Eastern Beaver PC-8 Fuse Block

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Nice looking fuse block... but I'm leaning towards the "Fuzeblock". Anyone had issues with the integrated relay on the Fuzeblock? I can't say that I've ever had to change a relay on any vehicle I've ever owned so it doesn't seem like an issue to me. Maybe it's just my ignorance of the finer points of electrical stuff but I'm not sure how limiting unswitched circuits prevents users from overloading the device. And is it not simple math to determine if the loads are within the capacity of the wiring, and power distribution devices?

This is a nice clean implementation though. Added to my consideration list... just above the Centech! :)

 
This is a nice clean implementation though. Added to my consideration list... just above the Centech! :)
I picked up a Centech AP2 + relay kit from a forum member at the start of the winter. I'm pretty sure I'm going to install it in the next 2 weeks. I'll take some pics for everybodies entertainment at my 'git r done' wiring.

 
I like the FZ1 fuse block with the relay built in small and clean looking, it does have the draw back of only being rated at 30 amps with a max of 10 amps per item. So I have chosen to rum my Hella FF50's fused strait off the battery then every thing else of the FZ1.

Some one posted up mounting their fuse block back in the tail that I liked and copied, it sits vertical hiding the tail light sockets and leaves some of the storage below. If you need access to the tail light sockets you loosen the 2 bolts that hold it to the lower tray and pivot it forward.

I copied this so I didn't think I should show pictures as it wasn't my idea. I wish I was better at searching I tried to find the original post so I could reference it and give credit to the originator.

 
Nice looking fuse block... but I'm leaning towards the "Fuzeblock". Anyone had issues with the integrated relay on the Fuzeblock? I can't say that I've ever had to change a relay on any vehicle I've ever owned so it doesn't seem like an issue to me. Maybe it's just my ignorance of the finer points of electrical stuff but I'm not sure how limiting unswitched circuits prevents users from overloading the device. And is it not simple math to determine if the loads are within the capacity of the wiring, and power distribution devices?

This is a nice clean implementation though. Added to my consideration list... just above the Centech! :)
I have the fuze block fz-1 and like it fine with the integrated relay, but in hindsight, I would have gone with the easternbeaver PC-8 with harness as I have already used up the 6 circuits on the fz1 and the pc8 has eight. Also, it's a bonus that the pc8 handles more amps. But, since I have no intention, at this time, of adding anymore electrical farkles, I'm happy with the fz1 even though, I guess I could sell it and get a pc8. The relay difference I don't see that it matters. Both are very close to the same size as I store mine in the crevise behind the upper portion of the right panel covering the battery just to the right of the windshield's moving arm.

Cheers,

Mike in Nawlins'

 
I just installed a Centech AP-2 that I bought a couple of months ago. If I were to do it again, I would probably go with the FZ because of the built in relay, it would make for a tidier installation. But this one from Eastern Beaver also looks better than the Centech. I guess you can say the Centech is showing it's age, it was a great improvement in it's day.

Ron

 
Anybody have experience with the Eastern Beaver relay harness to an under seat location? I am trying to decide which length harness I need. I did the Google search ("Eastern Beaver" relay harness site:fjrforum.com) but the hits don't address the length.

 
Anybody have experience with the Eastern Beaver relay harness to an under seat location? I am trying to decide which length harness I need. I did the Google search ("Eastern Beaver" relay harness site:fjrforum.com) but the hits don't address the length.

I used one for my Centech AP2, install discussed here with pix (go down about 2/3rds of the page to see the post/pic). The Eastern Beaver relay is fine, you will just need to ask him to add about 14" of main wire to the max length he shows on his site, and about 24" to the relay wire (even beyond his "extra length" option, assuming you will be tapping into the harness near the rear brake light. I had the shorter length (what he called his max run on his website) and it barely reached the AP2, and I had to run an extra length of wire to reach the rear.

Otherwise, his construction is solid.

 
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