Front Bearings

[twistedcricket]

My front wheel bearings (at least one side) are shot...I've searched locally to get them by this Friday but it seems I'm hosed...no one can cross-reference the yamaha part number. I've called Napa/AutoZone/Adv Aut/O'Rielly's/Carquest and a few hydraulic/bearing shops in town.

My only reference to other part numbers is HERE but even those p/n's aren't working.

I've called Gary McCoy; he was my first call, but he can't get them to me by Friday.

I do have a spare front wheel/tire showing up from 4KLESS (a great guy!) and should be able to get home. However, I would like to replace the bearings and only use his tire if necessary.

Does anyone have a better cross-reference???

TIA

 

[mdisher]

https://www.goallballs.com/Bearings_Seals.asp?page=WBK

Seeing as how this is Tuesday, I would expect All Balls could get them to you.

they have a stupid configurator so I couldn't link directly to them.

ALLBALLS PART # 25-1403

Print Results

Whl Brg - Seal Kit - Front

Distributor Name Distributor Reference #

Parts Unlimited 0215-0065

Motovan 125-1403

Marshall 12-5545

Western Power Sports 22-51403

GAMMA 25-1403

Tucker Rocky 41-3414

KK 6700-203

Parts Unlimited A25-1403

Cost MSRP: $26.31

All Balls Racing Products

822 North Reading Avenue P.O.Box 437

New Berlinville, PA 19545

Phone: (610) 473-0505

Fax: (888) 552-0557 or (610) 473-8411

 

[olsonm3915]

You don't need a better cross-reference, you just need to go to an industrial bearing house, tell them you need two 60/22 dual sealed bearings, 44mm OD, 22mm ID, 12mm thick. Unless that is a truly weird size they'll have them in stock. Most of these places are happy to sell to the general public at their city desk. It's how I *always* buy motorcycle wheel bearings, and sometimes steering head bearings too. Fire up google maps, center it on your area, put "bearings" in the search box. Get on the phone, call a couple places. You'll probably be surprised at how reasonable the price is.

FWIW here's an online supplier that sells a pair of them for $14.95.

https://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/22mm/Kit6971

 

[twistedcricket]

Mr Disher, you rock.

Their website wasn't letting me order so I called them. Hopefully this works!

 

[twistedcricket]

You don't need a better cross-reference, you just need to go to an industrial bearing house, tell them you need two 60/22 dual sealed bearings, 44mm OD, 22mm ID, 12mm thick. Unless that is a truly weird size they'll have them in stock. Most of these places are happy to sell to the general public at their city desk. It's how I *always* buy motorcycle wheel bearings, and sometimes steering head bearings too. Fire up google maps, center it on your area, put "bearings" in the search box. Get on the phone, call a couple places. You'll probably be surprised at how reasonable the price is.
FWIW here's an online supplier that sells a pair of them for $14.95.

https://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/22mm/Kit6971

that was suggested and I did that (however, I didn't have those sizes). No one was able to pull up a 60/22. I've order a kit (complete set) for $30 from goallballs.com and I'll post when i get them and try to install them.

I'll look at that link as well. I'll probably build up the 'spare parts' spreadsheet

 

[olsonm3915]

From the Dennis Kirk website:

All Balls Front Wheel Bearing and Seal Kit

Dennis Kirk Part #: 122404

Manufacturer Part #: 251403

Choose a sku:

Your Price: $25.99

Low Price Guarantee (details)

I love Dennis Kirk, mostly because I can pick up parts in person 7 days a week, they're about 60 miles from me. They're quite close to Eau Claire so if you order from them today the parts will be there tomorrow or Thursday. For sure they would be there by Friday. DK aren't cheap but they have tons of stock and ship immediately.

 

[twistedcricket]

well I have the wheel off and bearings out. The SM says to use a general bearing puller to get the bearings out, but I don't know how that's going to work. It's a smooth cylinder without anywhere for the 'teeth' of the puller to latch on to. The axle sleeve sitting in there prevents that.

Has anyone done this? what tricks/tips can you pass along? Thanks

 

[NYPete]

I haven't had any experience with the FJR wheel directly yet, but I have replaced wheel bearings in other bikes, Japanese and American. From the looks of the schematic on the Yamaha parts site, it would appear they're the same as most wheel bearings. Seal, bearing, spacer, bearing and seal. You should be able to offset the spacer in the hub with a screwdriver or prybar between the bearings giving enough room to get a small claw puller in there. The wheels I've worked on the spacer was just a inteference fit between the bearings or it was loose enough to move it slightly to fit a small puller in. The other method I used(once on the road) is that once the spacer is offset, using a long flat faced punch and tapping lightly all around the inner race slowly, evenly and methodically to push the bearing out, being extremely careful not to damage the bearing mounting surface on the wheel or even take it slightly out of round. If you see any aluminum shaving at all...STOP. Time consuming, but it has worked. Hope this helps.

NYPete

 

[Geezer]

I haven't looked at the FJR bearing specifically, but normally when I replace bearings there are a couple of slots behind the bearing that you can see from the opposite side of the wheel, looking in through where the axel goes through. You can use a drift of some sort and tap the bearing out from the back. Also, I normally use the old race against the new bearing to protect it as I tap the new one in.

