman, my neighbor has a 2015 and his bike always clunks when going into first. If you hold the clutch in and wait a couple seconds the clunk will most likely be gone.

You want a noisy transmission find yourself an early BMW oilhead with the original M93 transmission and you will think you got yourself a John Deer tractor instead of a motorcycle. I know because I have one. You will, if nothing else, appreciate your FJR trans. Ahhh...but it does have character.

Hi Fred

 

[Pterodactyl]

I generally start the bike in neutral. Pull in the clutch, rev engine to around 2500 RPM, release clutch, pull in clutch and engage 1st gear. No clunk.

 

[kenporider]

It seems to me that the sound being described is more of a grinding gears sound than the typical clunk into first. I'd speculate that the clutch didn't properly disengage for whatever reason. I wouldn't worry about it unless it continues happening.

 

[Fred W]

There are no gears engaging to grind. When you shift a motorcycle transmission you are engaging the dogs on the side of the gears, not the gear teeth. What had to have been making noise was the ends of the dogs hitting each other as the input shaft was still spinning and the output shaft was stationary.

On my '05 it always kerchunked going into 1st gear from neutral, even after disassembling the clutch and oiling all the friction plates. On my '14 it usually doesn't even on the first cold shift, unless I really rush it. And that is both before and after I upgraded to the 2016 slipper clutch internals. My guess is that there was a bit more clutch drag on the '05 when disengaged for some reason, keeping the output side of the clutch spinning at engine speed with the clutch disengaged.

As for the OP's experience, you may have been a bit too tentative with your shift. Be decisive and snap it into gear and you shouldn't experience the grinding noise, just the kerchunk.

 

[RossKean]

^^^

Agree on the decisive shift. Also holding the clutch in for 3-4 seconds before that first shift will help.

We will assume (for now) that your clutch is OK. There is always a possibility that you have an air bubble in the system and it did not engage properly. I would think that you would feel this in the lever but perhaps not. In any case, a clutch bleed might not be a bad idea. Kerchunk (or even clunk) are normal but shouldn't get a grind.

 

[roger dodger]

Upshift to second instead... this bike has plenty of grunt!

 

[jammess]

I generally start the bike in neutral. Pull in the clutch, rev engine to around 2500 RPM, release clutch, pull in clutch and engage 1st gear. No clunk.

I think I will adopt this method. Alan (ionbeam) sent me a PM that explains the inner workings of a motorcycle trans that supports your procedure. Don't know if it's necessary to rev the engine. Transmissions and how they operate are a bit beyond my pay grade.

Hi Fred, the slipper clutch seems like a worthwhile mod especially if one rides in stop and go traffic a lot. Does cost a bit more than the OEM clutch.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[Fred W]

I'd modify that anti-kerchunking procedure by one step:

1) Pull in clutch lever.

2) Blip the throttle to rev engine.

3) Continue to hold the clutch in while engine speed settles back to idle, and maybe a few seconds more.

4) Then shift into gear.

5) Snick!

The output side of the clutch is directly connected to the input shaft of the transmission. The idea of blipping the throttle with the clutch disengaged (lever pulled in) is to break the fiber clutch drive plates free of the inner metal driven plates. If you release the clutch lever after blipping you will just re-spin the input shaft that you just broke free.

The slipper clutch mod will cost you about $300 in parts and an afternoon of your time. I've spent more (of both) for less.

 

[jammess]

Hi Fred, went to garage and tried it and success! Thanks again.

 

[art miller]

Always park the bike in first gear. When you start first start it up just pull in the clutch, then drive away shortly after the bike fires up. No need to 'warm it up'. If you have oil pressure, go ride. Take it easy for the first mile or two, but enjoy!
Brodie

Brodie is correct. I generally start my bike in first gear and ride away after a short idle period. Be careful if the bike has been sitting for an extended time as it may lunge forward a bit when you start it in gear with the clutch pulled.

 

[art miller]

I generally start the bike in neutral. Pull in the clutch, rev engine to around 2500 RPM, release clutch, pull in clutch and engage 1st gear. No clunk.

That's an idea!! I'll try that.

 

[Birdman2010]

So, here is the big question. Is this issue eliminated with the new transmission (2016+)?

 

[RossKean]

Don't know if I would call it an "Issue" - implies something wrong or a problem. Never heard of "kerchunk" being a precursor to failure or heard of any resulting damage. It's sort of neat to hear a dozen or more FJRs shifting into first gear in a parking lot at the start of a group ride. A fusillade of kerchunking.

Call it character, behavior, or even idiosyncrasy.

 

[cl12000]

Nope I get the clunk in first and third going up or down on my 2016 ES with 900 miles. My solution is ear plugs and my sena20s.