Fuel Stabilizer

[Checkswrecks]

There are people who live this stuff and I had to look into what they do, a few years ago. IMHO Kaelaria got the right bottom line, that stabillizer can't hurt, even though you may not need it. Or it may be a really good idea. It totally depends on the last gas that you put in your tank.

Gas varies drastically between brands, times of the year, and very much upon the tanker that it came in on. You folks in Cali are screwed beyond all of us, in that your pollution requirements mean that you get a different sulfur and additives content that is California-specific. Your fuels are really hard on seals. Some of the petroleum coming from the south Pacific into the Cali refineries can actually leave a semi-conductive film.

The New England states mostly start with a South American or middle-eastern petroleum that is better balanced, but most of those states have started to mandate an alchohol content (super-easy step into never-ending pointless discussion on this). There is also a huge change in additive packages between summer and winter. So while the base stock is better, you guys may begin to experience more and more fuel system corrosion and alky-related problems. Or not. And stabilizer can make almost as big a difference as for the Californians. Or not. Again, the where and when can make a huge difference.

The small-engine shops are the tip of the spear on this one. If your area is bad, they're the ones who will know first.

Bob

 

[dgfella]

I'm in the better safe than sorry camp as well. I've used it in my carb bikes for years, regretted it when I didn't remember, and want the best for the FJR.

 

[Harald]

I'm one of those riding fanatics, so my FJR gets ridden year 'round (although I probably shouldn't have ridden yesterday because it came real close to snowing). With fresh gas going in at least once a week there's no need for stabilizer.

But I swear by Stabil for my tractor and other lawn equipment. I automatically add Stabil to gas cans when I fill them year 'round. It doesn't prove anything, but I've had no fuel related problems with my lawn equipment.

 

[Bluegrass FJR]

I've used it for years in all my bikes, riding mowers, etc... It must work - I've never had a problem with any of them. My bikes always start immediately when bringing them out of winter storage.

 

[Fred W]

I've used it for years in all my bikes, riding mowers, etc... It must work - I've never had a problem with any of them. My bikes always start immediately when bringing them out of winter storage.

Post Hoc Ergo Propter Hoc

 

[ELP_JC]

My bikes always have stabil since mile 1. I may ride again the next day, or the next month, so one more of the 'better safe than sorry' camp.

The main thing with Stabil, which hasn't been mentioned, is to use it with FRESH FUEL. And as mentioned, keep the tank as full as possible to minimize condensation and evaporation. With today's gas prices, that stuff is dirt cheap by comparison, especially if bought in the 32-oz bottles from Walmart. Later.

JC

 

[Tbird]

I'm with Harold on this one...

I just swap out the fuel once a week...whether it needs it or not.

(To drain the tank I just run the fuel through the TBs and then refill )

Living in El Paso...I ride the FJR nearly every day...YiPPIE!

 

[CRMH Eagle]

Here's my 4 cents worth (rumors of recession so prices goes up).

I've had fuel break down on me when mowers were stored for the winter.

A buddy of mine who is an engineer did some research on the matter and learned that fuel can "deteriorate" over time. He learned interesting facts:

* Fuel that has an octane rating on the pump was indeed 93 or whatever at production. But the octane level goes lower over time. So you can shell out (pun intended) extra for the higher octane but it's possible you can get a lower octane than what is advertised.

* Gas stations buy fuel from competitors. My sister always gets Texaco cuz she thinks it is the best. When I told her that it's highly likely the fuel at that Texaco station can be from BP or Shell she goes into denial. At the time of the research (years ago) only Amoco octane 93 was the only "pure" gas remaining...that if you bought Amoco octane 93 you were indeed buying Amoco 93 gas. Since BP bought Amoco who knows what's happenned to Amoco octane 93.

* Advertised cleaners in gas: all major production facilities put these ingredients into gas. One reason cuz it helps dilute the product making more money for the gas company. So don't buy into the marking of this stuff.

So if you've got some personal issue about buying a certain name brand of gas then get over yourself.

Back to the mower... so I'm trying to get the mower ready for summer cutting. It won't start. I change the plug. I add a starter fluid to the carb. I added Heet. Nothing. Finally I got wise and emptied the gas. Fresh gas & Heet. It cranked right up. Since then I don't store gas for more than 30 days w/out something in it. I use Heet and Stabil. They are so friggen cheap. I also agree with topping off the tank as much as possible to keep condensation from forming.

Several years ago my car was sidelined cuz water was in the gas. It wasn't until I turned the engine with the plugs out one by one and probably a gallon of Heet, changing fuel filter, spraying down the carb, that it cranked. So every now and then I put Heet in my vehicles. It may not do any good, I don't know. But I'd hate to go thru that episode again and not have used Heet wondering if it would've helped.

Heet and Stabil are so cheap why are people wondering about using it? This is a no brainer.

 

[jestal]

One thing that does work for storage is the two stroke premix oil. The last time you ride before storage put enough two stroke premix oil in the tank to get a 20:1/32:1 premix ratio and ride for while to warm things up. Easy and quick way to "fog" the engine and leave a residual oil coating on internal engine parts and inside the carb bowls/jets/orifices if so equipped. Been using the approach on all sorts of engines for 30 years and never had a single problem.

This is especially helpful on a lot of two stroke engines as the oil on most of them is injected directly into the crankcase this bypassing the carb. Mixing premix into the tank before storage (and running long enough to circulate thru the system thoroughtly) coats the carb internals with a thin film of oil that prevents deposits from forming.

