Farkle fever requires longer battery bolts

[Toecutter]

Anybody know the bolt size or where to source some longer copper bolts? I guess they're copper?

 

[Bike Effects]

Anybody know the bolt size or where to source some longer copper bolts? I guess they're copper?

Not sure where you might find them but be carefull. Too long and they will penetrate the top of the battery.

 

[Toecutter]

Not sure where you might find them but be carefull. Too long and they will penetrate the top of the battery.

Yeah, they only need to be about 1/4" longer. If I find some I'll have to cut them myself.

 

[madmike2]

Anybody know the bolt size or where to source some longer copper bolts? I guess they're copper?

Is there some reason you are running all the wires to the battery rather than running 1 # 10 wire to a barrier strip for power and the same for a ground strip?

 

[ionbeam]

+1 about the barrier strip. But, bigger auto parts stores carry long battery studs.

They also sell a flat brass plate that goes under the batt screw head (can't find a picture one). It is semi-circular and has several flat tabs around the periphery for spade connectors.

Edited:

[think]Check to see if there would be enough clearance between the longer stud and the D panel. [/think] :blink:

 

[etz]

When you eventually find slightly longer bolts to accomodate all the ring terminals you're piling up on there, throw the old bolts in your toolkit in case you ever find yourself removing accessories & wiring. As was mentioned, you could end up with a bolt that is too long to tighten w/o damaging the battery.

Or instead of keeping the short bolt, toss a couple of washers in the toolkit. That way you can just shim with washers as needed. Yea I like that better since a washer might come in handy for some other purpose. Then again, a spare battery bolt could be useful too.

Screw it, keep spares of both!

 

[Toecutter]

Anybody know the bolt size or where to source some longer copper bolts? I guess they're copper?

Is there some reason you are running all the wires to the battery rather than running 1 # 10 wire to a barrier strip for power and the same for a ground strip?

Laziness? Concerns about hot (electrical) studs in precarious places? That and time constraints. I need to have this thing back together tonight in time to take to work and test the new additions in time for Saturday's ride. I'll try to hook it all up with the stock bolts now and add another terminal strip later. Thanks Mike!

 

[jestal]

Usually you just need a longer bolt to pick up the battery lug that falls to the bottom of the slot. The stock bolt will accomodate quite a bit of more terminals if the battery lug stays up in the slot.

Find a tiny piece of foam rubber or a piece of rag or anything compressable and pack it under the lug so that it stays at the top of it's travel and the stock bolt can easily pick it up and then work fine.

If you still have the fairing off so that you can access the starter solenoid that is also a good place to stack some terminals for extra power connections instead of at the battery itself.

 

[Toecutter]

Usually you just need a longer bolt to pick up the battery lug that falls to the bottom of the slot. The stock bolt will accomodate quite a bit of more terminals if the battery lug stays up in the slot.
Find a tiny piece of foam rubber or a piece of rag or anything compressable and pack it under the lug so that it stays at the top of it's travel and the stock bolt can easily pick it up and then work fine.

If you still have the fairing off so that you can access the starter solenoid that is also a good place to stack some terminals for extra power connections instead of at the battery itself.

Great suggestions! Duly noted and will act accordingly.

 

[HIGHLANDER]

Usually you just need a longer bolt to pick up the battery lug that falls to the bottom of the slot. The stock bolt will accomodate quite a bit of more terminals if the battery lug stays up in the slot.

Find a tiny piece of foam rubber or a piece of rag or anything compressable and pack it under the lug so that it stays at the top of it's travel and the stock bolt can easily pick it up and then work fine.

If you still have the fairing off so that you can access the starter solenoid that is also a good place to stack some terminals for extra power connections instead of at the battery itself.

Great suggestions! Duly noted and will act accordingly.

I usually use a part of a zip tie or cut of the tail end of a used one, fold it in two and stuff it under the battery lug nut. The spring tension of the folded up zip pushes the lug up so the bolt can attached easily.

BTW TC too many hot leads coming off the battery is a recipe for disaster, all those leads are hot all the time, just waiting to short out or burn up. Get to work on the barrier strip asap.

 

[donaldb]

Usually you just need a longer bolt to pick up the battery lug that falls to the bottom of the slot. The stock bolt will accomodate quite a bit of more terminals if the battery lug stays up in the slot.

Find a tiny piece of foam rubber or a piece of rag or anything compressable and pack it under the lug so that it stays at the top of it's travel and the stock bolt can easily pick it up and then work fine.

If you still have the fairing off so that you can access the starter solenoid that is also a good place to stack some terminals for extra power connections instead of at the battery itself.

Great suggestions! Duly noted and will act accordingly.

I usually use a part of a zip tie or cut of the tail end of a used one, fold it in two and stuff it under the battery lug nut. The spring tension of the folded up zip pushes the lug up so the bolt can attached easily.

BTW TC too many hot leads coming off the battery is a recipe for disaster, all those leads are hot all the time, just waiting to short out or burn up. Get to work on the barrier strip asap.

+1 the zip tie trick is what I do! The existing bolts are enough for one ring connection, but not long enough for 2 ring connects

 

[Groo]

I love the zip tie suggestion.. I've had issues getting that )(*^@*()$%)* nut back on the bolt in the past... that ought to help greatly... :clapping:

 

[yamahlr]

I just went through the same mess, Jestal is right on the mark, bolt seems to be long enough once you raise the battery nut a bit so the bolt grips it.

 

[FJRandy]

I love the zip tie suggestion.. I've had issues getting that )(*^@*()$%)* nut back on the bolt in the past... that ought to help greatly... :clapping:

BTDT. Small flat blade screwdriver works even better. And I'm talking small. I got one just for that purpose and put a 90 degree bend in it. It's now just my "battery nut holder thingie". All of $.79 in your local hardware store.

 

[Toecutter]

Well, right after I posted I went out and got to work. Ended up using the latch portion of a couple of zip ties under the nuts. Snipped 'em off short and just left 'em there, trapped by the stock terminals.

BTW TC too many hot leads coming off the battery is a recipe for disaster, all those leads are hot all the time, just waiting to short out or burn up. Get to work on the barrier strip asap.

All the extra leads on there now are heading to relays, except for the battery tender lead which terminates in a capped SAE plug, when it's not plugged into my tankbag to power up the Autocom.

Let's see, there's:

Horn harness

Terminal strip leads

Battery tender leads

HID headlight leads

Only four ring terminals stacked up on top of the stock leads. What could go wrong? For one thing, the stupid windshield auto retract started working again after I buttoned it all up today. Now I have to go back into that bundled mess and find out how that got reconnected. Strange...

 

[PerfectBlueride]

Yep +1 for a small jewels type screw driver, I have also had good results with a coffee stirrers.