 

[WBill]

Isn't a 2007 kind of young to have the wheel bearings wear out? Were you riding through salt water or something? WBill

 

[Bionic Pelvis]

The front wheel bearings on these don't have a shoulder where you can drive them out from the other side. You need a bearing puller, but the FJR front requires a totally oddball (21.9mm) puller. I had to order it in special and have never used it for anything else, so I'm gonna guess that most non-Yamaha mechanics aren't going to have it just lying around.

If you find someone really cool & explain you're in a pinch, they may be willing to grind down a larger puller. (I've done that to get guys back on the road, then sold them the puller so I could replace the one I ground down.) If you're lucky & your bearings weren't installed totally snug last time, you may be able to weasel around behind them until you can get a little room to drive them out, but I wouldn't bank on that.

This is what the bearing puller looks like:

https://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/...g_remover_sets/

Good luck!

 

[gearman]

You can add a 22mm adapter to this set for $10.

pitposse

Maybe it will or can be modified to work.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

My front wheel bearings (at least one side) are shot...

If the bearings on one side are "shot" -- the other side's bearing may be 'suspect', too. They're connected by, and supported by, the front axle -- so, it's conceivable the other bearing could've had undue stress forces applied?

But... (if you don't mind telling?), what happened? M/C wheel bearings (at least the sealed/shielded, or half-sealed, ball bearings on modern motorcycles (IME) are extremely long lived. What kind of front wheel stresses would contribute to a "shot" front wheel bearing? Do you have a 'ton' of miles?

In any event -- be very cautious of "broaching" the hub and thereby rendering the wheel, essentially, 'worthless'.

 

[Bionic Pelvis]

You can add a 22mm adapter to this set for $10.pitposse

Maybe it will or can be modified to work.

That's where I got mine from! For the life of me I couldn't remember. What arrived was marked 21.9mm, but regardless it does the job.

Thanks for finding that!

 

[twistedcricket]

To answer a few questions;

31387 miles

I was on a right-hand sweeper and hit something. My pillion later said she came off the seat. It was a solid hit, whatever it was.

I'm not 100% sure it is the bearings, but there is a noise only while rolling. The rotors are (worn) not grooved, the brake pads aren't pitted or holding any rocks, the bike stops just fine. It happens either in a straight line or turning. Noticeable feeling through the handlebars.

The wheel is off. The axle isn't broken. one of the wheel bearings has an indent (the soft cover area).

I am replaing both bearings and seals. I have a 3-jaw puller from Harbor Freight and I'm frustrated with it. I can't pull these out at all. I was tempted to find something which I could pound them out from the opposite side, but I'm worried that I'll just damage the wheel. I'll look into either of these tools listed, but would someone mind shipping theirs to me? I'll cover shipping both ways.

 

[olsonm3915]

I've replaced wheel bearings in many different Japanese bikes. I have never used a puller. The puller in the manual isn't a 3-jaw type- it's an expanding collet style. You probably don't need it anyway. The normal method of getting wheel bearings out is to work the spacer to one side and drive the bearing out by hitting the inner race with a drift. Once you move one of the bearings just a little the spacer will move far enough to one side that you can get a pretty clear shot at the inner race. Just be careful not to get the bearing cockeyed while it's coming out or you can ruin the wheel.

I just ordered the bearing remover set plus the 22mm adapter mentioned earlier in this thread, $60.85 including shipping, not that I need it or anything but I've never liked whacking at bearings off center and this should allow them to come out nice and straight.

Good luck.

 

[dwhartwell]

I've replaced wheel bearings in many different Japanese bikes. I have never used a puller. The puller in the manual isn't a 3-jaw type- it's an expanding collet style. You probably don't need it anyway. The normal method of getting wheel bearings out is to work the spacer to one side and drive the bearing out by hitting the inner race with a drift. Once you move one of the bearings just a little the spacer will move far enough to one side that you can get a pretty clear shot at the inner race. Just be careful not to get the bearing cockeyed while it's coming out or you can ruin the wheel.
I just ordered the bearing remover set plus the 22mm adapter mentioned earlier in this thread, $60.85 including shipping, not that I need it or anything but I've never liked whacking at bearings off center and this should allow them to come out nice and straight.

Good luck.

Never tried this but when you "whack them out" in this manner, be sure you move one side just a bit, then move the punch/drift 180 degrees to the other side of the bearing and hit it again. In this manner you are SLOWLY rocking it out without placing any large force on the hub that contains the bearing.

They key here is to do it slowly. May take 20 20-30 small light hits on each side to get it out. You can always turn the wheel over and take a look at how the bearing is exiting the hub. You should never see the bearing cocked in the hub. If you do, your hitting it too hard on one side. Good luck

 

[Bounce]

Seems $60 is cheaper than the cost of shop time for someone else to do it for you. Consider the puller and investment and that you've saved total costs on the first job that will accumulate on following jobs if they come up again.

 

[olsonm3915]

Seems $60 is cheaper than the cost of shop time for someone else to do it for you. Consider the puller and investment and that you've saved total costs on the first job that will accumulate on following jobs if they come up again.

That's good advice in general (and it's why I ordered the puller set myself before I need it) but IIRC in this specific case twistedcricket is working on his bike away from home and probably wants to get the new bearings in today, so he doesn't have time to wait for delivery. There's no question the only way it's probably going to get done today is with a drift. Sounds like what he really needs is someone who has replaced bearings before to help him out. I'm roughly 110 miles from Eau Claire and don't feel like riding in the chilly weather today without heated grips or I would volunteer to help him out.