ECU flash for smoothness in 09 FJR?

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I have an '07. PCV, G2 throttle tube, a solid TB sync, relieving one wind on the throttle return spring and removing unnecessary slack in the throttle cable made the bike behave as I thought it should.

If you find yourself in Dallas I'd be happy to take a look. I found my PCV used on this forum. It seems pretty common for folks here to return their bikes to stock and sell accessories before/after selling the bike.

 
made the bike behave as I thought it should.
@Gen2Jockey:

Right . . . getting the bike to behave as "it should" . . . I guess that is the fate of the Gen2 owner/operator . . . . Did the TB sync, did the relieve the spring thing . . . more yet to try on the quest to get the bike to behave as it should . . . ???

 
The only thing I left out was raising the idle speed up a touch. The PCV is where the magic is at. You can expect to loose a little MPG depending on the map you like. Not sure I would bother with the Auto tune and map switch accessories. Most of the tweaks are simple adjustments anyone could do. The PCV required some expenditure but I see this bike as a hobby and it will require money even if it's for expendables such as tires or brakes. Most middle aged (after emissions restrictions and before the current crop) fuel injected bikes usually benefit from EFI re-tuning to take away snatchy throttle response and smooth out the lean spots. I felt it was a safety issue given the technical nature of the roads I most often ride in AR and MO. A friend purchased a 2017 Concours and is having the same fueling issues. It drove him nuts in the ARMO. There's a PCV in his future too.

 
Most middle aged (after emissions restrictions and before the current crop) fuel injected bikes usually benefit from EFI re-tuning to take away snatchy throttle response and smooth out the lean spots. I felt it was a safety issue given the technical nature of the roads I most often ride in AR and MO. A friend purchased a 2017 Concours and is having the same fueling issues. It drove him nuts in the ARMO. There's a PCV in his future too.
@Gen2Jockey:

Right, and not a cheap hobby either these days . . . but, with you on the "safety issue" aspect, the feeling has been one of "un-safe" rather than just "risk management" . . . . Here the "technical nature of the roads" involves other aggressive car drivers before getting to the tight twisties of the local mountains.

Did see other mentions of the "1100 rpm" adjustment as something to do . . . . Interesting to hear about the '17 Concours having similar EFI issues, as the'08 I rented for several long rides was IMHO "flawless" in its mapping . . . just that it was a "stone" rolling it around for a guy pushing into "the 60's" decade of life . . . once under power it was very balanced . . . . There is no "perfect bike" available for budgets on a shoe-string . . . well, we'll see what the new year brings to the FJR experience . . . .

 
@BanjoBoy:

Finally got a G2 Throttle Tamer installed on my 09er . . . professionally installed, and the mechanic took the bike around a bit before and after the install . . . . Bringing it back he said, "That is just terrible . . . it's like turning the throttle there's nothing, nothing, nothing . . . then it hits too hard . . . no way to figure out when it's going to do that . . . it's just terrible . . . ." . . . "Yes," I said.

So, now I'm not the only person to think the mapping is "terrible" on this bike, or possibly all Gen2s . . . a neutral party has now confirmed it. Another mechanic there took his time to stick his finger in the tailpipe . . . doing the old "sniff" test I guess . . . "See," he said showing his clean finger . . . "too lean" . . . .

Guy number one said, "This throttle tube isn't going to fix the problem, it's just a band-aid, do you still want me to do it?" . . . "Yes," I said, it couldn't hurt it to see what it does . . . ." He put the part on, then rode it around the block . . . "Nope, still terrible, just like I thought . . . ."

Today I got a chance to take the bike out for what might have been 50 miles of canyon and highway . . . and it isn't "any worse" than it was, might be a tiny bit better . . . the G2 guy sent me an "R1" tube that is the "Y300" or "Y400" ??? to try to get the bike "smoother" on the low end, and get better speeds on the high end . . . but it didn't get the bike to smoothly run up to 60 . . . it's just a glitchy hit ride experience . . . . But, on the return of the ride I got a little more used to it . . . .

