Generation II and '13/'14 Gen III general questions

[deagle]

I am going thru a lot of the history, but can't find everything. Can someone help me with a few questions? I have a 2008 FJR. Am thinking about a 2013/2014 in the next year or two:

My main two complaints with my bike are my tired throttle hand and the seat. The tired hand (main cable disconnected...no change) is helped a lot by a Throttlemeister.

1. Is there any reason to add a Throttlemeister to the 2013/2014? Is cruise limited to 80 on both 2013 and 2014 and is there a way to override that?

2. The seat I've lived with for years, but this past weekend it finally drove me over the edge. Will a Russell on my 2008 fit on a 2013/2014 if I upgrade?

3. Heard the Russell seat makes it a longer reach to the bars. Is the reach the same to the bars from 2008 to 2014? Is there better adjustability?

(I am reaching as far as I'd like to at this point)

4. Is there anything else I need to consider or think about moving from a 2008 to gen III?

Thanks!

Been very happy with my 2008, but cruise sounds so nice....and I do need a seat upgrade. Hate to spend the money for one year if seat won't fit on newer models. I will admit, after this weekend riding with guys on full touring Harleys and their talk of riding all day with no butt pain.....I started pulling up some Goldwing classifieds when I got home. I love the power of the FJR though. Just need to make it a little more comfortable (a lot more comfortable in the seat area).

 

[CA G-Man]

1. No need for a Throttlemeister on a '14 (unless you plan on riding for long periods faster than whatever insane limit is on that year's CC (100 MPH if I remember correctly). The '13 is limited at 80(ish) MPH. Not a concern for many of us but seemingly a big deal for a lot of speed demons around here

2. Seats swap between Gen II and Gen III no problem.

3. If your Russell is built for you, it should result in the same reach as you currently have (in theory). That said, most seem to find the Russell a bit higher than stock. As far as I know the bars (and their adjustment) are the same on Gen II and Gen III. Lots of people seem to go for bar risers to add some height and bring the bars back a bit. I just got my Russell a couple of weeks ago - not even broken in yet but I'm already very happy with it.

4. No. Do it. The only real question is whether you spend the few $ more for a new 2014 (or pretty soon a 2015) with electronic suspension. All Gen III suspensions are beefier than Gen II (higher spring rate). I think the reviews of the ES models have been generally positive.

 

[MCRIDER007]

I am going thru a lot of the history, but can't find everything. Can someone help me with a few questions? I have a 2008 FJR. Am thinking about a 2013/2014 in the next year or two:
My main two complaints with my bike are my tired throttle hand and the seat. The tired hand (main cable disconnected...no change) is helped a lot by a Throttlemeister.

1. Is there any reason to add a Throttlemeister to the 2013/2014? Is cruise limited to 80 on both 2013 and 2014 and is there a way to override that?

2. The seat I've lived with for years, but this past weekend it finally drove me over the edge. Will a Russell on my 2008 fit on a 2013/2014 if I upgrade?

3. Heard the Russell seat makes it a longer reach to the bars. Is the reach the same to the bars from 2008 to 2014? Is there better adjustability?

(I am reaching as far as I'd like to at this point)

4. Is there anything else I need to consider or think about moving from a 2008 to gen III?

I currently have a 2008 and a 2013 so I think I can answer your questions.

1. Cruise is limited to 80 mph on 2013, I think the limit is 100 mph on 2014.

2. The seats are interchangeable between GEN2 and GEN3. I have a Laam seat on my '13 but I sent him my '08 seat to rebuild.

3. The reach to the bars is the same between GEN2 and GEN3.

4. The GEN3 has a slightly stronger engine, redesigned faring, updated dash display including a very large digital speedometer that is only 2 mph fast, traction control, upgraded suspension, and other upgrades that give the GEN3s a more refined and tighter feel. The upgrades as a whole seem like more than the sum of the parts. The only downside I have discovered is the plastic seems harder to remove....I say "seems" because I haven't done it yet and don't even know where to start. Battery access on the early '13s was difficult but corrected on the late '13s and '14s.

 

[deagle]

Excellent info. Thanks!

I'll add the Russell this Winter, and then wait for that gently used 2013 or 2014 to show up in the classifieds a couple of years down the road.

I am not sold on the ES, as my bike is still on the stock settings it came with. I have no complaints. Maybe I don't know what I'm missing. But more than likely it's for people with a greater understanding of suspension and perhaps much faster in the corners than I will ever be.

Edited to add: Accurate speedometer would be nice. As for the plastic....man I seem to struggle with panel removal.

 

[Eric L]

went from 2009 to 2014 - smoother, more refined. I have no further need for the cramp buster. The cruise works very well too.

I am not keen on the toggling between data screens, but I live with it.

 

[Allen_C]

I agree with what was said above - I went from an '08AE to a '14ES. To comment on your statement that your are not sure about the benefits of the ES, until you ride it you cannot comprehend the difference...if you ride a mixture of 1up vs 2up OR different types of roads (slab vs city vs curves), you will experience the difference. Additionally, the Gen 3's included heated grips and updated fairing nose vent to reduce buffeting. And to confirm, the cruise will set up to 100 mph.

 

[CA G-Man]

Edited to add: Accurate speedometer would be nice. As for the plastic....man I seem to struggle with panel removal.

FWIW, don't count on the speedo being accurate, and although I have nothing to compare it to, I've had most of the plastic off mine with no great difficulty.

