FZ-1 Fuzeblock questions

[Auron]

Should the relay be warm to the touch after install? Just sitting in the garage is it's definitly making a bit of heat.

When I install the my main in-line fuse right next to positive battery terminal it crackles a couple of times before stopping. Not sure if I did things right.

Thanks!

 

[RossKean]

Should the relay be warm to the touch after install? Just sitting in the garage is it's definitly making a bit of heat.
When I install the my main in-line fuse right next to positive battery terminal it crackles a couple of times before stopping. Not sure if I did things right.

Thanks!

Is this with ignition on or off? Ignition off, the relay should not be activated. It should be triggered with something (i.e. tail lights) that are only on when the ignition is on. Some people use headlights to trigger so the relay will only be on when the engine has actually been started. An activated relay will be warm, even if there is nothing hooked up to it since there is some current used to activate the relay. Shouldn't be VERY warm, however. If yours is warm with the ignition off, you have used the wrong source to trigger it!

 

[Auron]

Ignition off. Not hot at all but disconcerningly warm,

Would this explain the mild crackling when inserting the fuse?

 

[Pterodactyl]

Crackle'n ain't good either. Double check your install.

 

[SilverHound]

That doesn't seem right at all. Heat would seem to indicate power draw with ignition off. My Fuzeblock does not behave this way. It sounds like you have your battery connected to the relay trigger input perhaps?

 

[ionbeam]

The relay should be pretty easy to get wired correctly. Crackling/sparking shouldn't happen unless there is current being drawn, lots of current. With the key off there should be ZERO current on the +12V Switched Source wire if it is actually wired to a power source that is switched with the key.

The relay coil is 144 ohms so even at 14 volts it draws 0.097 amps which is <1.4 watts so there should be virtually no heat. If your FZ-1 is wired like the above picture and still gets hot, remove the battery wires to the block (to protect things) and send an email to: [email protected] and describe your problem. Relays are almost never bad when new so something may be wrong with your fuse block or your install. On the fuse block, D1 and D2 are there to ensure that your wiring is polarized correctly and they could cause crackling and heat if your battery voltage is wired backwards, but I would expect the fuse between the battery and the fuse block to blow too.

 

[Auron]

Excellent post thank you. With everything off, the (+VT) lights up my test light. I'll check it off when I get home.

 

[Pterodactyl]

Hey, he said exactly what I would have said if I had thought of it... ever.

 

[Auron]

My Dad actually did the install with me. The reason he used switched VT as well as the un-switched was to distribute the load but I guess you can't do it that way. We have:

1) Heated jacket & gloves

2) Heated pants

3) Radar

4) USB

5) Grips

Will this be OK?

 

[ionbeam]

Let me offer some generic numbers. I chose Gerbing for jacket/pants/gloves; mid pack radar detector, typical grips and a high rate USB port. Heated gloves AND heated grips?

Garmin GPS 18 watts 1.5 amps
Gerbing Jacket 77 watts 6.4 amps
Gerbing Pants 77 watts 6.4 amps
heated grips 40 watts 3.3 amps
gloves 20 watts 1.7 amps
radar <6 watts <1 amp continuous
USB <6 watts <1 amp continuous

If everything is turned on at once and run at 100% power you would be drawing 244 watts. A Gen I might give you 100 watts at >4k rpm but way less at idle. A Gen II may give you ~200 watts at 4k rpm. If you have a Gen I, a higher output stator like an Electrosport sounds like a good idea but expect it to only last about 50k miles. Short stator life is what you get when cramming an extra 100 watts out of the stock location.

Loose either the gloves or grips. The USB will draw almost nothing unless something is plugged into it. Find out what your heated gear really draws. Get a volt meter, hook it directly to the battery and be sure that it stays 13.2 volts or higher. Consider adding LED conspicuousness lights and a tail light brake flasher.

All the power passing through the FZ-1 is coming from the single battery wire, it won't make any difference if the items are on the switched or unswitched fuses. The only difference would be when you forgot to turn off something that was coming off an unswitched fuse. Then you will wish you had also installed a charger pig-tail off the battery

 

[BigOgre]

My Dad actually did the install with me. The reason he used switched VT as well as the un-switched was to distribute the load but I guess you can't do it that way.

I think I may be reading this wrong so just want to confirm something: Do you have a power lead, maybe directly from the battery, to both the +12VDC and the +VT terminals?

