damaged paint with polishing compound

[oldryder]

Got an '05 blue. had a couple light scratches from the tank bag. tried a polishing compound that was supposedly "safe for all finishes" and now I got a large dull area (and it didn't even remove the scratches!)

suggestions anyone?

 

[SkooterG]

suggestions anyone?

Don't use that, or any **** like it ever again!

 

[garauld]

Get some #2 plastic polish.

 

[wfooshee]

Scratches don't get polished out, unless the paint is real thick and you can remove enough paint by polishing to get down to the bottom of the scratch without actually getting to the primer or the metal. Then it has to be clearcoated, bcause that's the first thing that comes off when you start polishing. That's part of why it's dull.

Live with the scratches.

 

[user 6393]

suggestions anyone?

Don't use that, or any **** like it ever again!

You level of assistance is again, astounding!

Keep up the great work!

 

[gearman]

I've had some degree of success removing...uh, make that diminishing...fine scratches using Kit™ Scratch Out®. Smells like banana.

 

[VanHarlan]

Adam's Polish and Adams Swirl & Haze . I detail cars for family & friends and have used Adam's exclusively for years. Never damaged a surface yet.

https://www.adamspolishes.com/p-97-adams-sw...car-polish.aspx

https://www.adamspolishes.com/p-87-adams-re...ner-polish.aspx

 

[Leskid]

the dull spot is normal but you're not finished yet (unless you've already burned past the clearcoat). I learned this lesson on my Goldwing, last summer.

I would not try this myself but I have a buddy who does such things. He rides an '82 katana 750 that looks like it just rolled out of the showroom btw.

One time, he ASSURED me that he would be able to safely bring to a high gloss, some dull spots on my Goldwing. As he wet-sanded (and I watched, shitting my pants) he explained that you need to liberally chew-up the clearcoat, being careful not to 'overshoot' and go right down to the actual paint underneath. When he finished, I did **** my pants, as there was a great big oval dull-spot. Then, he took-out a cloth & finishing compound (which is basically a liquid extremely fine grit abrasive) and when he was finished, it was the nicest spot on the bike.

So I'm hoping that's where you're at and you didn't go to town to the point where you've actually dulled-up the paint underneath.

As I said, after watching my buddy, I wouldn't recommend cutting your teeth on your main ride but the dull spot (in my case) just meant that the 'finishing' wasn't done yet.

Good luck. Post a pic!

 

[CRMH Eagle]

Meguiar's Scratch X.

I've used it with much success on scratches and where the bike cover has dulled the paint. FYI - it's for sale. I've used Scratch X all over the bike and never had a problem with it ruining the paint. In fact it helps clean the paint and prep it for polishing and waxing (all Meguiars's stuff). If need more detail just pm me.

 

[Vesparado]

After my dealer took my panels off and ****** the paint up in the process I used that Meguiar's PlastX as well as 3M rubbing compound. I worked slowly and the scratches came out, but they weren't that deep and it wasn't on any metal. Good luck.

 

[johnny80s]

Had a friend do the same thing to my bike with rubbing and polishing compound. I took it in the the local body shop and they wet sanded my tank.

 

[jjsC6]

the dull spot is normal but you're not finished yet (unless you've already burned past the clearcoat). I learned this lesson on my Goldwing, last summer.
I would not try this myself but I have a buddy who does such things. He rides an '82 katana 750 that looks like it just rolled out of the showroom btw.

One time, he ASSURED me that he would be able to safely bring to a high gloss, some dull spots on my Goldwing. As he wet-sanded (and I watched, shitting my pants) he explained that you need to liberally chew-up the clearcoat, being careful not to 'overshoot' and go right down to the actual paint underneath. When he finished, I did **** my pants, as there was a great big oval dull-spot. Then, he took-out a cloth & finishing compound (which is basically a liquid extremely fine grit abrasive) and when he was finished, it was the nicest spot on the bike.

So I'm hoping that's where you're at and you didn't go to town to the point where you've actually dulled-up the paint underneath.

As I said, after watching my buddy, I wouldn't recommend cutting your teeth on your main ride but the dull spot (in my case) just meant that the 'finishing' wasn't done yet.

Good luck. Post a pic!

