Gen 1 (05) ECU Pinout Help Needed for Rostra Cruise

[Twigg]

I've searched and searched so if I missed something, a link would be great.

I need the ECU pin numbers for the Tach Signal and the ABS signal. Colors would be good so I can check mine is the same.

Any other advice would be great too. I have the Rostra Cruise almost installed. I want to use the ABS signal instead of the VSS as I believe the Rostra can handle it without a signal divider, but if you know different, tell me

VSS pin and color might help too.

Thank you, awesome ones.

ps ... I ought to rant here about the screw head bolts, made of cheese but fastened stupid tight, that hold the fuel rail on .... Grrrr! They will be replaced with socket head bolts as soon as I can get to Lowes in the morning

 

[PJ4863]

https://www.forum.fjr13.org/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5525

I believe this is the page. I'm going to be installing mine soon on my 04

 

[Twigg]

https://www.forum.fjr13.org/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5525
I believe this is the page. I'm going to be installing mine soon on my 04

Yeah ... I have that page, it's for a Gen 2, it's different.

Thanks.

 

[PJ4863]

Gonna have to save this thread then too.

 

[Twigg]

Gonna have to save this thread then too.

I may end up pouring over the wiring diagram in a futile attempt to work it out myself, because the shop manual thoughtfully omits the info.

Sure be nice if someone already knows the answer though

 

[HotRodZilla]

TheZsdad or someone has one installed and siad it took a couple days to figure out the pins. Someone has done this before.

 

[Twigg]

TheZsdad or someone has one installed and siad it took a couple days to figure out the pins. Someone has done this before.

Well fortunately there is no hurry. I can simply leave the wires loose by the ECU until I get the correct info.

 

[ionbeam]

On the Gen I the speed signal is the VSS sensor output which is derived from the final gear teeth. There is a better chance to use something like the crank position sensor. The fewer pulses, the less accurate the speed control. For a 'tach' signal you could use either the orange or gray/red coil wires. The risk of the coil wires is that the signal may not be very clean.

The VSS signal is the white/gold wire -- left end, top row, 5th wire in. The crank positions sensor wire is the solid gray wire -- bottom row, 8th wire in starting counting from the right side. The tach wires are on the top row -- right end, 1st and 2nd wires.

 

[Twigg]

On the Gen I the speed signal is the VSS sensor output which is derived from the final gear teeth. There is a better chance to use something like the crank position sensor. The fewer pulses, the less accurate the speed control. For a 'tach' signal you could use either the orange or gray/red coil wires. The risk of the coil wires is that the signal may not be very clean.
The VSS signal is the white/gold wire -- left end, top row, 5th wire in. The crank positions sensor wire is the solid gray wire -- bottom row, 8th wire in starting counting from the right side. The tach wires are on the top row -- right end, 1st and 2nd wires.

Awesome, ionbeam ... thank you.

Do you know which wire is the ABS Signal? That one has been successfully used in place of the VSS as the pulse count is about half.

 

[ionbeam]

Unlike the Gen II, the Gen 1 ABS unit doesn't share the ABS signal with the ECU. This means the only ABS signal available is directly off the wheel sensors. If it were me, I wouldn't mess with the wheel sensor wires. My AVCC cruise runs off a tach wire, but the AVCC servo expects this and has a dip switch to choose between breaker point and electronic ignition signals (which the FJR uses). Guess the cylinder identification signal could be used too.

 

[Twigg]

I may have to use the VSS signal then, with a divider. The Rostra uses the tach signal to disengage the unit if the engine speed rises without a corresponding rise in speed. So it constantly compares the tach signal with the signal from the speed sensor.

The VSS runs around 80k pulses per mile, and the ABS signal about half that. Both are square waves, The Rostra can handle the ABS signal, but the VSS is too much without a pulse divider.

 

[Twigg]

For anyone following along ...

Rostra part # 250-4379 divides the pulse by 4 bringing the VSS down to a more manageable 20000 pulses per mile.