Reason for this post, these same two mechanics said that the PC-V that is sold in CA would have to meet CA CARB requirements, and therefore would not be substantially, or according to them, "any different than the stock mapping on the low end" . . . . They suggested trying to find an "out of state" PC-V . . . which might be "easy" or might not be . . . but of course wouldn't be CA "legal" . . . but, question is, since you are in "Sonoma County" whether your PC-V is a CA legal unit, and something that made a difference on the low end, i.e., "under 4000" zone?? Or, whether it has to be a "non-CA" unit to clean up the low end "herky-glitchy" . . . now termed "terrible-ness" of the stock mappings . . . ???? They were saying that anything mailed into CA by a legit seller would have to be CA legal . . . again one of them mentioned, "flash tune" the ECU, but so far it doesn't look like such an animal exists for Gen2 bikes, just Gen3????

Thanks,

 
I am assuming that you bought this as a used bike. Private sale or through a dealer?

Stock fuelling on a '09 FJR simply isn't all that bad! (Even for someone used to a lower powered carburetted bike.) I still think you need to have this behavior confirmed by someone who has a lot of miles on a Gen II. Possibly you are especially sensitive to the issue but quite possibly there is something that needs to be addressed. The comments by the service guy seems to support your position. Putting a Power Commander on it might partially mask the issue but won't fix anything.

What service history do you have for this bike? Did previous owner have issues (or can you find out)?

I am beginning to wonder if a valve adjustment was done or the cam chain tensioner was replaced at some point? Entirely possible that the cam chain jumped a tooth during one of these procedures which would make behavior just horrible at low throttle openings. I haven't heard of a cam chain skipping a tooth unless tension was released for service of some sort.

Have you done the diagnostic for the TPS? While it may not always identify a problem, it could indicate some issues if there isn't a smooth transition from minimum to maximum. (Sometimes, a TPS problem only rears its ugly head when it gets hot or with vibration.)

I assume there are no stored fault codes? ECU is pretty dumb so the lack of stored codes may not mean anything.

An issue with the cold idle enrichment circuit might cause starting difficulty, lean idle and bad throttle response until warmed up but should smooth out after. If stuck open, it would run too rich all the time.

The only other thing that occurs to me is a problem with the throttle bodies or injector(s). Doesn't seem likely, though.

 
@RossK:

Bought used a few years ago . . .was thinking recently, "what changed since ownership??" I did a service at 18K by a dealership, supposedly their "top guy" did everything but the valve check, so he did the throttle body sync at that time . . . there was some "sloppy" details he left, like electric vest cable was left hanging outside the tank, instead of returned to tidiness with zip ties under the tank . . . and he left the tank rear bolt loose, so it fell off when I rode it for the Rocky seat upgrade . . . so I didn't go back to that place . . . who knows if anything was done beyond rear end oil and coolant . . . . Then I had another guy "loosen the throttle spring" because of how hard it has been to get the bike up to speed and hold it there . . . and that might have had something to do with my "awareness" of the problems that I am now or have been speaking about . . . possibly making it easier to turn the throttle lets these mapping problems show up??? Don't know . . . .

Before I bought this bike I might have mentioned I rented a Konk 14 two times and rode it some 300 miles away, did not have any of these EFI herky-jerky problems . . . is that "better mapping"?? Heavier bike??? Have not yet gotten to the TPS diagnostic . . . I have had some difficulty finding a shop that knows the FJR or how to diagnose and treat it . . . these latest guys might be able to figure something out . . . .

Seems like you are saying that you don't think the PC-V would make a difference to any of this?? Seems like a number of gents posting here think that it would, others don't . . . somewhat "problematic" to get a clear picture on it . . . .

 
If the bike's behavior was in the envelope of "normal", then the PCV (or a PCIII) is likely to help. If there is something mechanically wrong, it must be dealt with. This is why I keep saying to get someone to check it out for you. See if you can swap bikes with someone and go for a ride. If the difference is dramatic, there is something WRONG that a Band-Aid won't fix.

Perhaps you should ask in the California sub-forum if someone could help you with checking it out. Failing that, they might be able to recommend a top Yamaha service shop. Without actually observing the behavior, all anybody on the forum can do is ask questions and make wild-assed guesses.

 
@RossK:

Thanks for the thoughts on the "CA sub-forum" . . . I'll try to check into it. I did "@" BanjoBoy in this recent posting . . . he is in CA . . . must be out riding with his PC-V upgraded '07 . . . .

Recent mechanic didn't seem to think the behavior was due to something "wrong" other than the CA mandated EFI stock mapping . . . "too lean." Been riding for 30 some years, 170K miles give or take on different bikes . . . this bike "handles well" in the turns, but the throttle issues have turned riding into something "not fun" . . . . Have to see if a few "band-aids" get it back into the fun zone . . . or, move it out . . . ????