 

[RossKean]

In reality, the jacket, gloves, grips and pants won't be on all together since the controllers "pulse" the power at anything less than 100% full on. The AVERAGE power won't be the 244 watts that Ionbeam mentions. Maybe if it's REALLY cold? In any case, if you are considering 25% on vs 75% off for a moderately cool day, the average for the heated stuff is 204/4 = 51 watts. Total average power is likely within the capability of your charging system but the Fuzeblock (and the main fuse) have to be sized for the maximum possible in case all of the heat controllers manage to get in synch for a bit.

 

[Auron]

My Dad actually did the install with me. The reason he used switched VT as well as the un-switched was to distribute the load but I guess you can't do it that way.

I think I may be reading this wrong so just want to confirm something: Do you have a power lead, maybe directly from the battery, to both the +12VDC and the +VT terminals?

Yes two different fused wires. One going to the +12VDC and one to the +VT. Like I said I think he did that to disperse the load but I could be wrong he knows WAY more than I do.

I'm using this on a ZX14 with 490watts. Would only be using my heated gear on the lowest setting and everything else would be off.

 

[SilverHound]

If memory serves me, the Fuzeblock is only rated for 30 Amps total and a max of 10 amps per circuit so running all your heated clothes on one circuit would exceed the single circuit spec.

 

[ionbeam]

My Dad actually did the install with me. The reason he used switched VT as well as the un-switched was to distribute the load but I guess you can't do it that way.

I think I may be reading this wrong so just want to confirm something: Do you have a power lead, maybe directly from the battery, to both the +12VDC and the +VT terminals?

Yes two different fused wires. One going to the +12VDC and one to the +VT. Like I said I think he did that to disperse the load but I could be wrong he knows WAY more than I do.

I'm using this on a ZX14 with 490watts. Would only be using my heated gear on the lowest setting and everything else would be off.

How did a ZX owner find their way to a FJR forum?

Judging from the number of posts you are a Former FJRider.

The +12VDC wire goes from the J1 terminal on the FZ-1 to a normally open pin on the relay(1) AND to one row of plugs for the unswitched fuses. When the key is turned on, the +VT switched power lead ONLY turns on the relay, the relay contacts close connecting the +12VDC voltage to the row of plugs for the switched fuses. The power for all the fuses comes from the +12VDC wire so the loads are all supplied by this one wire, 'dispersing the load' doesn't happen.

Auron asked if he can run all the listed items, I did say that if everything was run at 100% which is worst case. If he has to run everything at that power level it would be better to just take the car

The part about the volt meter is still true and strongly recommended.

(1) The relay has 2 parts, a coil to turn it on and off via the +VT wire and a mechanical type switch which gets closed making the electrical connection (just like a toggle switch) when power is applied to the +VT wire. The relay switch has one end connected to the +12VDC and the other terminal goes to the row of plugs for the switched power fuses. When the motorcycle is off the switch is open causing no power to the switched fuses.

 

[Auron]

I had an AE and loved it but moved on to a 14.

So I have an OEM on board voltmeter. Aside from the obvious, how should I read it? At what voltage would the alternator be considere taxed?

This is from their website if anyone wants to make sense of how much I can run. If each gerbings circuit is 6.4 amps, how is that overloading it?

"The FZ-1 has two separate current paths. One is for constant power and the other goes through the relay for switched power. Each circuit can handle up to 10A (120W). The total amperage used via the relay (switched power) should not exceed 30A (360W). The total amperage on the constant side should not exceed 30A (360W). The total amperage for the entire FZ-1 should not exceed 30A (360W)."

 

[ionbeam]

...So I have an OEM on board voltmeter. Aside from the obvious, how should I read it? At what voltage would the alternator be considere taxed?

The tipping point is 13.2 volts. Below that the battery isn't really getting charged, by 12.8 volts the battery is starting to contribute power (draining) and the stator is over heating.

 

[Auron]

And one more question, what size fuze should I use for the jacket and pants? Keep in mind the glove liners draw from the jacket.

 

[ionbeam]

IMO, 15A fuse for the jacket and 10A for the pants.

You probably could use 10A for the jacket without a problem but running as much as 8 amps through a 10A fuse is cutting it a bit too close. Most fuses are set for 2X the rated current of the item being powered to accommodate any power surges, such as often happens on turn-on.