Electrical Power for Heated Gear - SAE, Powerlet, Cigar Plug ?

[bigjohnsd]

I have an FZ-1 Fuze Block, also have a Battery Tender lead with an SAE end on it connected directly to the battery, this SAE lead emerges from the plastic at the rear of the Tupperware next to the tank just aft of the Battery.

I've read somewhere that there is a pretty good voltage drop using the SAE connector into heated gear? Has anyone experienced that problem?

Thinking of both power issues and ergonomic issues?

Would I be better off running a lead from the FZ-1 Fuze Block out the front of the seat between the seat and the tank for clothing Heatroller connection?

Is there some other solution I haven't thought of?

Whatever I do on the FJR I will replicate on the KLR.

Thanks in advance for your inputs.

John

 

[RJAMT]

An SAE connector doesn't have excessive voltage drop but if it uses poor quality wiring inside that can.

As for ergonomics, you don't specify which side of the bike the cable is on but coming from the battery I'm guessing the right side. That could be a pain if you get on/off the bike on the left like most folks. Can you run it under the tank to the left (assuming it isn't already there)?

I happen to have a coax style (easier to connect/disconnect for me) for my heated jacket and have it poking out under the left side of the seat. I'm running it from the fuse block under the pillion. I have occasionally tried to walk away with it connected (embarrassing) but it would be even worse dragging over the tank or tangling on a bag.

 

[BkerChuck]

I use a coax cable hooked to fuse block under passenger seat. Initially I just left the pigtail stick up between the front and rear seats. More recently I put a spring loaded flip top port below the seat, I always have seat in high position. Easy for me to reach and clean look.

Wireless thermostat on front master cylinder.

 

[graler]

I ran the rail mounted powerlet jack that is available from someone on the forum. You can get it in a single port or a dual port. Mine is positioned just aft of the seat release key. This allows me to run a short cable (18") which keeps things pretty handy - not long enough to touch the ground if I forget to plug. It does dangle at the right height to sit on a hot pipe - that was a learning opportunity. The powerlet gets its juice from my fuse block under the pillion seat.

 

[escapefjrtist]

John, I'd come off the FZ1 with a coax connection for heated gear. Have it long enough so it comes out near the LH side, tank - seat juncture with an extra foot of length.

I have my heated gear pigtail connected to a dual powerlet connection at the seat lock and snaked to the same area as above. It's convenient and tucked out of the way when not needed.

--G

 

[graler]

I found the bracket it is one the townsendfjr helmet lock brackets with a single outlet.

 

[BigOgre]

I've a Powerlet plug mounted just in front of the left bag with power run directly to the battery and bypassing the Fuzeblock. Easy to reach down once sitting on the seat to plug in and also gives a nice power source for a compressor or whatever.

One thing I would suggest thinking about with whatever set-up you decide on - at some point you will get off the bike while forgetting to unplug yourself. You will feel the wire tug and rip apart at some point between you and the bike.

Thinking ahead to that moment, see if you could imagine where the break might be and how you can plan for a little strain relief so as not to damage a connector or wire.

 

[07FJRVegas]

I have a coax style connector for both the rider and passenger to power our heated under-jackets. I prefer these connectors as they are easy to connect/disconnect and they simply unplug themselves if I forget (and this will happen). I have both cables connected to the fuse panel in the tail, run under the seats and just poke them up slightly to the left between the tank/rider seat and rider/passenger seat. When not needed in warmer weather, I just tuck both under the seats. Works like a charm.

 

[bigjohnsd]

My heart heattroller has coax connectors and cords as does the jacket. Sounds like my best solution is to run lead from FZ1 block out the left side of the seat. Can do the same on the KLR, using an Eastern Beaver 3 circuit setup on there under the seat. Thanks all for your inputs. Tomorrow's project. Streets might be dry enough to ride on Thursday. But not sure I trust the right knee yet.......bummer.

 

[Niehart]

I installed a BMW style pug in the left fairing next to/through the wind delectors. You can see the plug and the connector for my heatered jacket in the plug.

 

[Abercrombie FJR]

When I bought my jacket I went with Aerostich recommendation of the coaxial connection. Hooked it to my FZ1 coming out from under the left side of my seat. I am looking for a mounted coaxial connection so I don't have the coaxial lead just hanging but it is working great for now.

Here is Aerostich's thoughts on the heated gear connections.


Which power connector?



If you have a BMW with a built-in BMW accessory socket, then the BMW-style connector is simple, easy and good. Otherwise we recommend the Quickconnect, also known as coaxial or 'male-and-female' style. It's the easiest to use (to connect and disconnect) and has lowest electrical resistance, so your gear heats up a little faster. (A nanosecond? Half a minute? In use we can't feel any difference, but we once did some controlled bench tests and there is a difference.)



There are zero reliability issues with all styles. All are tough and durable in all weathers and conditions. The SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) style is the commonest and oldest design, and it's the hardest to push together and pull apart, but this gets slightly easier as it breaks in. It's also the least expensive to manufacture, and is the most widely available at auto parts stores.



The BMW style has one feature the other two don't...It comes apart with a screwdriver. Inside are two little set screws, one holding each wire to it's respective terminal. These make it simple to transfer the plug to another wire if anything does break. This style is slightly larger and bulkier, and by a small margin it's the easiest to manipulate wearing bulky insulated gloves.



But we still prefer and recommend the durable, compact and easiest-to-use Quickconnect coaxial style. Overall, it's the best.

 

[LittleJon]

I bought myself a heated jacket liner for Christmas.

I have a battery tender SAE connector tucked between the tank and the faring on the right side of the bike.

I have an FZ1 fuse block under the seat.

I just got around to ordering my controller 2 days ago, and expect it to be delivered today.

With the controller, I ordered a coax-SAE adapter cable because I wasn't sure how I was going to run it, and I wanted to be prepared.

Your timing couldn't be better (for me, anyway), since we have nearly identical set-ups.

Thank you for asking the question.

 

[mcatrophy]

I run a flying lead from under the saddle on the right side with a co-ax connector. If I forget to unplug it when I dismount (about 98% of the time), it simply pulls straight out with no strain on anything.

(Click on image for larger view)



Yes, there's plenty of space for the wire to come out. When not required, the wire simply tucks under the saddle.

Never had it unplug when riding

 

[RJAMT]

That's another thing I like about the coax. It's small enough that I can tuck it under the edge of the saddle when not using.

 

[K_Flyer]

Where do you get the coax connectors? I checked Aerostich but they don't seem to carry parts, just adapters.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Where do you get the coax connectors? I checked Aerostich but they don't seem to carry parts, just adapters.

Many of the major vendors carry several styles and adapters. I like RevZilla for a good selection.

--G