Damn, something else to fix!

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Update: parts got here last week, couldn't get to it for one reason or another, so today I finally tore the forks down.

Amazingly enough, the one with the good seal had a LOT more oil in it. How odd! :D

Another strange discovery is that a leaky seal apparently goes both ways; the inside of that fork was NASTY!!!!! There was grit on the spring, and I had to build a rod contraption to run through the tubes to get grit off the tube walls. Still working on the bottom of the outer tube.... I was hoping to be done with this by this time today, but this extra careful cleaning is interfering with my carefully laid out schedule! :angry:

I had another delay when one of the damper bolts refused to break loose. My air at home is pretty low capacity, only a 5-gallon tank, so the impact wrench would run 5 or 10 seconds before there was no air, then I'd wait a couple minutes for the compressor, kick for 5 or 10 seconds, repeat. I ended up running the fork over to my ex-bro-in-law's house (still best friends, and have been since junior high, so a little thing of his sister divorcing me is no big deal) to use his big tank. Still took nearly ten minutes of good hammering before it came loose, but loosen it did.

So here it is about 90 minutes from sundown, and I've just gotten both forks broken down and started cleaning. No ridin' today! Tomorrow might be iffy, too, depending on how I feel about getting that one set clean enough. :glare:

Here's the bad oil seal:

DSC_4634.jpg


I have a question, too, which comes from never having personally been in a bike fork before. (I've changed oil, but not pulled the tubes apart.) The washer that goes in under the oil seal comes flat. The ones that came out of my forks are coned. Is that from the hammering to separate the fork tubes, or is something else going on? Also, the one from the right tube (bad seal) is bent, but I think that was from not being real careful separating the tubes. The seal cocked a bit instead of coming out straight.

DSC_4636.jpg


DSC_4635.jpg


 
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At the tech day years ago at Desert valley the tech said to fletten them out and reuse them. The same tech also broke Warchilds forks with an impact while telling us the bolt needed to be real tight. The look on Dales face was one of those priceless moments. :lol:

 
Yeah, I've got new parts (many thanks to TomInCA earlier making sure my list was complete) so I wasn't really worried about the washers themselves. It just surprised me, knowing they were flat when they went it.

Didn't someone bust a damper rod or the bolt at Bust-a-Nut's tech day recently doing that?

 
Damn, Walt, yer givin' Gen I's a bad name with all these problems yer havin'....

But then again, guess who's startin' to have the infamous "FJR HOT START" problem?

Just finished a 2 hour ride, stopped at a ****-N-Git for a carton of smokes and "urrrr...." clock and trip-meter reset. :angry2: :angry2: :angry2:

Second try on the starter and it kicked right off. You'd think after 2 hours of riding around 4000 rpm, it'd have a good charge...battery's 3 years old...but NOOOOOOO...it's gotta be difficult! :angry2: :angry2: :angry2:

Think I might try one of those Shorai POS jobs.

Damn murdersickles, anyway!!!

 
I'd rather have these problems than the ones "some people" have had . . . . :eek:

Speaking of stupid . . . .

It seems I took no notice of which side of the oil seal was up or down as I removed them, and now I'm down to guessing. Someone help a brother out??

In check-fitting the old ones into the top of the bottom fork tubes, they fit one way much better than the other, and I'm going with that until someone says different. That would make the one pictured above showing the side facing down as it's installed into the tube.

OK, end of stupid **** for me this year. ;)

 
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Bike is reassembled, still several hours of daylight left. Yay!!!!

Time for some noon fat cake and a "test ride."

Bike was actually done by 10:00, but cleaning the grease off of the wheel and the brakes required some TLC.

 
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Fortunately my recently leaking fork seal was fixed by that little seal-mate doohickey. What a great $6 investment!

Glad to hear you got the forks all squared away Walt.

 
Those washers look like what came out of mine. I do a lot of goat-trail riding, and I think the washers get hammered leading to seal failure. It could be the removal, but pretty much all the replacement internals in my forks were toast, washers, seals, slides etc. Springs were still in spec and once everything went back together, the bike handled better than new.

