Entire gas gauge flashing

[madmike2]

I pulled the tank and the fuel pump assembly to install a bulkhead fitting for my auxiliary tank. After the R&R and filling the gas tank 1/2 way, when I turn on the key the entire gas gauge flashes, not just the gas pump icon, the entire E-F gauge.

The pump cycles and the bike runs, just no gas gauge. I've unplugged and replugged the wiring, and yes, the white plug is on the innermost receptacle and the green plug is on the outermost receptacle as per the pictures I have and my own notes.

Any specific ideas?

I mean, besides I should have left it alone this close to NAFO?

 

[ionbeam]

If you can, you need to ohm the fuel sender. It should be 20 ohms (full) and 140 ohms empty. Don't sweat a few ohms one way or the other.

 

[vabrzn]

I had a similiar problem after replacing the fuel pump in a Honda Civic. Eventually I disconnected the battery, reconnected ,and the instruments worked. Worth a try. Good luck!

 

[user 2024]

If you took out the fuel pump (like I did) for fitting then you must have done something to the float/sender unit. Hopefully not though.

 

[odot]

Whelp......time to install a reserve petcock.

 

[SkooterG]

RUN!!!!

Auto self-destruct has been initiated and it's going to blow up!!!!

 

[kaitsdad]

Mike, hate to tell you this, but you need to pull the tank and eyeball the pump - looking for a loose connector.

The pump assembly is a fug snit coming out of the mounting hole in the bottom of the tank. I would hazard a guess that there's a open connection -

As you've already checked everything else, my focus would be on the pump.

 

[odot]

What's a fugs nit?

 

[chrisflock]

What's a fugs nit?

A: it is fug snit, not fugs nit.

Third of all, If you have to ask, you wouldn't understand...

 

[dcarver]

Bump for MM..

What's the status Mike?

Yesterday I ran a test - 'how far can I go on a tank of gas' scenario'. Used a flashlight to examine fuel level when at +60 miles into reserve. Interesting look..

I could see a connector on the inside of the tank that connected the sender to the bulkhead.

I imagine that bulkhead has two connections..

1. Interior

2. Exterior

I would suggest looking at the *interior* connection as I ASSume you had to disconnect that to install the bulkhead fitting?

Mikeeee - sorry if I'm totally off base here... just trying to help mi amigo, eh?

 

[madmike2]

Bump for MM..
What's the status Mike?

Yesterday I ran a test - 'how far can I go on a tank of gas' scenario'. Used a flashlight to examine fuel level when at +60 miles into reserve. Interesting look..

I could see a connector on the inside of the tank that connected the sender to the bulkhead.

I imagine that bulkhead has two connections..

1. Interior

2. Exterior

I would suggest looking at the *interior* connection as I ASSume you had to disconnect that to install the bulkhead fitting?

Mikeeee - sorry if I'm totally off base here... just trying to help mi amigo, eh?

I've already had the tank off and the pump pulled for inspection and testing. I used an ohm meter per Ionbeam's suggestion and have no readings from the pins on the outside, on the inside connector or at the float assembly itself. This is bad ju-ju!

Evidently I have twisted the housing, or something, enough that there is no connection so I've gone the expensive route and ordered a pump assembly that is being sent "UPS blue label" and should be here Monday or Tuesday. Another little project to complete one night this week prior to leaving for NAFO.

Sleep...who needs it...it is highly overrated. :dribble:

 

[kaitsdad]

DC, Gen1 pumps are diffurnt -

Bump for MM..
What's the status Mike?

Yesterday I ran a test - 'how far can I go on a tank of gas' scenario'. Used a flashlight to examine fuel level when at +60 miles into reserve. Interesting look..

I could see a connector on the inside of the tank that connected the sender to the bulkhead.

I imagine that bulkhead has two connections..

1. Interior

2. Exterior

I would suggest looking at the *interior* connection as I ASSume you had to disconnect that to install the bulkhead fitting?

Mikeeee - sorry if I'm totally off base here... just trying to help mi amigo, eh?

I've already had the tank off and the pump pulled for inspection and testing. I used an ohm meter per Ionbeam's suggestion and have no readings from the pins on the outside, on the inside connector or at the float assembly itself. This is bad ju-ju!

Evidently I have twisted the housing, or something, enough that there is no connection so I've gone the expensive route and ordered a pump assembly that is being sent "UPS blue label" and should be here Monday or Tuesday. Another little project to complete one night this week prior to leaving for NAFO.

Sleep...who needs it...it is highly overrated. :dribble:

Ouch.

Cause you're not a chick, I can ask how much?

 

[dcarver]

I hope I understand...

There must be a connection from the tank interior fuel gauge sender (Ohms) to the tank exterior via a bulkhead fitting?

If the display is flashing, I would assume the connection from the sender to the ECU is broken..

So, as as test, could one simply substitute a fixed resistor, or better yet, a resistance decade box, to simulate the output of the fuel tank sender?

I ASSume that somewhere, in the process of installing the bulkhead fitting, the 'connection' between the sensor and ECU has been broken.

Then again;... [SIZE=8pt]if i was good at this **** I'd be a moto-sickle mekanic not a jerk... [/SIZE]

 

[madmike2]

Don, I pulled the pump assembly from the tank bottom and began a trace of the circuit. Starting at the external pins on the pump housing, I can get readings up to the base of the float assembly on both wires that would indicate that there is a complete circuit to that point. I'm reading no values directly across the 2 posts at the float connections, so I concluded that the resistance board is tweaked or cracked so there is an open circuit under the arc of the resistance field. From that I am assuming I've somehow "buggered" that part of the pump housing (though visually it looks okay).

When I do the exchange (that is hopefully successful) I'll post a picture of what I am trying to describe.

 

[FJRay]

Hey Mike. The first question on the trouble shooting flow chart is. Did You touch it ???? I am sure you will get it going in time for the trip or you could ride the KLR. See you there.

 

[SkooterG]

Here are some photos of a Gen I fuel pump. Boy-O-boy, this thread is a blast from the past: Old EZBoard fuel pump thread

 

[eeksnake]

Forgive my simple question MM2 (simple questions from simple minds...)

Did you try pulling up the Diagnostic screen? Common sense tells me that it would flash too but since it involves so little in labor, it might have been worth a shot. If it did come up, it might display the appropriate error code.

 

[madmike2]

At issue is the open circuit. Trust me, I have put the ohmmeter across the different wires and pins. The only open circuit is the red and black wires as they run through the furl gauge (See Greg's 4th picture). There is a complete circuit between those connections to the pins of the plug-in connector so the problem is in the circuit board that you can see at the pivot end of the float, the plastic piece houses a pin that moves on the arc and causes the fluctuating resistance that "reads out" as Empty-Full.

Forgive my simple question MM2 (simple questions from simple minds...)
Did you try pulling up the Diagnostic screen? Common sense tells me that it would flash too but since it involves so little in labor, it might have been worth a shot. If it did come up, it might display the appropriate error code.

The diagnostic screen does not flash, not does the odometer, speedometer, trip meter or clock....just the fuel gauge itself, the gas pump icon and the arc-shaped gauge E-F. The code tells me there is an open circuit to the fuel gauge....Doh!

 

[slapnpop]

Bah... Bikes had no fuel gauges for years!