Bought a used bike a while ago and enjoying my new farkles. I heard someone mentioning the upgrade from Gen 1 to Gen 2 stator. I'm trying to see how this is done and who can do it? Getting an idea on a price because looking to step up to Clearwater light Group buy and add heated gear. Anyone have info or can point me the right direction. I been browsing the site for about 3 hours now.
Gen 1 stator to Gen 2 stator?
- Thread starter dayven99
- Start date
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ionbeam
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You can install a Gen II charging system in a Gen I. You will need Gen II parts: Stator cover; stator; rotor; voltage rectifier/regulator (R/R); automotive oil tolerant sealant for the rubber stator wire grommet; ideally, you should have on hand a new cover gasket. It is possible to get the Gen I R/R connector being removed to snake through the frame without cutting the wires (I've done it) but good luck with that, there is a trick that helps.
The rotor is a MAJOR PITA to pull, you will need to purchase or rent a beefy puller, preferably with grade 8 hardware. Apply pulling tension, then lightly tap the rotor all the way around with a plastic or rubber hammer. Tighten a bit more and tap. When the rotor lets go it typically sounds like a .308 being fired and you will think you broke something.
Be careful when handling the stator cover, the magnetic pull is very strong and it will pinch a careless mechanic real bad.
Go forth and melt wires! (JK)
The rotor is a MAJOR PITA to pull, you will need to purchase or rent a beefy puller, preferably with grade 8 hardware. Apply pulling tension, then lightly tap the rotor all the way around with a plastic or rubber hammer. Tighten a bit more and tap. When the rotor lets go it typically sounds like a .308 being fired and you will think you broke something.
Be careful when handling the stator cover, the magnetic pull is very strong and it will pinch a careless mechanic real bad.
Go forth and melt wires! (JK)
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lnewlf
Well-known member
Be easier to rig a car alternator with friction drive off the rear wheel...
No, it wouldn't.....but not by much.
Watt management is the FAR easier thing to do. Unless you're needing to run two sets of electric clothing, hand warmers, tons of auxiliary lights, and tons of farkles--it's easier to install a volt meter and monitor, I can spew all the photons I need out the front, a Warm N Safe, two GPS, radar detector, iPhone, and still have enough juice with the stock Gen 1 stator for the last 160,000 miles.
+1 -
I am also able to manage my 1st gen's limited wattage with a slightly different mix from Matt's. I find I can run two sets of 90W heated jacket liners and 30W gloves (his and hers), GPS, Radar Detector, Intercom, cell phone charging, etc. with no problems at all. Of course the heated gear is pulsed by a Heattroller, so it doesn't consume the full rated power.
I'm hoping I can add a new set of LED aux lights without going into power deficit. If it does, I'll know it because I have a Datel battery (charging) voltmeter and can see when that happens before the battery becomes drained. Then I can just turn my heated liner down or off (The missus liner must stay on. Priorities!) or make other adjustments until the charging voltage is adequate.
AS in most things, being aware and informed is of great value. I'd suggest installing a voltmeter (if you don't already have one) and try adjusting your loads on the fly.
I am also able to manage my 1st gen's limited wattage with a slightly different mix from Matt's. I find I can run two sets of 90W heated jacket liners and 30W gloves (his and hers), GPS, Radar Detector, Intercom, cell phone charging, etc. with no problems at all. Of course the heated gear is pulsed by a Heattroller, so it doesn't consume the full rated power.
I'm hoping I can add a new set of LED aux lights without going into power deficit. If it does, I'll know it because I have a Datel battery (charging) voltmeter and can see when that happens before the battery becomes drained. Then I can just turn my heated liner down or off (The missus liner must stay on. Priorities!) or make other adjustments until the charging voltage is adequate.
AS in most things, being aware and informed is of great value. I'd suggest installing a voltmeter (if you don't already have one) and try adjusting your loads on the fly.
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Looking to manage my voltage and I guess adding a voltmeter to the list. I know I took a trip in 20 degree weather for four hours and only made it thanks to a few heated items. (I have poor circulation in hands and feet.) So promising myself full heated gear, phone charger, and trying to get Clearwater lights. I'm looking for Erica or Krista in this group buy or settle for later in the year.
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Chuck35
Well-known member
FWIW - the (superior) first gens do not seem to suffer as much (or as often) from the voltage drop syndrome that has been noted by many 2nd genners.
For instance my Datel meter shows 14.2-14.3V at the battery with no added aux loads. And, when you do start adding power loads the vast majority of the battery voltage drop seen on the voltmeter is happening back in the stator and/or R/R itself.
Not having adequate voltage to keep the battery charged is the lesser risk. The bigger risk (If you fail to heed the warnings of the dropping charging voltage) is of burning up the stator.
For instance my Datel meter shows 14.2-14.3V at the battery with no added aux loads. And, when you do start adding power loads the vast majority of the battery voltage drop seen on the voltmeter is happening back in the stator and/or R/R itself.
Not having adequate voltage to keep the battery charged is the lesser risk. The bigger risk (If you fail to heed the warnings of the dropping charging voltage) is of burning up the stator.
Donal
Well-known member
Slightly OT but........... following the link in the post above to Jack's website there is a mention of the new Shindengen SH775 regulator. This is a series regulator which will not load the stator during low load conditions (unlike the older shunt style which either supply the load or apply a short to regulate the voltage).
Details of the SH775 can be found here, only problem is the current output is a bit low, the higher current models are still being developed.
Details of the SH775 can be found here, only problem is the current output is a bit low, the higher current models are still being developed.
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