mattster31
Well-known member
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FJR tear down
- Thread starter mattster31
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
wfooshee
O, Woe is me!!
You want this far?
or this far?
(Pictures shamelessly stolen from www.fjr1300.info)
Or maybe the pictures are good enough to let you see what's there and you leave it alone!!!! <_<
Actually, I'm kinda the same way. Gotta go in and find stuff, see where it's all at, how it works, etc. Bought mine used with 41,000 on the clock, had some electrical add-ons, don't know if the guy knows his butt from a wire harness, so I stripped the fairings and traced it all out. Turned out OK, other than a couple black/red interchanges.
Since buying my '03 in June I've had all the plastic forward of the tank off three times, that first post-purchase inspection, then a damage assessment after my low-side in October, then the new panels going on a couple of weeks ago. I also had SOME of the plastic off to install my cruise control. I've had the rear wheel off to change the tire and lube the shaft and u-joint splines, but otherwise haven't been under the back end at all.
Bin-o-Facts has lots of help here, but the fairings come off starting with the larger side fairings, then the inner covers (A, B, C, and D) then the upper sides, the windshield, the windshield frame, then the lights, to which the front cover is bolted from inside. Upper side fairings have a couple of hard-to-find bolts, but they can be reached if you let the back of the fairing piece hang down so you can get your hand into the nose.
Fastener types are discussed in the Bin-o-Facts, too, but there are basically 3 kinds. Hex-key bolts, plastic center-pin rivets, and plastic philips-head rivets. The center-pin rivets throw everybody off who hasn't seen 'em before. Push the pin into the rivet, but not all the way through where it fall out, and the rivet can be pulled out. Once out, remove the center pin. When reinstalling, insert the rivet, then lock it with the center pin.
Use bins or jars with lids to keep fasteners with panels. You'll never keep them all otherwise. You'll find that the hex-key bolts on painted surfaces have a nylon washer on them, so be sure to keep that straight, too.
or this far?
(Pictures shamelessly stolen from www.fjr1300.info)
Or maybe the pictures are good enough to let you see what's there and you leave it alone!!!! <_<
Actually, I'm kinda the same way. Gotta go in and find stuff, see where it's all at, how it works, etc. Bought mine used with 41,000 on the clock, had some electrical add-ons, don't know if the guy knows his butt from a wire harness, so I stripped the fairings and traced it all out. Turned out OK, other than a couple black/red interchanges.
Since buying my '03 in June I've had all the plastic forward of the tank off three times, that first post-purchase inspection, then a damage assessment after my low-side in October, then the new panels going on a couple of weeks ago. I also had SOME of the plastic off to install my cruise control. I've had the rear wheel off to change the tire and lube the shaft and u-joint splines, but otherwise haven't been under the back end at all.
Bin-o-Facts has lots of help here, but the fairings come off starting with the larger side fairings, then the inner covers (A, B, C, and D) then the upper sides, the windshield, the windshield frame, then the lights, to which the front cover is bolted from inside. Upper side fairings have a couple of hard-to-find bolts, but they can be reached if you let the back of the fairing piece hang down so you can get your hand into the nose.
Fastener types are discussed in the Bin-o-Facts, too, but there are basically 3 kinds. Hex-key bolts, plastic center-pin rivets, and plastic philips-head rivets. The center-pin rivets throw everybody off who hasn't seen 'em before. Push the pin into the rivet, but not all the way through where it fall out, and the rivet can be pulled out. Once out, remove the center pin. When reinstalling, insert the rivet, then lock it with the center pin.
Use bins or jars with lids to keep fasteners with panels. You'll never keep them all otherwise. You'll find that the hex-key bolts on painted surfaces have a nylon washer on them, so be sure to keep that straight, too.
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Mike-H
Independent
Do what ever floats your boat....lots of questions can be answered by using your search button.....if you can't find something shoot me a pm....I'm close (Oakville) if you have any real problems....otherwise enjoy yourself (I say this as we are getting our 1st snowstorm of the year here {between 6-8 inches} overnight.... :blink: .....
I usually put my bike(s) away early November, then slowly start riding (on good days) by the end of March.... 5 month deal. Some die hards, I am sure try and squeeze out more of a season here in southern Canada.
Richard
S76
Well-known member
I do the same thing. I don't remove the engine from the frame, but that's about all. I would suggest you get into the rear suspension. You'll find the bolts are corroded. Mine were starting after just the first summer! Especially the ones holding on the side stand. Clean, or replace, and coat them and the bores with grease. I would also suggest inspecting all of the light bulb sockets for corrosion. Mine was just starting after the first year. Little silicone grease inside halts it. Tappered roller bearings in the head are a big improvement for little cash. I also unplugged as many electrical connectors as I could and put silicone grease in them to prevent problems down the road.
While the header/cat is off, it will shine up real nice with some jewelers rouge and a cloth wheel on a die grinder. (It doesn't last long though) And the cans will shine like chrome if you use a car buffer on them. Trick is to clamp the buffer in the vise and hold the can to it, else they fly across the room!
While the header/cat is off, it will shine up real nice with some jewelers rouge and a cloth wheel on a die grinder. (It doesn't last long though) And the cans will shine like chrome if you use a car buffer on them. Trick is to clamp the buffer in the vise and hold the can to it, else they fly across the room!
SLK50
Well-known member
Since it hasn't been mentioned I'd add that the Factory Service Manual should make the entire process a lot less frustrating.
Take pictures of complex assemblies before disassembling. Don't tust your memory.
Use Zip-lok bags or muffin tins for small parts and label as you go. Fasteners, especially, may appear interchangable during reassembly.
I've had my 06 apart twice already, first time within two weeks of delivery just to "check" every fastener.
Must..resist....urge.....this......year........aarrgghh!!!!!!!!
Take pictures of complex assemblies before disassembling. Don't tust your memory.
Use Zip-lok bags or muffin tins for small parts and label as you go. Fasteners, especially, may appear interchangable during reassembly.
I've had my 06 apart twice already, first time within two weeks of delivery just to "check" every fastener.
Must..resist....urge.....this......year........aarrgghh!!!!!!!!
Zolton
Well-known member
I'm in Guelph and we got that blizzard big time. I got my '06 FJR Oct 21st of this year and was only able to go on one real good ride (5 day trip to Vermont). I've been waiting for this cold snap to go away for a while like last season so I can play again but I think winter is here to stay in these parts this year eh? :angry:
I guess I'll have to settle for tinkering with it in my garage till spring. It's frustrating to say the least!
OK, I'm off to shovel the driveway. <_<
Mike-H
Independent
Hey guys....there is always the bike show @ the convention centre this coming weekend (Dec 7-9th) so you can play lets pretend (while its snowing out.... :yahoo: )
Hear you with the shovelling... I live just west of Kitchener and it's just as bad here...
Yep, I am headed there myself on Saturday the 8th... I hope there won't be anymore snow storms until then....
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