FJRF009.2: "Intermittent Ground Wire Connection"

[Diablo1]

NHTSA safety recalls don’t expire. Yamaha is legally on the hook until they do the repair. I can find the wiring loom available on eBay, but I shouldn’t have to buy it. Once I get them to replace the loom, I will look at improvements for the other ground junctions, so it’s a permanent repair. Yamaha only credits the dealer with 2.9 hours to replace the wiring loom, so the dealers aren’t happy about doing the repair.

 

[RossKean]

NHTSA safety recalls don’t expire. Yamaha is legally on the hook until they do the repair.

I have done a little reading on the subject and I don't think Yamaha can be forced to offer a free repair indefinitely.  I wish you luck but you might have to pay for the work or you could find that parts aren't available through the manufacturer.

 

[Diablo1]

I have done a little reading on the subject and I don't think Yamaha can be forced to offer a free repair indefinitely.  I wish you luck but you might have to pay for the work or you could find that parts aren't available through the manufacturer.

Google tells me that NHTSA recall repairs are free up to 15 years after the vehicle was sold. Bike is 2006 model, and it’s now 2021. However, Yamaha paid the Wisconsin dealer in 2016 for the recall, but the work wasn’t done. When I bought the bike 2 years ago, Yamaha customer service told me the wiring loom was replaced in 2016 under the recall. In September 2020, the ignition switch failed and I discovered that the switch was original, and the wiring loom was also original. I called Yamaha customer service again to tell them the recalls were never done and the conversation was recorded. They were not interested in photos showing the wiring loom part# and switch, or that the steering neck serial# wasn’t stamped per the safety recall bulletin. I replaced the failed switch myself, rather than have the bike towed to a dealer. 

 

[RossKean]

Google tells me that NHTSA recall repairs are free up to 15 years after the vehicle was sold

I saw that as well as references to a 10 year time frame.  I also saw indications that, after a time, the manufacturer might make the repair but at your expense.  I never delved into legislation details so I don't know the "right" answer.  In any case, the apparent bogus claim about the original loom replacement may give you an extra bargaining chip.

It should be noted that with the original recall, the dealer had two options.  If the ground connector was apparently undamaged, they would just add a new sub-harness from S4.  That's what they did with my '07.  If the "spider" was heat-damaged or if there were indications of overheating in the vicinity of the grounding point, Yamaha would replace the entire wiring harness for the bike.  (They didn't repair damaged wires or sections.)  I expect this would be the updated design and might not have the expected S4 sub-harness. 

I don't know your details or proof but it IS possible that the entire wiring loom was replaced by the Wisconsin dealer.  Although far less common, there were a few spider failures in later years of Gen II bikes despite an improved harness.  So far, my 2011 is OK with just shy of 100,000 miles.

 

[Diablo1]

I don't know your details or proof but it IS possible that the entire wiring loom was replaced by the Wisconsin dealer.  Although far less common, there were a few spider failures in later years of Gen II bikes despite an improved harness.  So far, my 2011 is OK with just shy of 100,000 miles.

If the wiring loom was replaced in 2016, it wouldn’t have the part# for the original 2006 wiring loom on the yellow label. Same scenario for the ignition switch that they didn’t replace. New switch has a yellow band on the wire lead. Old switch didn’t have yellow band. All of this information taken from Yamaha’s recall bulletins. I am positive that neither recall was completed by the Wisconsin dealer. I don’t know if it was an honest mistake or fraud. But, I had 2 breakdowns on the road because of the switch and then the ground junction. Fortunately, no accidents. Think about what could happen if you’re riding at night on a curvy road in the country, and you suddenly lose the entire electrical system, no power, no shifting, no lights.

 

[RossKean]

and you suddenly lose the entire electrical system, no power, no shifting, no lights.

I hadn't noticed that you have an "AE".  Would it default to neutral allowing you to coast to a stop?

Anyway, I hope that Yamaha will fix you up.  If they don't, the repair isn't a huge deal to do yourself or by someone else if you aren't comfortable with that sort of stuff. 

I expect you will win if you can prove for sure that the claimed recall was never completed.  The only issue is whether they have a Gen II wiring harness available.  Once damaged, the "fix" is to replace the entire harness, not just add the S4 sub.

As I said before, "Good Luck"!

 

[Diablo1]

I don’t see how the AE would shift to neutral or pull in the clutch if the harness cuts all the electricity. I think you’re stuck in gear with engine dead and the rear wheel stopped and skidding. Not good.

 

[RossKean]

I don’t see how the AE would shift to neutral or pull in the clutch if the harness cuts all the electricity. I think you’re stuck in gear with engine dead and the rear wheel stopped and skidding. Not good.

Perhaps, but...