 
I was wondering what the throttle body sync looks like when the throttle is turned up a bit. Look for threads that describe the totally unauthorized throttle body sync. This made a noticeable difference in smoothness on my bike. Early in this thread someone mentioned a bad TPS and I think this is a real possibility. I think the TPS is just a linear potentiometer so maybe use an analog VOM (volt-ohm-milliameter) and test the POT to see how smooth the resistance changes as the pot shaft is rotated. Look for a flat spot in the POT as you rotate the shaft. Just mark the location of the TPS if you remove it.

I can't remember what it's called but moving a pin on the ECU connector to allow you to go into diagnostic mode and from there into a program that allows you to adjust individual CO settings for each throttle body resulting in a richer mixture at idle and above idle to around 1.5 to 2.0K RPM makes for a smoother idle and a less jerkiness off idle when you turn up the throttle. I have my CO settings at +15 and I can really tell a big difference especially with smoothness at idle. I just can't recall the name of the procedure, right on the tip of my tongue. I remember it now it's called the Barbarian Jumper Mod. Do a search on this site.

Do you have the factory service manual? It is really a necessity for figuring things out and IMO the FJR FSM is just about as well written an FSM as I've ever seen. Puts the one for my '93 BMW to shame. You really need it if you get into diagnostics.

Don't give up on your bike. These FJRs are really great rides in every way.

 
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I was wondering what the throttle body sync looks like when the throttle is turned up a bit. Look for threads that describe the totally unauthorized throttle body sync. This made a noticeable difference in smoothness on my bike. Early in this thread someone mentioned a bad TPS and I think this is a real possibility. I think the TPS is just a linear potentiometer so maybe use an analog VOM (volt-ohm-milliameter) and test the POT to see how smooth the resistance changes as the pot shaft is rotated. Just mark the location of the TPS if you remove it.
I can't remember what it's called but moving a pin on the ECU connector to allow you to go into diagnostic mode and from there into a program that allows you to adjust individual CO settings for each throttle body resulting in a richer mixture at idle and above idle to around 1.5 to 2.0K RPM makes for a smoother idle and a less jerkiness off idle when you turn up the throttle. I have my CO settings at +15 and I can really tell a big difference especially with smoothness at idle. I just can't recall the name of the procedure, right on the tip of my tongue.

Do you have the factory service manual? It is really a necessity for figuring things out and IMO the FJR FSM is just about as well written an FSM as I've ever seen. Puts the one for my '93 BMW to shame. You really need it if you get into diagnostics.

Don't give up on your bike. These FJRs are really great rides in every way.
It sounds to me that the problem is WAY beyond a less-than-perfect throttle body synchronization.

You can monitor the "smoothness" of the TPS transition as the throttle is opened using the diagnostic function - no VOM required.

Adjusting the individual CO settings is done via the "Barbarian Jumper Mod". You might try richening up all the cylinders by 10 to 15 points but I doubt it will help a lot. Mostly effective at idle and a little above. I played with mine for a bit and returned everything to the original settings.

 
Yes, you can look at the TPS in diagnostics but how easy is it to see a flat spot using a digital readout. One of these days I'm going to look at mine and note the max a min values so if I ever have to replace it I'll just set the new one to these max/min values.

The OP might have a hard time doing these tests since it doesn't sound like he really has the equipment or a place to work.

Then there is no way to really know what's been done to his bike by the previous owner or where he might have taken the bike for service. Like in my case my bike had never been touched by anyone before I bought it and only had about 900 miles on the ODO. The original owner might have changed the oil but that was all. If I ever have to take it to a shop I'm going to have a real problem since the dealers in my area are pretty much in the dark when it comes to the FJR. I would think in a place like LA you could find a good shop somewhere?

 
Yes, you can look at the TPS in diagnostics but how easy is it to see a flat spot using a digital readout. One of these days I'm going to look at mine and note the max a min values so if I ever have to replace it I'll just set the new one to these max/min values.
The OP might have a hard time doing these tests since it doesn't sound like he really has the equipment or a place to work.

