Error code SH___48

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Abercrombie FJR

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My 07 AE model has my local dealer U Motors stumped and left me stranded twice. My shift light comes on and I get an error code of SH__48. It will start but not go into gear. Dealer says it is idleing too fast causing problem but they are not able to fix it.

I also had an Error code of Sh__37 with the shift light on a couple of weeks ago after washing it and the bike would not start till the next day when it went away and the bike ran fine. Told U Motors about it and he was unable to tell me the cause and found no record of the code in the computer.

Anybody have any ideas to help me get on the road?

 
On my bike it is the shifter switch, I have SH__22 on my dash, saw SH__55, 53 and it would not start. It is a pricey switch, the new one showed up today at the dealer for me. Don't touch the center allen bolt on the plate, take out the 2 top, 2 bottom and the 1 front on the plate, the side stand comes loose with it. Take out the 2 small security screws on the switch and lift it off, there is like a key on 2 pins that fits in the switch. Turn on the ignition and if you turn the switch slowly the error code changes, if you get it right it will clear. I got mine to SH__22 and it starts and runs the finger switch works like regular. The switch is weard and expencive. $265 this may be the beginning of a recall. Mine messed up about a month ago.

 
My 07 AE model has my local dealer U Motors stumped and left me stranded twice. My shift light comes on and I get an error code of SH__48. It will start but not go into gear. Dealer says it is idleing too fast causing problem but they are not able to fix it.
What have they done to adjust the idle? If the idle adjust is all the way to idle and it is running too fast the air screws on each intake need to go in an equal amount until they have some bottom idle range and then the TBS done again. At least that is what was told when I was having some idle issues on my A model.

 
My 07 AE model has my local dealer U Motors stumped and left me stranded twice. My shift light comes on and I get an error code of SH__48. It will start but not go into gear. Dealer says it is idleing too fast causing problem but they are not able to fix it.
What have they done to adjust the idle? If the idle adjust is all the way to idle and it is running too fast the air screws on each intake need to go in an equal amount until they have some bottom idle range and then the TBS done again. At least that is what was told when I was having some idle issues on my A model.

Can you adjust the idle speed downward with the idle adjustment screw. If not read below

The idle speed of the FJR1300 is controlled by a device called a Bypass Air Unit which allows air to bypass the throttle bodies thus raising and lowering the idle speed depending upon the amount of air bypassed. Inside the Bypass AIr Unit is a shuttle valve which when moved allows more air to each throttle body. The shuttle valve is moved by the rotating the threaded end which is connected to the idle speed adjustment cable. When the cable is rotated, the rod goes in and out thus allowing the shuttle valve to bypass more or less air. The shuttle valve is moved back by a spring on the opposite end. If the shuttle valve is stuck in its bore the spring will not move it back to reduce the bypass air, thus reduce the idle speed. On the opposite end of the device is a brass screw which allows access to the spring and brass shuttle valve. If you remove the brass screw and spring and used WD40 to lubricate the shuttle valve you can use a 1/4 inch wooden dowel and push the shuttle valve back down to the other end of its bore and used the idle knob to return it. Doing this several time, will free up the shuttle valve and it cam be removed. After removing the shuttle valve, clean everything with WD40 and reassemble the Bypass Air Unit. At this time the shuttle valve should move freely in its bore and allow the idle speed to be adjusted as designed.

 
Got it back today, new shifter switch, problem solved, new fork seals, new front wheel bearings and seals, new ignition, not the best service took too long bla bla bla, but everything seams to work, good to have it back. all warranty, no charge.

 
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Got it back today, new shifter switch, problem solved, new fork seals, new front wheel bearings and seals, new ignition, not the best service took too long bla bla bla, but everything seams to work, good to have it back. all warranty, no charge.
Banzai,

Make sure you have the AAA Premier membership with the one 200 mile tow. Yamaha declared victory on fixing my electrical / shift problems many, many times. The last time I really trusted them, my bike left me stranded over 400 miles from home (and Yamaha over 6 months of my bike in 3 different shops replaced practically the entire shifting assembly).

Having that said, I hope you bike is FIXED!

Best regards,

Shane

 
I don't know what to tell you about getting fixed. I mean this sincerely but after you get it fixed trade it in on one with a clutch.
Read Here

Good luck with your bike.

