Does anyone have an install sheet for the N-Line dash for a Gen II? I emailed the mfr. and he wants $5 for them.
Gen II N-Line dash install instructions
- Thread starter MrM0t0
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Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
ionbeam
2 FUN
Leather bound, with gilded lettering and six color process printing? Err, is this to cover shipping? In these gee-whiz days of computers it takes just one little attachment and a quick click to move documents at near light speed.
There is a downloadable instruction PDF, is there something tricky on the Gen II that this doesn't cover or provide sufficient hints?
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He says there are differences. My bike is in the shop now so I can't look at it to compare the differences between the Gen I instructions and the actual Gen II bike.
RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
PM me your email addy, I've got it. It's the first one he produced for Gen II, but I think the current version just has redesigned vertical legs. Also, at the front with the Duo-Loc dot, I recommend you also criss-cross a couple of tie straps on the front fairing opening, as the dot will likely come unglued in the real hot weather. You'll hear a rattle and wonder where it's coming from.
As for the stiffener, I would bolt it on, not rely on the adhesive.
As for the stiffener, I would bolt it on, not rely on the adhesive.
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PM sent. Appreciate the additional tips!
RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
mferriter
Occasionally trying to get work done
I have one of these things and it works well, as long as you attach everything really securely. Every once in a while it goes into some sort of harmonic oscillation and won't stop until I put my hand on it to dampen the vibration.
Th problem is that the highest mounting bolt is something like 5 or 6 inches below the shelf and the arms are a bit skinny. The velcro tab on teh front leg (that goes under the windscreen) helps a bit, but not much.
I'm working on a new mounting method to help correct this, posiblt just some high density foam or rubber bumpers above the upper mounting bolt. I also might just bite the bullet and change the velcro attachment on the front leg to a bolt with a well-nut. That would requie driling a hole, though, and I hate doing that. At least it would be fully covered by the windscreen.
Th problem is that the highest mounting bolt is something like 5 or 6 inches below the shelf and the arms are a bit skinny. The velcro tab on teh front leg (that goes under the windscreen) helps a bit, but not much.
I'm working on a new mounting method to help correct this, posiblt just some high density foam or rubber bumpers above the upper mounting bolt. I also might just bite the bullet and change the velcro attachment on the front leg to a bolt with a well-nut. That would requie driling a hole, though, and I hate doing that. At least it would be fully covered by the windscreen.
Auburn
Well-known member
I took the velcro dots off drilled a hole and installed the front just like the gen I does in ionbeam's shows in the photos. very secure. (NOTE: I do put a plastic washer between the metal and the bodywork.
I do a couple of other modifications. The l bracket that is suppose to be put on with double back tape. I drilled a couple of holes through it and the top shelf and added a bolt aat each end to hold the bracket to the shelf for additional support. The bolts are at each end of the bracket, this end is obscured by the cable for the zumo. Also you can I bolt evrything to it. No sticky tape or velcro to the shelf itself. You can also see the second mod to the shelf, a larger nut bolt system for the attachment point to the vertical supports.
top veiw of the other side with the top to vertical connection. You can also see the bolts that hold the cantec unit to the bottom side. I use the cantec because of it's relative small size. It lets me power several items on the shelf closer to the devices with smaller fuses for protection of the devices.
I have not had any issues with stability in the shelf at all.
Front view. I use the NLine angle brackets bolted to the shelf to hold the Zumo and the left side I put some velcor on the back of the iPod to hold it up. I also have a charge that plugs into the glove box for the iPod. The cente is the V1 box that NLine makes, it is also bolted to the shelf (the velcro strips inside are for the V1 so it does not rattle around) _ Note the top in not installed in this picture. I have a pice of velcro on top of The V1 case to put the FRS radio on top of it so the antenna has a clear area to work from. The last thing on my shelf, is the XM30 antenna, which is in fron of the Zumo, bolt to the shelf.
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mferriter
Occasionally trying to get work done
I took the velcro dots off drilled a hole and installed the front just like the gen I does in ionbeam's shows in the photos. very secure. (NOTE: I do put a plastic washer between the metal and the bodywork.
How dis you get to the backside of the whole you drillied to hold the nut in place? That's why I was thinking about using a wellnut - you can insert them from the front side.
How dis you get to the backside of the whole you drillied to hold the nut in place? That's why I was thinking about using a wellnut - you can insert them from the front side.
Auburn
Well-known member
I used the well nut that bike effects sells for the wind screen conversion from the plastic screws.
mferriter
Occasionally trying to get work done
Cool, I think I already have some of them laying around somewhere, from my old CBR. Is it pretty thin material that you are drillng through? Just trying to figure out the grip range for the well nut.
Were you have similar vibration issues, and did this solve it? I'm still thinking about putting some compressed foam between the upper part of the two side arm mounts and teh fairing to dampen the motion.
Thanks.
Auburn
Well-known member
I didn't have any vibration issues. I think I have a plastic washer between the shelf top and the vertical supports (can't remember for sure). Start small with the drill bit and work the size up in small increments. Tape over the paint so you don't chip it with blue painters tape.
Good2Go
Well-known member
The latest shipped versions of this GenII shelf (I bought mine in May) come with a rubberized push-in well nut that requires a hole drilled into the bike's nose. I tried it after not having any luck with the stick-on 3M dual lock dot. Well, the well nut didn't work well either; it would, well, eventually work loose after, well, a couple of hours.
To kill some time waiting for the ibr to start I copied karstenp's method of zip tieing the shelf nose to that "post" between the two front facing vents. It held tight and vibration free for 11,500 miles.
To kill some time waiting for the ibr to start I copied karstenp's method of zip tieing the shelf nose to that "post" between the two front facing vents. It held tight and vibration free for 11,500 miles.
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Thanks so much for all of the tips!
I got my shelf in March. I ended up using Super Glue Gel on both of the dots. 6K miles hasn't budged.
I do notice that the entire unit will move forward and back a bit with the verticale frame its attached to. This causes some vibration. I havn't put the extra brace on. Does this help stop the vibration? Any other ideas?
Pat L
TwoWheelExplorer
I'd like a bit more info on the well nut I need for a first gen N-line shelf's front bracket. Is this something I should be able to find at the local Ace hardware store?
I didn't see Anything matching at BikeEffects.com either.
Auburn
Well-known member
Conrocks
Active member
I used a 1/4 20 screw inverted with small fender washers on both sides of the plastic with a nut on the top side to hold it in place. No more problems with the velcro stuff. When I want to remove it, I just unscrew another nylock nut holding the nose down and remove the shelf. I also did the mod so the wind screen doesn't move when the engine is shut down the dash was all open.
cali_rider
Well-known member
I have one of these on my bike, came with it...but the cee baileys winshield hits the shelf so it may come off.... I cant say I am this products biggest fan... considered designing my own and sending it out to a sheetmetal comapny.
