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Does anybody use a scissors-type center jack when working on their FJR? There are a number of motorcycles in the household (we're blessed that way), and my wife's do not have centerstands. I now have a platform service lift, and am trying to figure out the best option for the fleet. Any special issues about lifting from the underside that I should be aware of, or lift points to use or avoid? (I know enough not to use the headers as the lift point.) On the FJR, it will probably be used mostly for front end work. I have a drop-out plate for rear wheel changes, so that isn't as big an issue as front lift points.

I've looked at the one from Handy (which comes standard with a number of attachments for various frame configurations) and the K&L (which is more money and you have to buy the attachments separately). The Handy is rated at 750 lbs; the K&L is at 1100 lbs. The Handy is made in Iowa; the K&L is made in places unknown, and the Black Jack brand is undoubtedly made in China. I'd just as soon buy American, but not if the function is inferior. I know that the Handy and the K&L are "shop quality"; I don't know about the Black Jack version.

I appreciate hearing about your experience/advise/recommendations re: the FJR. I'll temper it with my needs for using the jack on the other motorcycles.

If this thread should be in the mechanical/technical topics, please move it and accept my apologies.

 
Many of us use the existing center stand and then use a floor jack to raise the front by putting a block under the headers. There isn't that much weight involved at that point. Some folks here use an overhead frame work made from pipe and straps to lift the front. See fjr tech.com for some other ideas. The naked bikes are a lot easier to lift since they are more exposed. You will get a lot of suggestions on this I am sure.

Ken.

 
I use a scissor jack from a 1966 Austin-Healy Sprite + a 2 x 4. This year I screwed a lag bolt into the center of the 2 x 4 to position the wood squarely over the 4 header pipes. The top of the jack base plate is only 1" x 3" long and has a 1" dia. hole in it, so the bolt head fits into the hole & aligns everything.

 
A+ on the center stand & lifting the front off the ground with a 2X4 under the headers and any old type of auto scissors jack or roll around hydraulic jack. You only have to lift it up untill the rear tire touches the ground, so not much lifting pressure. You really don't have to have any jack at all by having it on the center stand & getting someone to sit on the rear seat (which lifts the front) & then block it up under the headers. In any case, make sure to strap the center stand tight toward the front to the headers, so it can't roll forward off the center stand. You may be like me and not have any friends who you could trust to set on the back till you block it up! Hmm, just how many concrete blocks can I pile in the top box, to lift it---I can trust concrete blocks!

Later, De :exhappysmiley:

 
Just a reminder to please be careful when working around a lifted bike. Ya ya, I know I'm stating the obvious. My brother was working on his bike in the shed prepping it for the long winter sleep last week. Had it lifted up without a safety strap on it. He bent down to get something under the bike and put his hand on the floorboard (VStar) and leaned on it.

You guessed it the bike fell over and pinned him. Apparently he was nearly completely pinned by the bike having only one arm free, and, the wall of the shed blocking his exit. He says he was there yelling his ass off for about 20 minutes for his wife to get help before his neighbor from across the road came home and noticed the bike on it's side.

Sprained wrist, sprained foot and a Yamaha with a taste for blood.

 
I bought a Handy about 20 years ago. Got a good deal and also purchased the snowmobile wings and ATV extensions. Its about the best shop investment I've ever made (well, maybe the frig would rank right up there too). :good:

I would rate it at about a 9+ (out of 10). MUCH easier working on things at eye or chest level.

 
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I use a small floor jack with a 9" square piece of 1/8" aluminum on top - under the headers. Just make sure you don't jack it up too much!

 
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