Gen 1 speed sensor (VSS)?

[droptail]

edit: VSS = vehicle speed sensor, not engine speed

Looking for any vehicle speed signal for my Gen I with ABS (other than the ABS wheel sensor leads themselves, don't want to cut into them).

Thanks

 

[Flybum]

Depends on what you need the VSS signal for, guessing for a cruise control. I believe on the GEN I it is pin 18 off of the main ECU that carries the VSS signal between it and the ABS ECU. Otherwise you can get a "speed" signal from either the rear or front ABS sensor, the crank shaft sensor, cylinder identification sensor. ignition coil,..etc. Not sure about the dash MFD. Do you have the service manual? I think I've got a wiring diagram for the GEN I in PDF if you want, just PM me.

 

[wfooshee]

If it's for an Audiovox cruise, the ECU's VSS signal is too fast, I've been told by about 8 times, so we use the tach wire on the coil.

The speed sensor signal will be at the ECU, not the meter assembly. The ECU sends an encoded data stream to the meter assembly, which then decodes and feeds the proper dials, so you won't find a "speed" wire going into the meter assembly.

Aftermarket gear indicators use that ECU pin to get the speed signal. They compare it with RPM, and after being programmed, they know what the RPM/speed ratios are and can tell you what gear you're in.

 

[Flybum]

If it's for an Audiovox cruise, the ECU's VSS signal is too fast, I've been told by about 8 times, so we use the tach wire on the coil.

Heard the same thing, got interested about the Rostra unit awhile back and found a guy in Kerrville, TX (not a forum member) that has done a bunch of the lectric CC's and he gets his 4X signal reducer from the Rostra distributor, says they are flawless all the way up to 130MPH. Ordering mine next week, seeing I can get everything i need for less than a discontinued Audiovox.

 

[droptail]

Yes, I looked at all the leads to the instruments today and there isn't one there. I was hoping I wouldn't have to run a wire back to the ECU, because all my hook-ups to my controller are up front, but, no biggie.

I am making my windscreen height adjustment speed sensitive. I want it fully raised at about 50mph, and fully lowered at about 25mph, and proportional to speed in between. I don't want to have to thumb the switch every time I come to a stop.

How does the electronic cruise control work in so far as what does it control, TB? It is a vast improvement over a manual throttle lock? I really haven't used mine yet.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Flybum]

The electric cruise works the same as the vacuum types, just no vacuum canister. Has a cable servo hooked up to the TB at the throttle cable, but uses the VSS to adjust throttle position. Your variable speed windshield project sounds interesting. How are you going to accomplish this? Can you make auto or manual selectable?

 

[wfooshee]

Cruise works just like on a car: holds speed, resumes after a stop, lets you relax your right hand, you get tap-up and tap-down speed adjust on the buttons, and it disengages with the brakes or clutch. Our installation procedure uses the tach lead for the speed monitor so you can't shift gears and get the same speed, but why would you want cruise anywhere but top gear anyway?

Because the bike doesn't hold as much vacuum as most cars, most folks add a vacuum canister using something like an automotive fuel filter (even though the unit has a small canister built in,) and some tap off more than one of the TPS vacuum ports, using check valves to keep them from "seeing" each other.

 

[droptail]

Your variable speed windshield project sounds interesting. How are you going to accomplish this? Can you make auto or manual selectable?

I will be adapting the JSC Engineering pick-up truck power tailgate DROPTAIL system with automatic spoiler mode for this project.

Yes, manual is retained (handle bar switch and a remote control) along with fully automatic.

Info on the system is here: https://www.droptail.com/index.htm

I haven't had much time to drive it much. What little time I've had since getting the bike I've used to work on it (brakes, clutch, rubber, fluids, some seals, etc.). I like a tight bike.

I have tinnitus and I need a quiet bike for cruising (although I want it to roar on the rare occasion, another concurrent project) so windshield height directly relates to noise for me. I find I am constantly thumbing the switch to get the airstream going over my head for changing speeds. I want the screen down when at slow speed or at a stop, so I don't have to look through it, (and to be honest I think it looks sportier when down).

Heading out to Yosemite later this month so I need to get all this stuff done. Its just like me to have the machine torn down the night before I leave for an event like racing, touring, a show, whatever. Always scares my riding buddies, "The Calabastards". I don't blame them.

 

[droptail]

Is there a GenI >2003 electrical schematic I can look at? I need the ABS option on the GenI.

Thanks

 

[wfooshee]

Came back here to post rather than continue in the "Where does this wire go?" thread, because my comment is about this project. RadioHowie reminded us over there why the question over there was being asked.

I have to say . . . . good luck to you and all, but I really don't understand the auto-windshield-position idea. I mean, up, down, up, down, up, down, up, down all day long, every time you hit traffic, a stop sign or traffic light, whatever. And if you're like me, you want it somewhere else when it's hot than you do when it's cold, and also different for rainy versus dry weather.

So to do this, you want to build a controller that reads road speed (available at the ECU, but a really high number of pulses per mile compared to many other vehicles (and by the way, the ABS pulse count is just as high, IIRC)) and windshield position (by some gizmo you have to design, create, and install) then sends motor commands to adjust the shield to fit some matrix you have to store in your controller, and by doing so, subject your windshield drive to about 650 times the duty it would get otherwise.

I would hope you have some "leave it alone unless it really has to be adjusted" logic in there, or that motor's gonna get a hit every time you hit a bump, or just cycle back and forth a turn or so, and the smoke will escape within a few hours, maybe minutes.

I'm no systems person, and I'm not normally so full of negativity (hell, I run a car tire!!!!) but I feel like there'd be an awful lot of trouble with this. I mean, I'm all for cool things that do useful stuff for me. I have a cruise control on the bike. I have a GPS on the bike. I have a Bluetooth headset in my helmet.

But the windshield drive is not a continuous duty system. I have an analogy, and while it's not a direct comparison equipment-wise, it's philosophically the same. Go out to your garage and mash the opener's button. When it's done, mash it again. Repeat ad infinitum. See if you get 15 minutes before smoke comes out of the opener.

Oh, Just remembered. If you blow your windshield drive fuse, the neutral light won't work. That's where its 12 volt supply comes from