Then there is no way to really know what's been done to his bike by the previous owner or where he might have taken the bike for service. Like in my case my bike had never been touched by anyone before I bought it and only had about 900 miles on the ODO. The original owner might have changed the oil but that was all. If I ever have to take it to a shop I'm going to have a real problem since the dealers in my area are pretty much in the dark when it comes to the FJR. I would think in a place like LA you could find a good shop somewhere?
@jammess:

Thanks for the thoughts, it does sound like what you are talking about has been mentioned before, the "barbarian jumper mod" . . . ??? but it seemed like the posters that talked about that either found it "didn't help" or other guys were telling them, "it doesn't help" . . . so I didn't check into it . . . .

As far as the "dealers in the dark" in LA, so far I've had the bike to three dealership shops, two had no clue about the FJR, and the third one did, but was 50 miles away in Ventura County . . . and the service manager was a happy guy . . . one who was "happy" to charge me "two hours to do a good brake bleed . . . and two bottles of brake fluid to do a thorough job of it . . . " . . . I just "smiled" because it was the third shop I had been to, and they did solve the "soft rear brake pedal" problem by bleeding the front brake . . . rather than one of the other shops was . . . "you need a rear brake master rebuild" on your bike with less than 25K on it . . . .

The problem with LA is that it has become stratospherically expensive to rent/lease shops and the old style "good mechanic for a reasonable price" has been priced out . . . . Might be that these latest guys, who are "track day" riders and tuners might help to get the bike running out of CARB compliance and getting it to be . . . "fun" . . . but, "predictable" to ride . . . . Right now it is neither of those.

 
1.) When I do a TBS, I sync the TBs at 4K rpm, (Trick I dun learned on the forum.) most shops just the the TBS at idle. But doubt this will help you any.

2.) The mechanic who stuck his finger in the tail pipe (KINKY!) is correct, these things run too lean off idle, and this is the problem. He's correct that that the G2 is a band-aide. As posted previously in this thread, I use a Dynojet Power Commander Fuel Controller, (PCFC) and it prolly ain't legal in Kalifornia. Now that I think about, think I do recall some places wouldn't sell it to me do to my location.

3.) The mechanic that said it wouldn't help below 4K IS TOTALLY INCORRECT!. In my picture there's 3 dials; 1 is for the 1st 3rd of the rpm range, the second is for the 2nd 3rd of the rpm range, and the 3rd for the 3rd of the rpm range. As you can see from my picture, I'm on "map1" the far left dial. I loaded a couple other maps, but don't use them, their "stock" map with some tweaks seems fine.

There no Kalifornia Power Commanders, they're all the same. I'm a simple kinda guy, and the PCFC was cheap, and simple. I read about peeps who swear by the G2, but like your mechanic said, it's a band aide; it doesn't address the root cause which is lean fueling off idle.

 
Back on this topic, I'm starting to get more serious about trying to get the "flat spot" out of the EFI, the one that happens right off of idle . . . and back when BanjoBoy posted the link to the PCV via eBay I think the price was a "reasonable" $210 or $250 . . . which at the time I didn't want to throw that kind of money into fixing something that "should" be "fine" in a box stock bike . . . but, in this case is not . . . .

So I did a click on the link in this thread and this time eBay said, "We don't have anything like this" . . . ?? So I went to DuckDuck and went to the PowerCommander.com page and found the part for my '09er . . . list price $399.99 !!!! The price is for part number #22-017 . . . going back over to eBay with that part number brought a few items . . . lowest price was $299.99 . . . . Are there other "cheaper" PC-V's that would work for the 09 FJR?? Or, are these the "living is easy" Summer prices and what I saw before was "dead of Winter" prices? I prefer the "dead of Winter" type prices . . . but, now . . . something has to be done . . . these prices are in line with what a potential ECU flash could cost, but so far it doesn't seem like that is available for the 09??

A mechanic rode my bike before he put the G2 Throttle Tube on and came back and pronounced it "Terrible" . . . which it is, and the G2 didn't really touch it, after riding the bike for a half an hour today I pulled it back into my back yard, rev-ing the throttle, first gives "choking" sound, then revs up above 3 grand?? It's very "un-cool" . . . anyway he gave me a place to call in Orange CA that might do an ECU tune via "software" . . . haven't tried them yet . . . was hoping to find a PCV for low $200s . . . looked through the "stuff for sale" list here a couple weeks back . . . nothing for Gen2 . . . actually nothing in PCV at the time . . . .

Are there other PCV part numbers to search out for "less"??

