Flashing ABS and no brake light

[art miller]

My ABS light is flashing and I have no break lights. Have any of you with a Gen III bike had this situation? I tried to remove the bulbs but the wires are so short I could not pull the circuit out to change the bulbs. How do you get the bulbs out of this bike?

 

[RossKean]

Are you sure you have no brake lights as opposed to the brake lights on all the time? There is a possibility that the rear brake pivot is gummed and pedal isn't returning all the way. (If you can set the cruise control then this isn't the problem.) just a thought...

Yes, Yamaha saved 3 cents by making the wires to the rear bulbs (and elsewhere) as short as possible.

 

[rbentnail]

long handled straight jaw needle nosed pliers.

 

[rockdude]

Has the front break switch recall been done? That was the issue with mine the first time I replaced the switch on my own before the recall, and second time I replaced it with the new part number just before the recall came out.

 

[Blind Squirrel]

Check your fuses.

 

[art miller]

Thanks for the replies. I checked the rear brake pedal and it is fine. I have cleaned and lubricated it periodically. The brake light may be stuck in the on position as the tail lights are very bright. Yes I had the front brake switch replaced several months ago. I have an appoint meant with the Yamaha dealer Saturday morning. Hopefully an easy fix.

 

[art miller]

As a side note, this issue came just after having the dealer replace my original battery.

 

[RossKean]

As the saying goes - Problem is probably related to whatever was fucked with last.

Dealer might have messed up one of the connectors, pinched a wire or (more likely) popped a fuse while changing the battery. Will your cruise control engage? If it does, then it isn't a sticky brake or switch. Might be useful to know if both the taillights and brake lights are powered or not - can you see if both filaments are lit (dual filament 1157 bulb, I think)?

Be sure to post up once you find out the issue.

Note: To properly "fix" a sticky rear brake pedal, you have to physically remove it, clean the pivot and re-grease. Careful with the springs. Squirting a little lube in there will get you home but won't last. (Just sayin' - you may be doing it properly but I have seen people use a squirt of WD-40 and call it good.) Annual maintenance for me.

 

[Panman]

That sticky brake pedal deal can be dealt with by finding a small nylon/pvc tube and putting a zerk fitting in the hole thats on the inside then drilling a hole in the shaft for the grease to come thru.
Me thinks WD is for cleaning more than lubricating as it has some alcohol in it that flashes away leaving very little lubricant. No scientific data backs that, just my humble opinion.

 

[RossKean]

That sticky brake pedal deal can be dealt with by finding a small nylon/pvc tube and putting a zerk fitting in the hole thats on the inside then drilling a hole in the shaft for the grease to come thru.
Me thinks WD is for cleaning more than lubricating as it has some alcohol in it that flashes away leaving very little lubricant. No scientific data backs that, just my humble opinion.

The WD-40 will loosen it up and get you home but is far from an adequate solution; BTDT. After the propellant and solvent are gone, the residual lubricant is insufficient and too thin. Personally. I wouldn't bother with the zerk. Annual maintenance isn't a big deal. Takes me maybe 10-15 minutes and I am sure there is no dirt, grit, moisture or corrosion remaining. I do the brake pivot, shift linkage, front brake and clutch levers at the same time.

 

[art miller]

As the saying goes - Problem is probably related to whatever was fucked with last.

Dealer might have messed up one of the connectors, pinched a wire or (more likely) popped a fuse while changing the battery. Will your cruise control engage? If it does, then it isn't a sticky brake or switch. Might be useful to know if both the taillights and brake lights are powered or not - can you see if both filaments are lit (dual filament 1157 bulb, I think)?

Be sure to post up once you find out the issue.

Note: To properly "fix" a sticky rear brake pedal, you have to physically remove it, clean the pivot and re-grease. Careful with the springs. Squirting a little lube in there will get you home but won't last. (Just sayin' - you may be doing it properly but I have seen people use a squirt of WD-40 and call it good.) Annual maintenance for me.

Well, the reason the ABS was flashing and no brake lights was due to a blown fuse. The dealer fixed that but I am not sure the issue is resolved. When they did the valve check and put in a new batteryI think they may have pinched the wiring to my Denali running lights. On the ride home from the dealer I noticed when I turn them on and off the on light remain on. Now I'm hesitant to tun them on for fear it will blow the fuse again. Before going back to the dealer and spending more $$'s I am going to lift the tank and remove the left side panel and check the wires to ensure they are not crimped.

 

[RossKean]

Did the dealer charge you for "fixing" what he so evidently screwed up? Figure it out on your own if you can and go back with photographic evidence.

Are the lights on a relay or direct switch? If a relay, try giving it a tap - contacts may be fused together. Hope you find the problem...

Edit: I just noticed that you said the dealer did a valve check as well as the battery replacement. There is a possibility that they messed up something while getting the valve cover in and out. You might have to lift the tank and remove the T-bar and insulation to see if something is amiss there. I would check out the switch/relay for the lights first and check wiring in and around the battery and fuse box.

 

[art miller]

Did the dealer charge you for "fixing" what he so evidently screwed up? Figure it out on your own if you can and go back with photographic evidence.

Are the lights on a relay or direct switch? If a relay, try giving it a tap - contacts may be fused together. Hope you find the problem...

Edit: I just noticed that you said the dealer did a valve check as well as the battery replacement. There is a possibility that they messed up something while getting the valve cover in and out. You might have to lift the tank and remove the T-bar and insulation to see if something is amiss there. I would check out the switch/relay for the lights first and check wiring in and around the battery and fuse box.

Yes, the dealer charged me $75 for the fuse replacement. I will now do a check to see if there is a disruption of the wires. The running lights are connected to the battery.

 

[Blind Squirrel]

Check your fuses.

Well, the reason the ABS was flashing and no brake lights was due to a blown fuse. The dealer fixed that but I am not sure the issue is resolved. When they did the valve check and put in a new batteryI think they may have pinched the wiring to my Denali running lights. On the ride home from the dealer I noticed when I turn them on and off the on light remain on. Now I'm hesitant to tun them on for fear it will blow the fuse again. Before going back to the dealer and spending more $$'s I am going to lift the tank and remove the left side panel and check the wires to ensure they are not crimped.

You're welcome.