Hey I already tried that. U Motors had an 08 A Model hold over for $9999. a week ago that I attempted to trade for Monday and they said Yamaha removed rebates and now its priced at $13,990. WTF!

 
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Hey new update on the progress they are making on my bike that won't shift into 1st. When I stopped in to check on it the other day, now they say it won't even turn over or start. The bike is well into the forth week sitting in the shop after weather related roll over repairs and error code repairs. I think I’m going to need a little counseling here soon. The summers to short for this crap in ND.

 
Sadly.

I'd say have them fix it then get rid of it.

Also, you may want to try another dealer, it sounds like U motors is pulling some shady practices (An 08 should NOT be cheap, then all of a sudden the same price sa an 09, can we say bait and switch?)

But considering the issues Shane had, Id say if you can, find a way to dump the AE and get an A (IF financially fesable, I realize it's easy to say that when it's not MY money on the line here)

 
Replace Throttle Bodies...

Happened to me. See my posts in this thread: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...71&hl=shift

I was pretty mad at the dealer, 'cause he gave me a line of crap, held onto my bike for a long time, and held onto my money... but if you can filter through my emotion, you'll see in the end, that Yamaha finally honored it and replaced the throttle bodies.

If not covered... you'll need $1200 to fix it.

Good luck.

 
Replace Throttle Bodies...
Happened to me. See my posts in this thread: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...71&hl=shift

I was pretty mad at the dealer, 'cause he gave me a line of crap, held onto my bike for a long time, and held onto my money... but if you can filter through my emotion, you'll see in the end, that Yamaha finally honored it and replaced the throttle bodies.

If not covered... you'll need $1200 to fix it.

Good luck.
Stopped in at U Motors Wednesday to check on progress and they come up with the same conclusion that the throttle body would need replacement. Before that occurred I got a call stating that a Honda representative assisted them and they were able to make the adjustment internally in the throttle body. A Honda rep? WTF? They diagnosed the cause of the bike not starting being a shorted out kill switch. Bottom line is its Saturday, I still don't have my bike, and I’m still bumming motorcycles from my wife and kids.

I don't get it. The bike ran great when I rode it in 5 & 1/2 weeks ago to replace some scratched plastic, a brake lever and broken saddle bag.

 
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Bad part of it too... and will cost me later on...

When my throttle body ***'y went bad... the bike was revving really, really hard at the stop lights. Idling way too high, and the AE clutch engaging at a stop. I had to hold the brake on tight, to keep from rolling through.

A friend of mine said he could smell the clutch when I pulled into his driveway, a short distance away.

I know the heat and stress will cost me clucth / drivetrain on down the road. I guess I won't get the mileage other folks have gotten before having to replace.

 
After a replacement of the cam tensioner, got the bike back and had a low idle. I went ahead and traveled to AL and back. At stops, the idle would be low, so I'd shift into neutral to idle up a little till the light turned green, then shift and go. Occasionally, I would get the sh__ 48 code. Called my dealer who said it was a code for "low idle" and to adjust the idle screw up a little. It took a while to find that sucker but then turned it up a little. Now, the idle will go up sometimes at stops while still in 1st and the code __48 comes on and not allow to shift into 1st or will go down to the slow idle trying to die. I figured out that if the idle is too fast while waiting for the light, I just kill the motor and wait for the light to turn green, then hit the start switch and go. Then took it to the local AL dealer where the owner went to the bike and held down both buttons on the speedometer to get a code history. It then showed code 15 (i think). He looked it up and said it was a throttle position sensor. Called my local dealer who has now ordered that part which will be here in a few days. What's odd is the fact that when I took the bike in for the cam tensioner replacement, the bike was delivered to the shop in the back of my truck, worked on, then trucked back to my house. A few days later, started the bike up to discover the low idle. How come it wasn't noticed at their shop? I don't know how long they're test riding the bikes but it seems they need to test ride them longer. I think the service mind set is somewhat geared toward fixing the problem at hand believing that's all that's required. They get rushed because the actual mechanic work takes so long then there's a rush to get the bike back in your hands and get you out of there. ;)

git-r-dan :beach:

 
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