My personal experience is the same as the test results I have seen at work: Stabil is a feel-good item that does little or nothing. Best thing is that is doesn't really hurt anything but it is unlikely that it is really doing anything to stablize fuel or prevent deposit formation during storage.

Keep in mind that you have an electric fuel pump in the tank on an FJR (or other fuel injected systems) and that the gasoline routes directly thru the fuel pump armature windings (to cool the pump.) Any solvent related additives of any sort can easily damage the insulation on the armature windings leading to fuel pump failure. This risk is mitigated somewhat by the dilution of the additive/solvent in daily operation and occasionall use of the additive but you do NOT want to add any sort of solvent to the fuel for storage when it can saturate the fuel pump armature windings for a long period of time. Just do not risk it. This is why some people have had good luck with some solvents for storage with carbs and why it can then cause problems with fuel injection systems due to the electric pump added to the system.

Fuel tanks these days are pretty much sealed and not vented directly. The idea of water building up from a non-full tank is an old wives tale because of this. First, little or no air from the atmosphere gets into the tank. Even if it does, imagine the tiny tiny amount of actual liquid water in the water vapor from 3 or 4 gallons of even humid "air." Just not something to worry about. If you get water in the tank (and it is common) it comes from the fuel station and water leaking into their tanks. To prevent it and allow piece of mind use a gas anti-feeze that is isopropanol alcohol. Read the bottle. Don't use the low price Heet or other gas line antifreeze as it is usually methanol and coulc be corrosive to the fuel pump, injectors, etc. Always use the more expensive gas line anti-freeze which is isopropanol alcohol...i.e....rubbing alcohol. Smell the gas line antifeeze and it will smell just like rubbing alcohol if it is the right stuff. Most of the stuff in a red bottle is iso and anything with "iso" in the name is another clue....but read the bottle to make sure. Isopropanol is one of the very very few "additives" that has a purpose and really works. It will keep the water out of the system by reducing the surface tension of the water low enough to be pulled thru the system and burned and not let it freeze in the process.

Another good thing about prepping with two stroke pre-mix is that it will also coat the inside of the fuel tank and prevent any concerns about corrosion of the steel tank if stored with a low fuel level. I store my bikes in my basement so I don't like the idea of full fuel tanks sitting downstairs. They always get stored empty and I have never had a problem with the fuel or the tanks as long as I prep with two stroke oil. This includes a 1978 XS1100 with 110K on it and a 79 CBX that have both been stored repeatedly with two stroke premix.

As long as the fuel is stored in a sealed container it will last a very very long time. The idea of it breaking down in days or months is a myth. Maybe after 3 or 4 years....... As long as it is sealed it is fine. Open containers are a different story but sealed cans or sealed fuel tanks are fine.

We did a lot of research on two stroke oils and one of the best out there is also one of the cheapest. Citgo Superguard "Sea and Snow" is about $11.00 per gallon at most discount stores and it is an excellent oil for any two stroke and for prepping with premix.

 

[Zolton]

At this point I'd like to direct your attention to my signature line...

 

[CRMH Eagle]

Jestal,

Can I just use rubbing alcohol? Would that suffice? I don't think there's any additives in it besides alcohol.

On the premix oil, I'm not understanding you on how much to put in the fjr tank. Is it 20:1 or 31:1? And do you know how much that is so I don't have to get out my calculator? I've heard of others using premix for storage. Right now there's only 1/8 gallon of gas in my tank and haven't filled it back up. Up here in Colorado the air is dry and thus haven't been concerned with condensation.

 

[jestal]

Jestal,
Can I just use rubbing alcohol? Would that suffice? I don't think there's any additives in it besides alcohol.

On the premix oil, I'm not understanding you on how much to put in the fjr tank. Is it 20:1 or 31:1? And do you know how much that is so I don't have to get out my calculator? I've heard of others using premix for storage. Right now there's only 1/8 gallon of gas in my tank and haven't filled it back up. Up here in Colorado the air is dry and thus haven't been concerned with condensation.

Look at the label on rubbing alcohol bottles.......it is NOT 100% isopropanol. I've seen everything from 50% to 95%.....the rest is water. So....no....do not use commercially available "rubbing alcohol" Most any autoparts or discount store has iso- type fuel line antifreeze that is 100% isopropanol.

I don't think the pre-mix ratio is that important. Anything from 20:1 to 32:1 is fine. 20:1 is pretty "rich" pre-mix so I would only use it for storage prep. A gallon is 128 ounces so 20:1 would be 6.4 ounces of oil added to one gallon of fuel....plan accordingly. If that seems a bit fat on oil for your tastes then 32:1 would be 4 ounces of oil per gallon of gasoline. Sounds like you might have between 1/2 and 1 gallon of fuel in the tank? Add 5 ounces of oil and shake the tank around to mix it. Turn the key on and off several times to cycle the fuel pump to run the premix thru the fuel lines and rail. I wouldn't start the engine at this point as you'll do more harm than good...i.e...it will put a lot of water and combustion byproducts into the oil and lots of H2O in the exhaust system. That is the nice thing about using a full tank of premix for the last ride before storage because it will put a film of oil on the insides of the combustion chamber and the exhaust system. Too late to do that without a ride. Plan on it next year and just cycle it thru the fuel system by activating the fuel pump a few times without starting the engine this year.