Dog bone bolts questions

[Touring bloke]

Hello I am replacing the dog bone links on a 2014 FJR1300A with shorter items. I wish to raise the rear ride height to hopefully make the bike turn in quicker.

I have searched the forum and indeed am using this thread as my main guide https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=117979 but am unsure about proceeding and since the only dumb question is the one not asked which causes a stuff up then I will ask what many may consider dumb questions.

The bike has been raised the same way as member Wicked Webby did in the above mentioned thread. That is the side stand down, front wheel chocked and a jack under the mid section exhaust to raise the rear wheel.

With reference the to photo below you may see I got to the point of having removed one of the links before stopping.


The bolts or pins perhaps might be better name seem very hard to remove. I am wondering what is going to happen if I tap one completely out the other side, i.e. what will shock and spring do once this is disconnected and what the rear wheel and swing arm will do as one of these is applying some force upon the link.

Referring to the next photo below the bolt appears to be a pin inside roller bearings perhaps, is this coming out correctly? do the bearings stay put when this is removed and since there seems to be a certain force being applied is there any thing I might damage if I simply tap them to come out with my current set up of the bike raised but the rear wheel is not supported by anything.

At the end of the same thread is a reply from member ULEWZ where he says to use the centre stand for this task and remove the the lower shock mount bolt/pin then rotate the shock mount down to access the lower dog bone bolts otherwise blocked by the centre stand. This sounds great but I cannot see how to remove the lower shock mount bolt on my 2104 model as with the centre stand down it would appear to block this. Am I missing something. This method would otherwise seem better as beside the stability which is lacking with the bike jacked up in the middle ULEWZ says use your jack to raise the rear wheel via the swingarm to relieve pressure from the links which I imagine would allow the pins to be removed more gently?

I actually put the original link back on and lowered the bike to the ground so my options are open to proceed either way but just to check am I going forward the right way on this or am I about to stuff something up.

Thanks.

 

[RaYzerman19]

Putting a piece of wood under the rear tire can serve as a pry tool to raise/lower the rear while you tap the bolts out. However, those suspension pivots need a good grease job as factory grease may not be sufficient. Could be cause for the bolts sticking. I'd suggest going further and removing the entire suspension pivot to give it a lube job. Note the front bolt will be the difficult one to remove if Mama Yama did not reverse the two center stand bolts that prevent you from removing the center stand. You might find this link useful.... https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/163399-pivot-maintenance-fjr-stand/page-2?hl=%2Bsuspension+%2Bpivot&do=findComment&comment=1235464

At minimum, while your dogbones are off, remove and lube the lower shock mount if you don't do the front pivot point.

To remove the center stand, you will have to suspend the rear of the bike.

 

[Touring bloke]

Putting a piece of wood under the rear tire can serve as a pry tool to raise/lower the rear while you tap the bolts out. However, those suspension pivots need a good grease job as factory grease may not be sufficient. Could be cause for the bolts sticking. I'd suggest going further and removing the entire suspension pivot to give it a lube job. Note the front bolt will be the difficult one to remove if Mama Yama did not reverse the two center stand bolts that prevent you from removing the center stand. You might find this link useful.... https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/163399-pivot-maintenance-fjr-stand/page-2?hl=%2Bsuspension+%2Bpivot&do=findComment&comment=1235464At minimum, while your dogbones are off, remove and lube the lower shock mount if you don't do the front pivot point.

To remove the center stand, you will have to suspend the rear of the bike.

Thanks I'll dig around try find something for under the rear tyre. I used my only bit of wood for the jack under the exhaust haha.

I am not able to suspend the whole rear of the bike. I'll be happy just to get these links on for now and see if they improve how the bike steers.

 

[DeSudet]

I hate to risk this turning into NEPRT fodder, but I assume you've already replaced the (reportedly) horrible stock tires and increased your front tire pressure to 39 psi(or as high as 42 depending on who you ask)? My '13 had the BT021 which I never had a problem with, but I seem to recall more than a few people complaining about the profile and handling of the BT023 Yamaha changed to late that year and has used ever since...

 

[Harald]

It's actually possible to remove the centerstand and then remove the relay arm assembly while the bike is on the sidestand. I've actually done it when I greased everything back there too long ago (I'm due for another clean and grease with over 100k on the bike now).

The trick is to break all nuts loose while the bike is very stable. After the centerstand is removed and the bike is resting on the sidestand, place a hydraulic floor jack under the rear of the engine and jack up until tension is removed off the rear shock. You can then remove the relay arm to clean and lube.

Once my life slows down a little, I plan on doing the lube again and plan on documenting it this time with photos.

 

[infrared]

Touring Bloke,

I realize that you are having fun with working tools right now, and I'm not usually one to intrude on a guy's fun. That said, here goes:

Just being curious,are you trying to change the high-speed handling, or the low-speed handling?