 

[bergmen]

For U.S. bikes, the Gen III speedos are very accurate. When mine (2014 A) reads 60mph, actual is about 58-59mph.

I made my decision to buy the 2014 mainly because it came with factory cruise control (and it was Candy Red). On my previous bike (2003 Kawasaki ZG1000 Concours) I installed an Audiovox cruise control within a month or two of taking delivery in August of 2002. I vowed then and there that I would not own a sport touring motorcycle without one.

In addition to your list, one thing to keep in mind is the excellent drive-ability improvements facilitated by the YCC-T (throttle-by-wire). This magnificent feature improves all drive regimes from idle to redline, it is absolutely fantastic. I have had Gen II owners ride mine and they are amazed at how Yamaha has improved throttle response and smoothness in all phases. No abrupt off-idle jerkiness, smooth as butter. And also, the Drive Modes are excellent, I use mine constantly (owner for six months). "T" mode around town, "S" mode during freeway and mountain combat runs.

I began my search looking for an "ES" model last November in California but nobody had them and they couldn't say with any accuracy when they would (10 dealers queried). "A" models were on the floor and dealers were flexible on MSRP (not so on the "ES"). I went with the "A", not willing to wait or put up with a non-negotiable pricing strategy (a deal-breaker for me).

No regrets but I have not ridden an "ES" for comparison. Either way, you are going to be very happy with whatever Gen III you choose, believe me.

Dan

 

[MCRIDER007]

For U.S. bikes, the Gen III speedos are very accurate. When mine (2014 A) reads 60mph, actual is about 58-59mph.

Mine is the same way, seems to be accurate within 1.5-2mph everywhere up to 80. The cruise control will lock in at an indicated 82mph which is exactly 80mph on the GPS.

 

[CA G-Man]

For U.S. bikes, the Gen III speedos are very accurate. When mine (2014 A) reads 60mph, actual is about 58-59mph.

Mine is the same way, seems to be accurate within 1.5-2mph everywhere up to 80. The cruise control will lock in at an indicated 82mph which is exactly 80mph on the GPS.

Hmm... makes me wonder - are the Canadian bikes somehow built differently or is it just that they can't do the math to convert to km/h properly? I'm not the only Canadian owner who's seen speedo errors in the 10% range. Even with my new 190/55 tire mounted it's closer to GPS "actual" but still not as close as you guys are getting!

Oh well, I'm training myself to ignore that big, inaccurate, digital on-bike speedo and look instead at the GPS.

 

[MCRIDER007]

For U.S. bikes, the Gen III speedos are very accurate. When mine (2014 A) reads 60mph, actual is about 58-59mph.

Mine is the same way, seems to be accurate within 1.5-2mph everywhere up to 80. The cruise control will lock in at an indicated 82mph which is exactly 80mph on the GPS.

Hmm... makes me wonder - are the Canadian bikes somehow built differently or is it just that they can't do the math to convert to km/h properly? I'm not the only Canadian owner who's seen speedo errors in the 10% range. Even with my new 190/55 tire mounted it's closer to GPS "actual" but still not as close as you guys are getting!

Oh well, I'm training myself to ignore that big, inaccurate, digital on-bike speedo and look instead at the GPS.

I'm going the other direction....training myself to look at the big, easy to read, digital on-bike speedo (its pretty easy to subtract 2 from any other number) instead of looking down at the much smaller GPS number.

 

[bergmen]

Hmm... makes me wonder - are the Canadian bikes somehow built differently or is it just that they can't do the math to convert to km/h properly? I'm not the only Canadian owner who's seen speedo errors in the 10% range. Even with my new 190/55 tire mounted it's closer to GPS "actual" but still not as close as you guys are getting!

Oh well, I'm training myself to ignore that big, inaccurate, digital on-bike speedo and look instead at the GPS.

I have heard this from many sources, that the bikes that are intended for other than U.S. destinations are way off in speedo accuracy. I have not changed units on mine to check to see if it is a units conversion error.

Dan

 

[CA G-Man]

Hmm... makes me wonder - are the Canadian bikes somehow built differently or is it just that they can't do the math to convert to km/h properly? I'm not the only Canadian owner who's seen speedo errors in the 10% range. Even with my new 190/55 tire mounted it's closer to GPS "actual" but still not as close as you guys are getting!

Oh well, I'm training myself to ignore that big, inaccurate, digital on-bike speedo and look instead at the GPS.

I have heard this from many sources, that the bikes that are intended for other than U.S. destinations are way off in speedo accuracy. I have not changed units on mine to check to see if it is a units conversion error.

Dan

Well I'll be riding in the USA next week, so I guess I have a reason to do the test!

 

[art miller]

Go for broke and get the 14ES. The additional $1K price over the A model will be much appreciated as you grow into the bike. If you are thinking of waiting for a year to buy, then get an AirHawk inflatable seat pad. Get the pillon one not the rider one. This will save your ***. I have ridden 600 mile days on the AirHawk and no saddle burn or *** fatigue. Reach to the bars is mostly a matter of your posture. You should not be leaning forward into the bars. Sit up slightly slump your shoulders and let your arms hang down. Put enough pressure on the foot pegs to support your upper body Your grip on the bars should be light as if you were handling a raw egg. This will take persistent practice but it will make you a much more comfortable rider and you will have much better control of the bike.