Fork tube stuck

[not2shabby]

Ok, so I'm slide hammering the bushings and seals out when I realize I didn't remove the clip on the oil seal. Bad #1. Then I start hitting the fork bottom on the floor thinking it'll drive the seal down enough so I can get the clip out. Bad #2. Now the fork tube is stuck in the collapsed position. Can't even rotate it. Any ideas? Heat? Cold? Quit doing projects I haven't done before? Hep me....

Go ahead...It's almost Friday!

Thanks!

 

[FJRBluesman]

:blink: :blink: :dribble:

Bummer.

Sorry, I got nothin'....

 

[RossKean]

Ok, so I'm slide hammering the bushings and seals out when I realize I didn't remove the clip on the oil seal. Bad #1. Then I start hitting the fork bottom on the floor thinking it'll drive the seal down enough so I can get the clip out. Bad #2. Now the fork tube is stuck in the collapsed position. Can't even rotate it. Any ideas? Heat? Cold? Quit doing projects I haven't done before? Hep me....
Go ahead...It's almost Friday!

Thanks!

I'm guessing that a little heat might help - don't cook the seals or char the remaining oil.

If that doesn't work, you're forked.

 

[ngarider]

Put the fork in a vise, clamped by the leg, nut the upper tube. Apply heat gradually, and attempt to move the tube. If it's still not working, there are only 2 options I know of:

PM HaulinAshe. He's like Obi-Wan, he's your last hope without shipping the fork.

 

[Threepointlanding]

Could alway take the fork into your local dealer, which I know no one wants to do and see if they have a trick. You know they've done it before, and not on purpose.

No way to get any vibration on the other side of that tube huh....hmmm

 

[Zorlac]

What if you pulled #13, screwed in a hose fitting of some type and started applying compressed air?

Worst case, at least it's only a $500 eff up. :headbonk:

 

[not2shabby]

That's crossed my mind...the compressed air and the $$$ FU. Cheapcycleparts.com has the 2 pieces for about $330.

I think I'll drop it off at Iron Pony service and see what they think. ****.

 

[HaulinAshe]

BTDT

You won't get compressed air to do anything. Last time I dealt with that problem it took a 12-ton shop press just to nudge the fork.

What's happened is the bottom bushing has slipped partially off the lower fork tube and wedged tight. Your only hope for separating the pieces is to fabricate some type of clamp to hold the upper/inner tube tight enough to beat/bang/pull the two tubes apart.

I used a spare triple clamp and clamped it around the upper/inner tube with the fork cap screwed in. Then two large rednecks beat the crap outta the triple clamp (with the lower fork tube clamped in a big vise attached to a big workbench).

If your seal is still in place, you'll need to get it out somehow first. Otherwise that thing will likely never come apart without ruining both tubes.

Wish I had better news, but it may become an expensive learning experience.

 

[not2shabby]

****.

Headed to Iron Pony.

Thanks everybody.

 

[not2shabby]

Update....YES!!!! They have a special rubber coated vise to hold fork tubes, the guy put the upper tube in there and put several half inch socket extension together and put them in and pounded the outer tube off. The oil seal and bushings stayed in the tube, but I think i can get them out. I just might get er done tonite.

Lesson learned...when you're getting tired, it's time to quit.

 

[Threepointlanding]

Sweet!!! Good news is good news!

 

[not2shabby]

Well, the saga isn't quite over yet, it took an hour or so to pry the oil seal out and now the top bushing won't budge. It's in the 100 degree C oven at work now. Maybe that'll work.

Oh, and Haulin', you were right. I can see the bottom bushing and it's squished on one side where it slid out of it's groove.

 

[Donal]

Update....YES!!!! They have a special rubber coated vise to hold fork tubes, the guy put the upper tube in there and put several half inch socket extension together and put them in and pounded the outer tube off. The oil seal and bushings stayed in the tube, but I think i can get them out. I just might get er done tonite.
Lesson learned...when you're getting tired, it's time to quit.

Now, if only I Could figure out a way to remember that lesson just when I need it most! :dribble:

Don

 

[HaulinAshe]

In case it makes you feel any better...

If there are lots of miles on those bushings, the bottom bushing will sometimes do that even if you've done everything right. Because it's worn so thin from mileage that it will actually fit in the available space (where it's not supposed to fit).

The Yamaha procedure for disassembling the forks calls for "blowing" the seals out first. It's a messy procedure, but necessary if you don't want to be in the position of beating forks apart or possibly buying new ones.

 

[not2shabby]

Ahhh, sweet success! I ran down to maintenance and asked a buddy if they had anything that might pull that first bushing out. Voila! An adjustable slide hammer worked like a charm. I'm surprised the inside tube surface looks fine.

Ya know, it might have happened anyway like you say, my bushings were pretty bad. The bottom one looked the best though. The top ones had NO teflon on the outsides. I don't know if the PO ever had them changed, but I doubt it. Bike now has about 35k on her. So, if anybody's been neglecting their fork maintenance, you might want to get-er-done!

 

[HaulinAshe]

... The top ones had NO teflon on the outsides....

The top and middle bushings are not supposed to have Teflon on the outside. They are only coated on the inside surface with Teflon because that's the side that contacts the moving inner fork tube. Only the bottom bushing is Teflon coated on the outside.

Save that mangled bottom bushing as a reminder why next time you should take the time to follow the Yami service manual and blow the seals out first. Nobody should miss out on suspension fluid oozing like a BP oil spill.

 

[Zoom Zoom]

Lesson learned...when you're getting tired, it's time to quit.

Brother:

I also learned a lesson: Don't drink while working on a bike.

I know , I know , I have blundered so many times that I lost count.

In any case don't lose heart, do the DIY as much as you can. DIY and riding pleasure goes hand in hand.

ZoomZoom

 

[dcarver]

Wow, HA with yet another great Tech Advice Tip.

Hey Jeff, you need to to move into the next door property so we can be buds. :lol:

 

[not2shabby]

Final note.Ok, Friday nite I think I'll get it buttoned back up. Thought I had 2 quarts of fork oil...turns out I only had 1 and and 1/2. Of course I find this out at 7:50 pm. Iron Pony closes at 8. Damn. I had to sand off 2 or 3 mm of material from the compression valve because where the guy pounded the tubes apart it wouldn't fit in the hole at the bottom of the fork tube. You could see the imprints from where he pounded the socket extensions were. Anyway, Saturday morning I run over and get another quart of oil and get everything back together; finally. We're talking 3 nites after work and an hour or so Sat morning. But ya know what? It was so F'n worth it! I don't know how much to attribute to the new bushings or the new RT springs and valves, but OMG; the difference in the front end is nothing short of amazing. I was more than a little sceptical about doing it because I didn't think the stock forks were that bad. Wrong. I took a nice long ride Sat afternoon and after a few minutes, I was looking for bumps to run over! The harder I rode it, the better it felt; literally on rails in the corners. The only thing I've changed from their suggested settings is 5 clicks more rebound damping, it was a little 'bouncy' at 15 clicks out. I'm totally impressed. Thanks to everyone who's helped/recommended along the way.

I'll try and post some pics of the old bushings when I'm sober....they were so toast!

One more thing; the front feels better than the rear now...ya think it's time to service the Penske?!

I do!