BwanaDik
Well-known member
Just finished installing the forks after having them rebuilt at GP suspension. This thread is mostly for documentation purposes as the topic has been covered before but I think I have a couple of better pictures showing the pinch bolt work.
Started out by taking a couple of shots of the way the brakes/cables were routed, just to be sure
Removing the lower pinch bolts from below
Removing the upper pinch bolts (be sure to have the forks supported! They may, although unlikely, slide down and out unexpectedly!)
Safety tip: Be sure that what ever you use to hold up the front of the bike stays where you think you put it. This is what I call my "Kneeling camel" look as the zillion year old Sears jack I was using had a leaky valve. It sank down during the night and thankfully the bike didn't fall over! Ya, I'm almost an idiot. I did use a block of wood under the headers to distribute the weight which probably also helped not having it fall over. Using the jack was good as I could jack up the bike until the rear tire touched. I then had plenty of room to slide the forks out.
New forks ready to go. You might check the "click" settings before installing them. Mine were different from side to side, I just set them the same and will do the "tuning" when I get to ride again.
I checked the deck heigth of the forks when I installed them. Before I took them out, I noticed they were not perfectly flush with the top of the triple clamp. There's a slight chamfer on the top of the forks so, if perfectly flush, the chamfer is below the deck, otherwise, the lower edge of the chamfer matches the top of the triple clamps and the forks are slightly raised. Probably doesn't matter at all, the point being to get them even, regardless of the relative position.
Checked the axle position, just for grins before I torqued everything up.
Torquing the lower pinch bolts from above
I use a Proto clicker torque wrench which seems to be a little lower profile that some others. I saw comments before about not being able to torque the pinch bolts, I think it's probably because the torque wrench was too fat.
Still in the middle of the never ending Soltek/Fuzeblock install so haven't had a chance to test them yet.
Summer in Houston is when we get all our maintenance done, too hot to ride!!! :blink:
Started out by taking a couple of shots of the way the brakes/cables were routed, just to be sure
Removing the lower pinch bolts from below
Removing the upper pinch bolts (be sure to have the forks supported! They may, although unlikely, slide down and out unexpectedly!)
Safety tip: Be sure that what ever you use to hold up the front of the bike stays where you think you put it. This is what I call my "Kneeling camel" look as the zillion year old Sears jack I was using had a leaky valve. It sank down during the night and thankfully the bike didn't fall over! Ya, I'm almost an idiot. I did use a block of wood under the headers to distribute the weight which probably also helped not having it fall over. Using the jack was good as I could jack up the bike until the rear tire touched. I then had plenty of room to slide the forks out.
New forks ready to go. You might check the "click" settings before installing them. Mine were different from side to side, I just set them the same and will do the "tuning" when I get to ride again.
I checked the deck heigth of the forks when I installed them. Before I took them out, I noticed they were not perfectly flush with the top of the triple clamp. There's a slight chamfer on the top of the forks so, if perfectly flush, the chamfer is below the deck, otherwise, the lower edge of the chamfer matches the top of the triple clamps and the forks are slightly raised. Probably doesn't matter at all, the point being to get them even, regardless of the relative position.
Checked the axle position, just for grins before I torqued everything up.
Torquing the lower pinch bolts from above
I use a Proto clicker torque wrench which seems to be a little lower profile that some others. I saw comments before about not being able to torque the pinch bolts, I think it's probably because the torque wrench was too fat.
Still in the middle of the never ending Soltek/Fuzeblock install so haven't had a chance to test them yet.
Summer in Houston is when we get all our maintenance done, too hot to ride!!! :blink:
