GenIII Spark Plugs

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art miller

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What is the consensus on best spark plugs for the GenIII engine? I was using NGK Iridium plugs in my GenII bikes and get very good life and performance from them. Prior to having the 16K service done on the GenIII I tried to find the Iridium plugs but could not find them. Are they available and are they worth the extra cost?

 
I have used Iridium plugs on previous bikes but did not notice a difference. I do not think Iridium's are available for the Gen III.

Pulled the original plugs at 25K and replaced with CPR8EA-9 (NGK 2306). The original plugs still looked good.

I just did a valve adjustment at 52K and was planning to replace the plugs but the current ones look great so I left them in there. I'll check again in another 10K or so.

 
What is the consensus on best spark plugs for the GenIII engine? I was using NGK Iridium plugs in my GenII bikes and get very good life and performance from them. Prior to having the 16K service done on the GenIII I tried to find the Iridium plugs but could not find them. 1) Are they available and 2) are they worth the extra cost?
1) No, there is no direct replacement available for new 3rd Gen ignition (coil over plug). Some owners have insisted on jamming the CR8EIX plugs into their 3rd Gens. Apparently they feel they know more about ignition systems and spark plugs than the design engineers at Yamaha.

2) They were never worth double the cost on any prior year FJR, so I guess the answer is still no.

 
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Plugs are quite good these days, as are fuels and fueling maps. I don't know what Yamaha's recommended replacement interval is, but my guess is that plugs are probably cheap if considered as a "per mile" expense, just as oil and tires are also cheap when considered by this metric.

However, these expensive spark plugs can need more frequent replacement if you've modified the ECU and are "tuning."

We ran our student formula car with a YZF R-6 engine, and due to induction modifications that were required by the competition, we had to completely remove the stock fuel and timing components. We tuned on an eddy current chassis dyno, and it was possible for plugs to be harmed during these experiments.

On the shoestring student project budget, the students discovered that if they pulled the expensive plugs, they could clean them off with a propane torch and reuse them.

I would not do this myself, but this was one of the shade tree mechanic ideas that did not seem to cause any specific harm, and it did save some money on an otherwise limited budget.

Another student idea that I saw more than once on some other teams' cars over the years was to remove the stock oil pan and replace it with a more shallow pan, so that the engine could be mounted lower and maintain acceptable ground clearance. The idea was that this might give improved performance on the skid pad or in general cornering.

The stock pan had a very elaborate system of dams, wells, and weirs. The student designed and built replacement pans were nearly always feature free (like a cake pan). These engines were frequently doomed to seizure under heavy use ... so the shade tree logic, i.e. the logic that you know about the engine than the designers, can lead to "learning opportunities."

Thinking about this, another one that I saw a few times was the carbon fiber air box. Some of you know that carbon fiber plates are pretty good under tensile loading, but they're not well suited to compressive loading. An air box in normal use sees interior pressures that are lower than atmospheric, and so the plates must stand up to compression stresses. I'll never forget the time I saw the happiest and saddest moments in one fellow's engineering life. It looked so pretty sitting there before the engine was started. It failed on the first punch of the throttle. Sigh....

It could have been designed to hold up to this type of loading, but in order to keep it as light as possible, they'd made the interior feature free (like the oil pan idea). Sometimes the simplest approach is not the best.

 
On my Gen I, per the owner's manual, I pulled my factory plugs at 8,000 miles. They were pristine in color and shape. No increase in the gap. No change in engine performance or fuel mileage. But I changed them anyway with the stock plug.

At the 26K valve check, I pulled the plugs. Same exact thing, only this time they went 18K. Again, replaced with the stock plug.

Next, I went to the 52K valve check. One plug had the gap opened maybe 0.005". But then again, it could have been my error upon installation. Otherwise, same senerio, only this time they went 26-ish K miles.

For the Gen III, I think I'm going to just leave it until the first valve check. But regardless, I'm going back with the stock plug.

 
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