I don't know why they would have been in there for an ECU replacement, but one wonders if they messed with the fast idle equipment under the throttle bodies, or got something jammed up in there.
Cold idle should be up around 2000 or so, and warm idle should be 1100. Warm idle is the only one you can adjust, using the knob in the right side of the fairing, cold idle should automatically be raised. If the idle is too low an AE will feel rough starting off from a stop, even warm. But if it's raised too high, it may try to start engaging the clutch before you've told it to, just from engine RPM. I wonder then if they set the idle too low because that happened to them in the shop.
High idle won't cause premature engagement, the computer follows the idle speed to work out its engagement speed. When all fully warmed up, engagement speed is 1800, disengagement 1300.
If the idle speed is really too high, the MCU will throw a dicky-fit, display an error code (Sh__48 if memory serves), and refuse to engage at all.
When it is warm is the idle the same as it was pre-recall? Something has changed. If the idle is too low it will run rough cold. First thing I thought was that maybe a connection in the ECU area isn't completely tight, but one would think that it would be rough all the time if that was the case. Warm idle should be 1100 rpm.
When warm it sounds lower than pre-recall, but steady. When it is cold, it's sound terrible. Before the ECU, it reved high then lowered after about a minute. Now, it's just sick sounding when cold and not steady, but lower, steady and doesn't rev up and down when warm. I know this is clear as mud. That's the best way I can describe it though. I might mention that I have done the spring unwind one revolution. Anyone know if there were some bad ECU's or does the ECU for an AE differ? Is there a seperate cold and warm idle adjustment on the Gen II?
Thanks
The ECU for the AE I believe is different, not 100% sure, but it does do a lot of communication with the YCC-S MCU, and there are differences in the wiring to it, but it is possible it's "one size fits all".
As for the idle speed, both my FJRs have "liked" 900 rpm warm idle speed. With that I get/got no hesitancy on revving the engine, hot or (fast idling) cold, in neutral or in gear.
Too high (and I'd call 1100 too high), you get an apparent reluctance to dis-engage the clutch when coming to a stop, feels just like a conventional if you don't disengage the clutch soon enough. For the record, the workshop manual calls for 1000-1100, but I treat that as a guide, not an absolute requirement.
However, it does sound like bthomas's bike may have its idle set too low, so, bthomas, what does your tacho read when your bike is warm? I vote for anywhere between 900 and 1000 as optimum.
And I've never heard of a bad ECU, but there's a first time for everything! I suppose it could be an incorrectly seated connection, but I doubt that, it does so many system checks it would be most unlikely not to throw a code.
Just re-read your original post, you said
Before it would rev high until it warmed a little and now it don't rev high at all.
That is WRONG WRONG WRONG. If there's no fast idle, I'm not surprised it sounds terrible. I'm surprised it runs at all.
The fast idle is nothing to do with the ECU, it's a mechanical wax stat thingy, I've found RadioHowie's description here. Ok, the Gen II has a different characteristic from the Gen I, but the mechanism is functionally the same. Sounds like the dealer has screwed something up, though why he should go near the throttle bodies to change the ECU I've no idea.
