Gen 1 not charging?

[HyperPete]

I should have known when I saw the battery tender connector on the bike that there might be charging system problems. I'm putting it on the battery tender to charge it overnight.

Battery held a charge since Saturday when I picked up the bike. I rode it about 200 miles, starting it about a dozen times in total. Today, after work, it cranked slowly and reset the clock and trip odometers. My guess is that it is not charging, but I will find out after it is charged. I'll run my meter across the battery and run the bike, looking for 14 volts. I know the drill; had to replace the stator and RR on my VMax last summer.

Are these bikes known for bad RRs or stators? I know how to troubleshoot the charging system, looking for AC voltage out of each leg of the stator, and DC voltage out of the RR. How many volts AC should the stator be producing? Are there any guides with pretty pictures for me to view?

And now for the super newbie question: I see that the battery is under panel B. What tools will I need to remove panels A & B?

Thanks in advance!

Pete

 

[Ignacio]

And now for the super newbie question: I see that the battery is under panel B. What tools will I need to remove panels A & B?

In the External Links section. FJRTech.net & the Maintenance section describes removing Gen 1 tupperware. D panel as in the article.

I'd check to make sure the battery terminals are secure first and foremost.

 

[HyperPete]

Thank you. I'll go check the link, and I'll check battery connections as well.

 

[BkerChuck]

It would be interesting to find out first how old the battery is. I just replace the battery in my '07 last year and I'm pretty sure it was the original. A battery tender lead isn't a sign of a bad electrical system. I have tender leads on all of our bikes since they don't all get ridden. I also use the tender lead as a power source to electrify my tank bag.

 

[dcarver]

and don't forget to check the ground.

 

[HyperPete]

OK, I should have checked before posting. Because of the VMax problems last summer, I automatically assumed it was not charging. But I'm wrong, I'm getting 14.2 across the battery while running. So, it probably IS a cheesy battery.

 

[boyitgobob]

I'd guess your battery is on its way out. I experienced the same symptoms the summer before last, replacing the battery cured the issue. The slow crank/gauge reset kept happening more frequently even with a tender. Searched this group and there were a couple threads, most suggesting imminent battery failure. HTH.

Sorry - 1/2 hr delayed post due to new pooch issues. Glad you found the problem.

 

[HyperPete]

Well, I learned how to remove the panels tonight, so it was still a worthwhile exercise.

 

[odot]

...........and remember to check the tyre pressure......that can make some stuff wonky.

 

[Fred W]

First off, welcome to the asylum, HyperPete - Now let's see if I can help you become a little less hyper.

As Chuck said, many of us have tender leads on our bikes, especially those of us who normally have a winter layup period. It's just good practice to put a tender on any time you won't ride the bike more than a month or so, especially if it is in unheated storage where it may freeze.

I also use my battery tender lead to power my electronics in my tank bag any time I'm on the bike. It's very convenient to just plug the tank bag in and power my communications/intercom, Radar detector, GPS and charge any gadgets that need charging all from one power cord.

And the third important use of that cord is to power a 12V air compressor, which is part of the flat repair kit (sticky strings plugs) that I carry on every ride. The pump and kit have saved the day in more than one occasion, well worth having along.

As for your symptoms of the trip odometer & clock reset, that is a very handy, though probably unintentional, feature of the FJR. When your battery starts to lose capacity, often times the first symptom will be the one you have experienced. The small battery's capacity is very close to what is required to turn the big engine over to minimize the battery dimensions, to fit where it does, and since it is located up high in the frame, to minimize weight. For those reasons, any battery that is not in tip top condition will present these symptoms.

When you do go battery shopping, I'd recommend staying away from the cheaper (usually Chinese) replacements. People tend to have better luck with the OEM GS Yuasa (Japan) if you can find one, Yuasa (US) , or WestCo replacements.

Best of luck with your new (to you) FJR.

PS - I forgot to mention:

Although it is not unknown, these bikes are not prone to having charging system problems like many other bikes do. The charging systems are fairly reliable unless you over-tax it with heavy load of powered accessories. First Gens like yours (1st Gen = 2003 - 2005) have less excess alternator power than the later model years. So you'll want to be judicious with how much/ how many high current devices you hook up. High current devices would be heated gear and incandescent lighting. Most gadgets use very little power.

Because the 1st Gens have less overhead wattage, many owners will install a panel voltmeter to monitor the battery charge voltage real time. That way you can watch your charging voltage while you add or subtract accessories to be sure you are not overloading the charging system. The Datel brand panel meter is a very popular model. If you google that on this site you should turn up all sorts of information on it.

 

[ionbeam]

What Fred said. I’ll add that a few Gen I owners have installed an aftermarket stator with a higher wattage output and these stators live big but die fast. I only mention this in case you don't know the history of your FJR. A cooked stator will cause the battery charging voltage to be 12.8 or less. A normal, happy charging system will provide 14 volts or more at the battery terminals.

When shopping for a battery I would suggest you avoid a lithium/iron (LiFe) battery since you live in a state where it gets cold. The LiFe batteries are ok except when it gets <40°F.

A battery tender connector on a FJR is sure not an indication of a charging problem.

 

[TomInPA]

Just to add to the LiFePO4 issue. Most are rated as lead-equivalent for CCA and amp-hours. Unfortunately the Pb-Eq is about 3 times the actual CCA available in the battery. So a Shorai rated at 18 amp-hours (pb-eq) is really only about 6 amp-hrs. Due to its low resistance and rapid discharge rate, it will start the bike under ideal conditions, but forget it if it has been drained, or the weather is cold. You actually need to get a 24 or 36 amp-hr LiFePO4 battery (pb-eq) to approach the real 12 amp-hr output of a stock AGM battery. I really like the LiFePO4 battery concept, but the marketing of pb-eq has been a real turn-off. To get a 36 amp pb-eq (12-amp actual) battery, you're talking prohibitively expensive.

 

[rbentnail]

And now for the super newbie question: I see that the battery is under panel B. What tools will I need to remove panels A & B?

Your owners manual is a good source for routine how-to's like removing panels.

 

[thomasgif]

Based on my Gen1 experience I wouldn't call the battery dead just yet. Give it a good charging and just monitor the situation.

I just replaced the battery in my '05 this spring and I still have the occasional ODO reset when starting. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you ever want to meet up - we can't be that far apart in Amish country.

 

[HyperPete]

It is on a battery tender jr. as I type this. I believe that this will be a nightly practice until I replace it.

BTW, I am up in the northwest corner of the county, near Riverfront Park in East Donegal, if you are familiar with that area.