Datel and Passport spliced wiring

[Yambone]

I'm an electrical dumbass so welcome any opinions or flames. Better than flames coming out of my wiring!

Since I had an unused switched power source from my disabled auto-windshield retract, I've used that to power my Passport 8500 detector. In addition, I spliced in my Datel voltmeter to the detector. I put the Datel positive line splice between the detector fuse and the (switched) positive lead from the windshield. I spliced the negative from the Datel to the neg wire from the detector and that goes directly to the batt neg terminal.

Even though I'm wired to the same source, I get consistently lower reading on the Datel than the Passport, which also has a voltmeter function. At operating speed, with no other electrics on, the Datel reads 12.7 and the Passport reads 13.2.

With engine off, ig switch on, Datel reads 11.1 and Passport 11.5. (I understand the overall numbers are lower because of resistance in the wiring and other smoke and mirrors.) The battery itself reads 12.8 at my tender lead which is unswitched direct to battery.

So do you think I have a low-reading Datel? Or does my mickey-mouse wiring have something to do with this?

Second question, related to flames. Is the Datel, spliced in between the detector fuse, sufficiently protected? (Told you I was an e-dumbass.)

 

[SkooterG]

Datel is the accurrate voltmeter. Passport isn't necessarily. That's why I eventually installed a Datel. Which always reads lower than my Passport.

Don't believe me? Go by a cheap DVM (Digital Voltmeter) from Ratshack and use it to see the Datel is the accurate voltmeter.

What you SHOULD have done, was wire the Datel right to the battery for the most accurate reading.

 

[SkooterG]

Ok, I read your entire post......

Even though I'm wired to the same source, I get consistently lower reading on the Datel than the Passport, which also has a voltmeter function. At operating speed, with no other electrics on, the Datel reads 12.7 and the Passport reads 13.2.

Something is definitely wrong here. BOTH those readings are too low. Either your stator is going kaput, some other electrical system component is going bad (like R/R), or your wiring job is not getting an accurate reading (most likely).

With engine off, ig switch on, Datel reads 11.1 and Passport 11.5. (I understand the overall numbers are lower because of resistance in the wiring and other smoke and mirrors.) The battery itself reads 12.8 at my tender lead which is unswitched direct to battery.

My Datel reads 13.0V - 13.2V or so with ignition off, 12.8V-13.0V with ignition on which is right on the money. So your tender lead reading is accurate. WIRE THE DATEL DIRECT TO THE BATTERY!!!! What's the use of having the thing if it's not going to give you information that's worth a shit?

As for the fuse - fuses protect wiring, not the device. I don't even have my Datel fused, which I am not necessarily recommending. Still, remember to locate a fuse to best protect the WIRING, not the device.

 

[wfooshee]

Still, remember to locate a fuse to best protect the WIRING, not the device.

That means as close as possible to the battery. It would truly suck to have a hot wire get cut somehow between the battery and the fuse, and burn your bike to the ground.

 

[Yambone]

Thanks for the input. Will do some re-wiring and see if I can get it right this time.

 

[S76]

I feel your pain. I just went through the same ordeal.

Datel was reading very low as I had it wired into some circuit on the bike, don't rmember what. But my DVM read higher when attached right to the Datel screws. So I ordered a new Datel thinking it was off. The new one was no better and I ended taking all the items to work to be tested against a calibrated unit. It was the DVM that was wrong. Both the new and old Datel were spot on. But that did not correct all of the problem. I ended up wiring the Datel to a relay RIGHT next to the battery. This was a big improvement, but voltages were still a tad low. It was running about 13.2 at speed and this was verified by a good DVM at the battery.

I ended up changing the stator and RR. My voltage now is 13.9 to 14.0 at speed. I'm happy with that and it only costed me about $600. !!!

The original stator at 50K miles measured good by doing all the electrical tests, but it was showing signs of distress in the form of turning brown in the typical area they do. I suspect the RR was off a little however it also passed the elecrical tests.

 

[Lee-N-Reno]

I'm almost in the same boat. except mine is that I used the SWITCH grip warmers running alittle more then 0.7 volts lower then the battery, I'm assuming it has a diode drop or something close to it. Wasn't to sure if the wires and or components could handle the current I used the switched power ( on after the engine starts ) to power a 30 amp relay, being fed by a 15 amp fuse straight to the battery for a power bus for all the other goodies in the future. After checking voltage was the same as the battery at the bus.

 

[Yambone]

Life is now pretty good. Datel wired direct to battery getting 13.0V with engine off, and 14.2V engine running around town yesterday. Thus glad I don't appear to have a stator issue. And the Datel is spot on, as Skooter knew it would be. I did put in a 3-amp fuse just for grins, had one laying around.

Will install a toggle switch option at some point after reading through various posts advocating 3 ways to wire the Datel: "always on" direct to battery, use of a toggle switch, or using a relay. Thanks to all that have posted these solutions and their observations.

 

[SkooterG]

Glad you got it sorted out, and that your electrical system is in top shape.

My 200k FJR is only showing 13.9V, while my low mile 25k FJR is showing 14.1V-14.2V. So I think the high mile FJR's stator is starting to show the first signs of degrading output.