Shop around, that part can be expensive. I'm sure there are other frequency dividers around, I just took the easy route.

 

[Twigg]

Rostra is now fitted and working ... a few notes for anyone following (or searching) for info:

I didn't take pictures because fitting these things has been well covered elsewhere. Mechanically the fitting is the same for the Gen 2, the differences are all electrical.

Speed input has to be taken from the VSS signal mentioned above. This is made very straightforward with a Posi-Tap. Indeed, Posi-Tap and Posi-Lock connectors are excellent, get a decent supply The complication with the VSS is that the signal is too much, at 80000 ppm, for the Vostra to handle. A frequency divider helps here and Rostra sells one. Get the "Divide by 4". It's $40 if you shop around, $70 if you don't. It's tiny and will fit right there in the tool tray.

Set the dip switch at the nearest value above 20000.

The Rostra comes with enough wiring to overhaul an aircraft carrier. Also, it demands about three grounds and at least two switched power sources. Join them all together and wire them to your Fuzeblock ... you have a Fuzeblock, right?

Brake positive .... There is one really handy, within about an inch of the servo. It's a brown wire right there by the flasher unit. You have to disconnect the rear brake switch to pull the harness through far enough to get the Posi-Tap on, but it takes just minutes.

If you have the lighted switch with the CC ON LED, then six wires go forwards. Wrapping and protecting them is the easy bit. I made a bracket to mount the controller, there are commercial brackets available, but I'm a fully paid-up member of the CBMMA*

If you have LED brakelights (I do because I'm not THAT cheap), then you will need a five terminal relay to allow the purple wire to sense ground through the braking system. If you have regular bulbs you do not need this. It's more wiring, but not hard and there is plenty of room back there to hide yet another relay.

Finally, I reached point nine of the self-diagnostics. Point nine simply says "Your Global Cruise 2 has successfully passed all the diagnostic checks"

Time for a road test but before you do you need to set the dip-switches.

The following settings work:

Gain .... Extra Low

Pulse ... Square

Setup Timer .... 8 Cylinder, Low

Transmission ... Automatic

Now for the road test ....

A quick ten miles let me test all the functions. Got the bike onto the highway at 60 mph before daring to hit "Set" .... Woah .... That was a bit fierce. Also, it's "hunting" a bit. Rapid throttle responses as it tries to maintain speed. This is worse at 50 mph and not so bad at 70 mph.

Pull over, flick the dip-switch from Low to Extra Low and bingo.

Smooth and immediate control. Ran it up to 90mph just to see. Set and held perfectly .... Take that you 2013 owners

Front brake and rear brake disengage but the Tach signal doesn't. I'll check that later because it should although with the brake and the Off button, I'm relaxed about it.

Got back to neighborhood and wondered about low speed control. At 25mph it engages smoothly and controls the speed perfectly ... Job Done!

*CBMMA ... Cheap B@stards Mortorcycle Mechanics Association.

A picture, because posts are worthless without pictures

 

[neilj14]

This sounds like what I need for my 04 Gen 1 ABS bike. What kit did you order? From where? I'm a Canadian customer with a US mailing address if I need it. Thanks for all the information.

Neil

 

[wfooshee]

I missed all this when it was happening, but the Audiovox can be set to use VSS and tach and compare them, as Twigg states his Rostra works. It does not require a VSS signal though, and can be set for tach only.

With the Rostra being based on the Audiovox, but actuated electronically instead of by vacuum, I'm surprised that mode isn't available. The Audiovox still disengages if you pull in the clutch and it sees the revs go up sharply. The revs only go up a few hundred RPM and the unit cuts itself out without any drama, so using the tach only is not going to threaten the engine with banging the rev limiter. The throttle closes safely with brake or clutch, as it should.

I'm not familiar with the Rostra's specifics, though, so I couldn't tell you if it can actually use tach only.

 

[NTXFJR]

Sorry to rehash an old thread. Twigg, would you mind sharing your results and dip switch settings for your install? I would've pm'd you but didn't see the option to do that.

Thanks!