 
PC III will do pretty much the same thing. Should be available at lower cost and it can easily be programmed to richen up the off-idle fuelling. There are stock "smoothness" programs available for it.

I said it before and will say it again, before you go looking for aftermarket fixes, make sure that the bike is running normally for an 09. A little bit lean is normal but not to the point of being nearly undriveable! By 2009, Yamaha had fixed most of the excessive lean operation of the '06 and '07. But even these bikes were mostly OK once you got used to them. I put well over 150,000 miles on an '07 without a PC or throttle tamer. I bought the bike used with 12,000 miles on the clock (and a PC III). Took the PC off by 25,000 miles because I didn't like the extra fuel consumption and rode it until I sold it last year with just over 185,000 miles on it. It was a but "abrupt" just off-idle but by no means terrible or unsafe to drive.

A Power Commander might help a bit but doesn't fix a bad TPS, bad fuel injector or a mis-timed cam. Have you tried to swap rides with another FJR owner? Or let someone who REALLY knows the FJR take yours for a ride?

 
Back on this topic, I'm starting to get more serious about trying to get the "flat spot" out of the EFI, the one that happens right off of idle . . . and back when BanjoBoy posted the link to the PCV via eBay I think the price was a "reasonable" $210 or $250 . . . which at the time I didn't want to throw that kind of money into fixing something that "should" be "fine" in a box stock bike . . . but, in this case is not . . . .
So I did a click on the link in this thread and this time eBay said, "We don't have anything like this" . . . ?? So I went to DuckDuck and went to the PowerCommander.com page and found the part for my '09er . . . list price $399.99 !!!! The price is for part number #22-017 . . . going back over to eBay with that part number brought a few items . . . lowest price was $299.99 . . . . Are there other "cheaper" PC-V's that would work for the 09 FJR?? Or, are these the "living is easy" Summer prices and what I saw before was "dead of Winter" prices? I prefer the "dead of Winter" type prices . . . but, now . . . something has to be done . . . these prices are in line with what a potential ECU flash could cost, but so far it doesn't seem like that is available for the 09??

A mechanic rode my bike before he put the G2 Throttle Tube on and came back and pronounced it "Terrible" . . . which it is, and the G2 didn't really touch it, after riding the bike for a half an hour today I pulled it back into my back yard, rev-ing the throttle, first gives "choking" sound, then revs up above 3 grand?? It's very "un-cool" . . . anyway he gave me a place to call in Orange CA that might do an ECU tune via "software" . . . haven't tried them yet . . . was hoping to find a PCV for low $200s . . . looked through the "stuff for sale" list here a couple weeks back . . . nothing for Gen2 . . . actually nothing in PCV at the time . . . .

Are there other PCV part numbers to search out for "less"??
blakmambo, I might be wrong, but the price differences you're encountering may be that BanjoBoy is referring to the Dynojet Power Commander Fuel Controller, (PCFC). The PCFC is a more basic version of the PCV.

A Power Commander might help a bit but doesn't fix a bad TPS, bad fuel injector or a mis-timed cam. Have you tried to swap rides with another FJR owner? Or let someone who REALLY knows the FJR take yours for a ride?
I would agree with RossKean, check all above stuff first. Check Vin# for completed recalls. As mentioned TPS can be checked in diagnostic mode without any tools, check when cold and hot. This will only be a basic check and won't be taking into account for vibration, but it will tell you calibration, or if there is a worn spot in the rheostat part of TPS.

Hope you find the answer soon. Don't give up!
smile.png


 
Have you gone back and looked into the Barbarian mod? It definitely helped my '07. Write down your original values! 7 points up on each helped mine a lot. Also:

- take all the slack out of the throttle cables;

- bump your idle up to about 1100;

- checked your air filter lately?

All of this costs nothing, see what happens.

 
Back on this topic, I'm starting to get more serious about trying to get the "flat spot" out of the EFI, the one that happens right off of idle . . . and back when BanjoBoy posted the link to the PCV via eBay I think the price was a "reasonable" $210 or $250 . . . which at the time I didn't want to throw that kind of money into fixing something that "should" be "fine" in a box stock bike . . . but, in this case is not . . . .
So I did a click on the link in this thread and this time eBay said, "We don't have anything like this" . . . ?? So I went to DuckDuck and went to the PowerCommander.com page and found the part for my '09er . . . list price $399.99 !!!! The price is for part number #22-017 . . . going back over to eBay with that part number brought a few items . . . lowest price was $299.99 . . . . Are there other "cheaper" PC-V's that would work for the 09 FJR?? Or, are these the "living is easy" Summer prices and what I saw before was "dead of Winter" prices? I prefer the "dead of Winter" type prices . . . but, now . . . something has to be done . . . these prices are in line with what a potential ECU flash could cost, but so far it doesn't seem like that is available for the 09??