I would not expect complete and catastrophic failure of all electrical components at once and I assume the AE defaults to clutch pulled in the event of engine stalling.  Don't think I would care to simulate instantaneous total electrical failure on an AE just to satisfy my curiosity.

Anyway, you know you have a problem and you know it has to be fixed before you can count on riding safely.  Method and your cost (if any) to be determined.

Let us know what Yamaha will do for you.  Certainly repairable by yourself or a good independent shop, even if Yamaha won't replace the complete harness.  As I mentioned before, the recall procedure was to replace the entire main harness if the wiring had sustained damage - not just adding the small sub-harness from S4. 

 

[Diablo1]

Yesterday I took my bike back from the Yamaha dealer, while we wait for Yamaha to make a decision on whether they will replace the entire wire harness. I did a close examination of the S4 ground junction and found one of six pins was blackened from heat. I tried to clean it up a little by pushing the spider in and out a couple of times and then spraying some brake cleaner on the pins. I then removed the spider and connected the sub harness kit from the Yamaha safety recall. The connector fit properly after I trimmed a little melted plastic from the S4 connector with an exacto  knife. I rode the bike for 60 miles without any signs of trouble. In the future, I’ll add some ground connections to a few of the other ground junctions. But, I’ll wait until Yamaha makes a decision on the recall, as they will not honor the claim if there have  been any modifications to the harness.

 

[RossKean]

Good luck with it.  If the spider pin/receptacle have already been tarnished/oxidized, there is a good chance that your fix will only be temporary.  Keep an eye on it and hopefully Yamaha will come through with the replacement harness. 

 

[Diablo1]

Nearly two months with no word or decision from Yamaha. I’m not impressed with their customer service/support. In the meantime, I’ve put 1500 miles on the bike without a reoccurrence of the issue. I bought another ground sub harness on eBay and will add it in parallel to the one already installed on S4. The additional sub harness will go to one of the other problematic ground junctions and then directly to the battery negative terminal.

 

[rbentnail]

Your "fix" will be a lot more reliable and a lot less stress inducing if you'd cut out the offensive spider junction and solder the leads together

https://www.fjrowners.com/threads/the-ground-spider-comes-home-to-roost.120578/#post-909154

 

[Diablo1]

It’s all about reducing the current density at the S6 spider junction and also for the ground wire. If you solder the leads together, you eliminate the spider connection problem, but the single ground wire still has to carry all the current. My solution adds a parallel ground wire (actually 6 wires) with a crimped and soldered lug that is bolted to the frame on the left side of the steering neck. Then there is another wire and lug from there to the battery negative.

 

[mcatrophy]

... Then there is another wire and lug from there to the battery negative.

This wire is essentially in parallel with the original negative battery connection to the frame. Should the original connection to the frame work loose, the starter current will attempt to pass through your cable,. This risks burning your wire out and potentially a fire.

 

[Diablo1]

This wire is essentially in parallel with the original negative battery connection to the frame. Should the original connection to the frame work loose, the starter current will attempt to pass through your cable,. This risks burning your wire out and potentially a fire.

How likely is the original battery negative connection to the frame going to work loose? Seems like something I should check, clean and tighten. If I eliminate the additional wire from the frame to the battery negative, and keep the connection from the S6 ground junction to the frame, is that a potential problem?

 

[mcatrophy]

How likely is the original battery negative connection to the frame going to work loose? Seems like something I should check, clean and tighten. If I eliminate the additional wire from the frame to the battery negative, and keep the connection from the S6 ground junction to the frame, is that a potential problem?

It's unlikely, but it's a matter of risk against result.

Loose battery connections do happen, it is certainly possible for your wire remaining with a connection whilst the original loses a good connection.

I see nothing wrong with the arrangement without that additional frame-to-battery connection.

 

[Diablo1]

OK, I’ll get rid of the additional battery to frame connection. Can you tell me the location of the original battery ground on the frame or engine? I looked through the encyclopedia they call a service manual, and can’t find it.

 

[mcatrophy]

OK, I’ll get rid of the additional battery to frame connection. Can you tell me the location of the original battery ground on the frame or engine? I looked through the encyclopedia they call a service manual, and can’t find it.

Found this in my 2006 workshop manual, it's item 13. Seems to disappear somewhere under the crankcase, I couldn't see where the fastener to the engine/chassis is.

(Click on image for the original)

 

[RossKean]

Is this it? (#8) Or is that a different ground?

 

[Diablo1]

Thanks gentlemen. Maybe it is #8, or that might be the ground from the starter.

 

[mcatrophy]

I've never delved into that area, so I don't know. I would add that, unless they've been messed about with, it's unlikely the connections to engine and frame will give problems. It's only the battery terminals that are known to occasionally misbehave.