Disabling stock highbeams?

[Justin]

Posting this as a sanity check in case I'm about to do something stupid (which would not be a first

).

Currently, I run Phillips extreme halogens in the stock housing since I've heard that the HID upgrade really is not great with the FJR headlight (for highs at least). I also run a set of 3600 lumen LED floods (2.4 Amps each) and a set of 1500 lumen LED spots (.85 amp each).

Here's my plan:

I want to replace my 1500 lumen spots with new 3600 lumen spots. However, those draw 2.4 amps as opposed to .85 amps, and will tax my available electrical juice. Since, the high beams on the FJR suck, my plan is to simply unplug the highbeam portion of stock headlight connector, so that when I switch the LEDs on (relayed from the highbeam relay) the main headlights turn off. That will theoretically free up 110 watts of juice.

Is there anything I am not thinking of here that could be bad? Or, is there an easier way to disable the highbeams? With 14,400 lumens of LED lighting, the stock highbeams are kinda pointless.

 

[Ignacio]

Is there anything I am not thinking of here that could be bad? Or, is there an easier way to disable the highbeams? With 14,400 lumens of LED lighting, the stock highbeams are kinda pointless.

The only thing I can think of is if there's a case where you want higher beams than low, but not the gnarly aux. lights. Is there a case where you might wanna illuminate something in an urban setting (e.g. a house at 3 a.m.), but not have to worry about getting a ticket for spewing 13,000 too many lumens into what you learn shortly after is the police chief's house that's 3 doors down?

I've considered disabling one of the two high beams before as even 55 watts would be nice to have.

 

[Justin]

Is there anything I am not thinking of here that could be bad? Or, is there an easier way to disable the highbeams? With 14,400 lumens of LED lighting, the stock highbeams are kinda pointless.

The only thing I can think of is if there's a case where you want higher beams than low, but not the gnarly aux. lights. Is there a case where you might wanna illuminate something in an urban setting (e.g. a house at 3 a.m.), but not have to worry about getting a ticket for spewing 13,000 too many lumens into what you learn shortly after is the police chief's house that's 3 doors down?

I don't think that will be an issue. Currently my aux goes to 100% with highbeams and I've never had a case where I turned them off with the highs due to too much light.

 

[Ignacio]

Currently my aux goes to 100% with highbeams and I've never had a case where I turned them off with the highs due to too much light.

Then I say go forth and spew lumens efficiently by disabling those dull yellowish archaic filaments that rob precious watts. Use the electrons to warm your soul via electric vest instead.

 

[Justin]

Then I say go forth and spew lumens efficiently by disabling those dull yellowish archaic filaments that rob precious watts. Use the electrons to warm your soul via electric vest instead.

I will let you know how those new M64 spots work when I get them and test them.

 

[dcarver]

Eastern Beaver sells a harness to switch hi beams off. Have it on my Suzuki dl650.

 

[TomInPA]

For a standard halogen bulb, what would prevent you from severing the high beam wire to the H4 plug. Your LEDs could still use the wire as a trigger, but the power would not reach the bulb, and it would shut down in high-beam mode. You might want to keep enough wire on the plug to install a spade connector so you have the option to undo the mod.

 

[Justin]

For a standard halogen bulb, what would prevent you from severing the high beam wire to the H4 plug.

That was pretty much my plan. Or pulling the pin from the highbeam portion of the plug. I have to look closer as I never dismantled an h4 plug before.

 

[900gc]

My only thought is passing state inspection laws.

Another thought would be to put a separate switch on the high beam circuit to manually turn them on i.e. to pass inspection or for times you wish you had even more light for short spurts.

 

[Bounce]

For a standard halogen bulb, what would prevent you from severing the high beam wire to the H4 plug.

other than ******* up your OEM wiring harness. farkles should be approached with reversibility in mind.

 

[Justin]

My only thought is passing state inspection laws.Another thought would be to put a separate switch on the high beam circuit to manually turn them on i.e. to pass inspection or for times you wish you had even more light for short spurts.

No state inspections here in CO

 

[Justin]

other than ******* up your OEM wiring harness. farkles should be approached with reversibility in mind.

Good point, I agree. And I have a plan to avoid cutting the stock wire.

 

[dcarver]

Now [you're] thinking!

 

[irish phil]

other than ******* up your OEM wiring harness. farkles should be approached with reversibility in mind.

Good point, I agree. And I have a plan to avoid cutting the stock wire.

Oh! I'm liking this. Still has possible switch options as well. So! Is this an original creation or can a mere mortal

purchase this wiring/plug/thingy/device?

--Phil - dreaming of efficient lumen spew

 

[Justin]

Phil - you can find them on Ebay, such as this:

https://compare.ebay.com/like/171030525586?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

Search for "h4 bulb socket male female" and you'll find more choices. I'm going to grab two of those and wire in a switch cut highbeam current.

 

[Justin]

Actually, the lights I'm replacing draw 24 watts at 13.8 volts, and the new ones will draw 66 watts at 13.8 volts. So, that will increase my usage by 42 watts. So, just disabling one highbeam will do the trick, as it will free up 60 watts.

FYI: If anyone else attempts this, here's the pin-out locations on the h4 bulb. Yellow wire on the factory plugs.

 

[dcarver]

Another idea. I run this and it works perfect.

 

[Justin]

Don - yup, saw that. I'm not going to pay $35 + shipping for a part I can make myself. I have wire, a draw full of electrical parts and switches, and a solder iron . I just need the h4 plug harness that costs $4 so I can just remove that if I ever want to revert.

 

[fljab]

I think the smarter answer is to be able to cut out one headlight. Either wire it yourself or buy the harness above.

This winter I'm planning to put both my headlights on a on/off switch - which basically will be cutting the trigger voltage to a relay.

YMMV..........