A mechanic rode my bike before he put the G2 Throttle Tube on and came back and pronounced it "Terrible" . . . which it is, and the G2 didn't really touch it, after riding the bike for a half an hour today I pulled it back into my back yard, rev-ing the throttle, first gives "choking" sound, then revs up above 3 grand?? It's very "un-cool" . . . anyway he gave me a place to call in Orange CA that might do an ECU tune via "software" . . . haven't tried them yet . . . was hoping to find a PCV for low $200s . . . looked through the "stuff for sale" list here a couple weeks back . . . nothing for Gen2 . . . actually nothing in PCV at the time . . . .

Are there other PCV part numbers to search out for "less"??
blakmambo, I might be wrong, but the price differences you're encountering may be that BanjoBoy is referring to the Dynojet Power Commander Fuel Controller, (PCFC). The PCFC is a more basic version of the PCV.

A Power Commander might help a bit but doesn't fix a bad TPS, bad fuel injector or a mis-timed cam. Have you tried to swap rides with another FJR owner? Or let someone who REALLY knows the FJR take yours for a ride?
I would agree with RossKean, check all above stuff first. Check Vin# for completed recalls. As mentioned TPS can be checked in diagnostic mode without any tools, check when cold and hot. This will only be a basic check and won't be taking into account for vibration, but it will tell you calibration, or if there is a worn spot in the rheostat part of TPS.

Hope you find the answer soon. Don't give up!
smile.png
YES! I have the Power Commander Fuel Controller, (PCFC) as opposed to the Power Commander v. (PCV) They still have 'em on flebay for a reasonable $210, but now it says doesn't ship to Kalifornia, do you have any friends or relatives in a "real" state that can purchase this for you? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynojet-Power-Commander-Fuel-Controller-FC22017/192379240292?epid=662531616&hash=item2ccab23f64:g:uCIAAOSwGJlZI~cx

Another option I was looking at before was Dobeck Performance, https://www.dobeckperformance.com/viewproduct.asp?vehicleid=625

Dunno anything 'bout 'cept what their website says.

On my last '07, I tried all the other stuff, and it's a waste of time, 'n money. Yamaha made these real lean off idle, (Kalifornia models are prolly worse than 49 state bikes?) 'n the only real cure is to richen it back up off idle.

 
YES! I have the Power Commander Fuel Controller, (PCFC) as opposed to the Power Commander v. (PCV) They still have 'em on flebay for a reasonable $210, but now it says doesn't ship to Kalifornia, do you have any friends or relatives in a "real" state that can purchase this for you? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynojet-Power-Commander-Fuel-Controller-FC22017/192379240292?epid=662531616&hash=item2ccab23f64:g:uCIAAOSwGJlZI~cx

Another option I was looking at before was Dobeck Performance, https://www.dobeckperformance.com/viewproduct.asp?vehicleid=625

Dunno anything 'bout 'cept what their website says.

On my last '07, I tried all the other stuff, and it's a waste of time, 'n money. Yamaha made these real lean off idle, (Kalifornia models are prolly worse than 49 state bikes?) 'n the only real cure is to richen it back up off idle.
@replies:

Thanks again for the clarification on the "PCFC" vs "PCV" . . . and the "check the TPS" . . . which could be possible, but bike has just over 24K . . . still a tad bit to go to the 30 - 35K round of fixes that seem to show up in all bikes around that time . . . .

I'll look into seeing if my parents would be amused to help me out from where they live in "real" PA . . . the same mechanic I mentioned before said the same, "They won't ship to CA" . . . but seemed like when I checked this out the first time BB posted that link it might have worked . . . the old folks are a bit "cranky" but might be bribed to repackage and mail it out . . . . PITA as far as the "Yamaha made these super lean off idle in CA" . . . comment goes . . . amazingly "terrible" when standing next to the bike and turning the throttle shows just how "lean" it is . . . .

I'll post back if and when I get an update on it . . . .

 
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