For your consideration, now I am driving on Michelin Pilot Road 2 tires. I can make the bike want to "stand up" in turns by adding a few more PSI (kPa?) to the front tire. I can release a little air pressure from the front tire to make the bike want to "dive in" to a turn. It does not take much change in the front tire pressure to get either result. Have you experimented with tire pressures?

If you need to levitate the bike, have you seen a Skyhook? It does not need to be much higher or wider than the bike, and you can use iron pipes as large in diameter as you see fit, to get the required strength for your work. You can also make the "feet" longer, if you wish. Rotate the "feet" parallel to the top pipe, for storage after work.

https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/frontstand.html

Cheers!

 

[RaYzerman19]

The other way of improving the turn in, is get a 190/55 rear tire. It changes things significantly, and raises the rear of the bike also. I'm on my second one, this time a PR4.

Alternate skyhook..... it has to safely lift about 400 lbs. Screw two eyehooks into your celing joists, make sure you're into solid wood, and use two tiedown straps or a rope hoist to lift the bike. Ideally, front wheel in a chock and a helper wouldn't hurt. I loosened the two offencing center stand bolts then cut them off with a battery powered recipro saw with metal blade. Have two new bolts ready for the reinstall and turned the opposite way, nut side outboard.

 

[Touring bloke]

Yes just to elaborate on what I have tried already and am looking for.

I am seeking to make the bike turn in to corners easier/quicker, with less effort.

I guess that's primarily for modest speed back road riding. If by chance I got it to hold a line better on the highway and not understeer that would be bonus.

First thing I have done towards this is look at tyre pressures. I run 42 now have tried as high as 44 and as low as 38.

Changed the ride height with front pre load to soft and rear preload to hard.

Changed tyres. Bridgestone BT23, Metzler Z8, and currently Angel GT.

Fitted the MV Motorrad bar risers.

Lastly lowered the front suspension (raised the forks in the triple clamps) first 10 mm. Now 25mm.

I will try a 55 profile rear next time but current tyres have long way to run yet so I got the dog bones from eBay to see what they might do.

Anyway if someone could advise on my original post question if getting the bolts out in the fashion I am thinking will be ok that would be great and I will proceed.

Thanks.

 

[SLK50]

Prop up the rear wheel to unload the suspension and those

bolts will slide right out.

To the point of this whole exercise, based on what you've done

already, if the bike still doesn't turn in fast enough

perhaps this is the wrong bike for you. It is heavily biased for

long-haul touring and a little heavy handed for fast technical rips.

 

[Touring bloke]

Prop up the rear wheel to unload the suspension and thosebolts will slide right out.

To the point of this whole exercise, based on what you've done

already, if the bike still doesn't turn in fast enough

perhaps this is the wrong bike for you. It is heavily biased for

long-haul touring and a little heavy handed for fast technical rips.

Thanks SLK50 I will do as you suggest.

And yes the FJR is probably not exactly right for me but I am trying to find a compromise.

I need to cover long highway distances to get to interesting roads and in this mode I love the FJR. However when I get into the tight roads I wish it was easier in the bends.

I am trying things from this direction to see how I go and if this never works then I guess I will re-evaluate in another year or so. Maybe try again from the other direction to build some of the FJR luxury into a smaller bike.

That is no easy task. I came from an adventure bike which even after fitting a bigger screen and hand guards and grip heaters was a poor long distance highway bike, particularly so in winter. The FJR's superb fairing, electric screen, electronic cruise, range and leg room offers a formidable comfort package.

 

[HaulinAshe]

Yes just to elaborate on what I have tried already and am looking for.I am seeking to make the bike turn in to corners easier/quicker, with less effort.

I guess that's primarily for modest speed back road riding. If by chance I got it to hold a line better on the highway and not understeer that would be bonus.

First thing I have done towards this is look at tyre pressures. I run 42 now have tried as high as 44 and as low as 38.

Changed the ride height with front pre load to soft and rear preload to hard.

Changed tyres. Bridgestone BT23, Metzler Z8, and currently Angel GT.

Fitted the MV Motorrad bar risers.

Lastly lowered the front suspension (raised the forks in the triple clamps) first 10 mm. Now 25mm.

I will try a 55 profile rear next time but current tyres have long way to run yet so I got the dog bones from eBay to see what they might do.

Anyway if someone could advise on my original post question if getting the bolts out in the fashion I am thinking will be ok that would be great and I will proceed.

Thanks.

Uhhhh, I'm never politically correct. Sorry!!!

How much do you weigh???

If my addition is close, you have lowered the front end by roughly 40mm total (25 in the triples, 15 on the adjusters) and you want MORE!!!???

The ass end of that bike must be sitting on the freakin shock bumper!? So you must weigh something like 350 lbs. and be running fully loaded. If that's the case, Dude! You need a rear shock.

The FJR geometry is within 5mm of being dead-on for almost everyone on the planet 175-250 lbs.