Once a seal blows out, I think getting it to reseal using a piece of plastic is a temporary measure. So much contamination seems to be in the tubes at that point, you can't believe the crap that is there until you tear them down.

 
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It was the lower valve on geeks bike Walt.. Apparently King Kong was the last fella to work on it as the bolt took 3 foot of pipe on the allen wrench to "bust"it loose.. :blink:

 
Once a seal blows out, I think getting it to reseal using a piece of plastic is a temporary measure. So much contamination seems to be in the tubes at that point, you can't believe the crap that is there until you tear them down.
Going to disagree. I don't think my seal 'blew out'. I think there was debris there that let a *small* amount of fork fluid out in my case. The Seal Mate fixed it right up. And my fork fluid has always been extremely nasty during a service. Even with seals that were still good. That's the teflon wearing off the bushings.

 
My tube with the failed seal had sand in it, grit all up and down the sides of the tubes and all over the spring. Took forever to get the tubes cleaned to where I was happy with it.

I still haven't seen anything about "right-side-up" on the oil seals. Is there a right way, does it matter? They're not symmetrical, so I assume one side is top, but I see nothing telling me which. No markings, no nothin'.

What I did was see that the old ones had a very slight "cone" on them, and they would go partway in the tube one way but not the other, and I used that as my up/down reference, because I was too stupid to note the orientation (not even realizing there was an orientation) when I took the old ones out.

Bike's back together, so if they're wrong, then they're wrong. It would be nice to know, though. :)

It was the lower valve on geeks bike Walt.. Apparently King Kong was the last fella to work on it as the bolt took 3 foot of pipe on the allen wrench to "bust"it loose.. :blink:
Like I said before, one of mine popped right off, the other took ten or fifteen minutes of hammering with the air wrench, in between waiting for the air tank to repressurize, before it came loose.

 
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Ok I'll try and set ya straight Walt :unsure: If you look at the seal there is a valley, for lack of a better werd, between the inner and outer wall The Vee or tapered valley faces up when installed correctly The bottom side is squared off, wider and deeper.

Damnit!! All that thinkin gave me a headache :dribble:

 
That's how I have them. Thanks for confirming. The wide part sits on the washer.

As for setting me straight, I've been straight me whole life, and anybody says different is just tryin' to start trouble.

I was even straight when I played flute and piccolo in marching band! Hey, not much to carry around, and have you seen some o' them flute players???!?!?!

 
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Well, my new seals . . . . don't.

Both tubes are weeping a bit, leaving a bit of oil on the top of the dust seal, and the exposed tube is oily. It's not spraying or anything, or coating other parts of the bike, just a little bit showing up there. I'll get pics later, I guess, but . . . . What do I do? Rip 'em apart again already?

 
****! ****!

Damn Walt, if they don't stop, doing it over again is the only option that I can think of. Wonder why they are leaking. I am not familiar with the procedure. How easy is it to damage new seals while installing them?

And/or, I would be looking REALLY close at the fork tubes. You need to be sure they don't have any problems which are damaging your seals.

 
It's gotta be something I did, and did wrong, because when I started I had one blown (literally spraying oil) and the other was fine. Did both forks, now both weep.

Seals could be damaged when you put them over the end of the tube, shop manual says to put a plastic bag (sandwich bag type) over the end of the tube to keep the edge from digging at the seal. "Real" shops have a bullet they put over the tube end to slide the seal over.

Weeping in and of itself might not be too bad for a short time, but the exposed tube gets oily, which collects dust and dirt, which rubs the seal, which . . . . so I can't leave it and hope it seats.

I'm riding, but only to work and back, but I'm going to Sebring next month for the 12 Hours, and I'd like to have it resolved before a 900-mile round trip.

First I'm going to try the plastic tool thingie and just see if somehow gunk just got jammed in there. Easy enough to try before tearing down again.

 
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