current capacity of key switch??

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timalan

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I am going to put a switch somewhere on my bike to bypass the ever failing "real" Key switch. I don't have my manual with me so I was curious. Does anyone know off hand if the switch runs a relay for powering the entire bike or is the main switch handles that on its own. I am about to go on a major trip and refuse to be stranded by Yamaha product failure. I really need just to know how much current the Ignition switch handles.

Any help or dogpile on monday would be fine.

Thanks

Tim

 
Wire cutters, two wire nuts, cheap'*** 30 amp switch, two wire lugs to hook wire to switch, good electrical tape & plastic tie straps. Two wire nuts because you might be on some windy road in the middle of nowhere & just want to hook the two small wires together & then the two big wires together & get to a better place to do the switch.

 
so there are 4 wires to switch? Red from main fuse one that goes to ABS and fuel injection fuse. one to ECU and 1 to front wire harness coupler.

does the one red coming in power all three of the other wires or is there a trick. I just want to put a switch in series before I have to fix it on the road with wire nuts and junk... possibly in the dark in the middle of the desert. Thanks for anymore help

Tim

 
Tim, I left the two small wires wire nutted together and wired the brown & red into a switch. Have about 1800 miles on this setup because Mr. Yamaha has the new switch on back order until the 30th which means, with the 4th of July weekend, about July 8th before I get the switch. This really is easy to do on the road but I have not tested in a hard rain storm.

Dave

 
Nobody has yet made an acutal current measurement for the flow through the ignition switch. Looking at the wiring diagram for a Gen I (plus Gen II less AE) it looks like there is a constant 250 - 300 watt power flow through the ignition switch, which is an average of 20 to 25 amps or more through the ignition switch.

 
Tim, I left the two small wires wire nutted together and wired the brown & red into a switch. Have about 1800 miles on this setup because Mr. Yamaha has the new switch on back order until the 30th which means, with the 4th of July weekend, about July 8th before I get the switch. This really is easy to do on the road but I have not tested in a hard rain storm.
Dave
Thanks Dave,

I got out my super high power birth control seein goggles on last night (it is hell gettin old and blind) Then I could see the connections on the schematic. They were invisible to me with just my glasses on. thanks for the help. Some of you have seen me wearing these goggles! :alien: :glasses-smiley02:

 
Some of you have seen me wearing these goggles! :alien: :glasses-smiley02:

Yes I have and there quite impressive I must say. :lol:

 
Yes I have and there quite impressive I must say. :lol:

Yes, there was the time I came out of the restroom... goggles still on.... Jokes abound.

And the time I still had them on when I got home. Went to the bank on the way. Wife says, "ooooo Baby" when I got home with them still on. :angry2:

 
:rolleyes: You didn't, by chance, have tape around the nose piece, didja? :unsure:
Nope this thing seriously straps onto my head.... not just mear glasses. This may lead to a "picture of you at work" thread. probably been done right?

 
25 amps, huh...........ok.................. :rolleyes:
Here are the electrical items that I included for a Gen I:

Ignition coils, primary side current

Headlights

Front running lights (turn signal lights)

Rear brake lights

Fuel sending unit

Not included are the various sensors; ECU; relays and misc. lighting. The radiator fan, battery charging, starter and backup circuit (odometer, clock & windshield) do not route through the ignition switch.

I've already looked up the watts and resistances to come up with my current range of 20 to 25 amps. It's your turn to do some work and show how this is wrong.

There is no ignition relay, all the items I listed (with the exceptions) go through the ignition switch.

so there are 4 wires to switch? Red from main fuse one that goes to ABS and fuel injection fuse. one to ECU and 1 to front wire harness coupler.
does the one red coming in power all three of the other wires or is there a trick. I just want to put a switch in series before I have to fix it on the road with wire nuts and junk... possibly in the dark in the middle of the desert. Thanks for anymore help

Tim
Here is one post about ignition wiring. There is a post on how to essentially hot wire your bike with an external ignition switch someplace, time to search.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
25 amps, huh...........ok.................. :rolleyes:
Here are the electrical items that I included for a Gen I:

Ignition coils, primary side current

Headlights

Front running lights (turn signal lights)

Rear brake lights

Fuel sending unit

Not included are the various sensors; ECU; relays and misc. lighting. The radiator fan, battery charging, starter and backup circuit (odometer, clock & windshield) do not route through the ignition switch.

I've already looked up the watts and resistances to come up with my current range of 20 to 25 amps. It's your turn to do some work and show how this is wrong.

There is no ignition relay, all the items I listed (with the exceptions) go through the ignition switch.

so there are 4 wires to switch? Red from main fuse one that goes to ABS and fuel injection fuse. one to ECU and 1 to front wire harness coupler.
does the one red coming in power all three of the other wires or is there a trick. I just want to put a switch in series before I have to fix it on the road with wire nuts and junk... possibly in the dark in the middle of the desert. Thanks for anymore help

Tim
Here is one post about ignition wiring. There is a post on how to essentially hot wire your bike with an external ignition switch someplace, time to search.
no need to search I just needed nerd headset on.

 
Timalan, come see me. :rolleyes:
If you rebuild Eyes I just might come see you. mine suck. Mind you I've been staring at 0-80 screws and tiny little electrical brushes and sliprings for over twenty years. trying to get the tiny little brush lined up in the middle of the tiny little gold rings.

 
Alan, Odot just bein' Odot. Let it go. Excellent technical info on the switch, more than I can understand, but sounds impressive and accurate. So, do you think that a relay would be the answer, and if so, would you be creating one? Just make sure it's rattle proof! Hope you get THAT mess straightened out soon!

 
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