Exactly right! I've learned from a couple of guys who build and paint world class hot-rods. That's how they wind up with such a great finish. They are really good painters, but it's what they do after they paint it that makes it come alive.

 

[FLOWBACK]

Get some #2 plastic polish.

+1

 

[Bluebullet]

the dull spot is normal but you're not finished yet (unless you've already burned past the clearcoat). I learned this lesson on my Goldwing, last summer.
I would not try this myself but I have a buddy who does such things. He rides an '82 katana 750 that looks like it just rolled out of the showroom btw.

One time, he ASSURED me that he would be able to safely bring to a high gloss, some dull spots on my Goldwing. As he wet-sanded (and I watched, shitting my pants) he explained that you need to liberally chew-up the clearcoat, being careful not to 'overshoot' and go right down to the actual paint underneath. When he finished, I did **** my pants, as there was a great big oval dull-spot. Then, he took-out a cloth & finishing compound (which is basically a liquid extremely fine grit abrasive) and when he was finished, it was the nicest spot on the bike.

So I'm hoping that's where you're at and you didn't go to town to the point where you've actually dulled-up the paint underneath.

As I said, after watching my buddy, I wouldn't recommend cutting your teeth on your main ride but the dull spot (in my case) just meant that the 'finishing' wasn't done yet.

Good luck. Post a pic!

Sounds like the above is true. You were using a coarse compound and it fogged the clearcoat. You really can't remove scratches with compound very easily. Usually they are sanded out with 1500 grit wet sandpaper and then buffed out with compound. If and ONLY if the scratches are WHITE ALL THE WAY TO THE BOTTOM OF THE SCRATCH can they be removed by polishing. If you cut through the clearcoat on a metal flake finish like on the 05 the entire tank will have to be repainted to make it look perfect again. If you did NOT cut through the clear then it can be prepped by sanding an area with 1500 and then spotted in with clear to fill the scratch up a bit. Then after the clear dries you resand the area until the scratch is not visible and buff in the new clear to match the old. If you post a pic I can help you more. The best materials to do the job you can buy at NAPA, I prefer the 3M PerfectIt 3000 rubbing compound and the 3M hookit 1500 and 3000 grit finishing disks. They are a bit salty but nothing I have found works better. If you want to ride to my house I will fix it for you.

Nate

 

[Leskid]

off-topic

when you know what you're doing (I don't) with that stuff, my buddy with the '82 katana also uses the fine grit finishing compound on plastic, like tail lights, headlight lenses etc... EG: he burned-down through the red tail-light plastic and kept-on going to the point where all the embossed lettering & crap are literally GONE and it's an ultra-smooth finish. (obviously, he used varying grits of compound for the rough chewing, through to the fine polishing.

I can't help but think that on a higher mileage FJR, someone who knows what they're doing could effectively restore the factory shine & gloss on the battle-scarred & faded headlights. But again... yeeeeesh, talk about scary if you don't know what you're doing.

 

[Texan]

Very helpful topic. I always stopped at 2000 wet paper, but need to get some of that 3000 polishing compound. Question: Can the 3000 compound be worked by hand? Or does it require a buffer?

 

[Bluebullet]

Very helpful topic. I always stopped at 2000 wet paper, but need to get some of that 3000 polishing compound. Question: Can the 3000 compound be worked by hand? Or does it require a buffer?

It works just fine by hand, it just takes longer to get an even appearance.

 

[Moon Man]

Just go to the autopia forum. (google it) They will help you. I don't mean to throw any stones but I did professional detailing for over 5 years and no one here has told the whole story yet.

This sucks doubly as i was in Annandale, MN at the lake place last week, back in MI now. IO would have been happy to help you gratis.

If it's just that one little area any local detailer should take care of it for around 20-30 bucks if you bring it to them. There is a guy off CO road 2 in south haven that does good work IIRC.

You just probably need a DA polish with a soft pad. I doubt you need a rotary correction just yet. My dad polished his bonneville to a haze, one change of pad and polish and it was gleaming.

If there is enough interest I would be happy to post up a how to polish article. There are some small differences in methods from bikes to cars.

 

[Intech]

I've had some degree of success removing...uh, make that diminishing...fine scratches using Kit™ Scratch Out®. Smells like banana.

I prefer mango