Givi versus SW Motech rack Gen II

[semongtaulie]

Well I need some advice. I currently have a SW Motech rack and Givi V46 on my 06. No problems at all, even at triple digit speeds. I went and bought a Givi E55 because my wife said bigger is better ( I'm hoping she was talking about luggage ).

Now I'm unsure if I should stay with the SW Motech rack or go with the Givi SR357 mount. I much prefer the looks of the SW especially when you don't have the topcase on plus the black rails on the Givi don't look as good as the stock grab rails. I do care about the looks but not if it's going to cause my frame to break or the case to come flying off. I only ride solo so I'm not worried about additional weight on the rear.

Anyone have any advice....stay with the SW or change to Givi?

Thanks for any insight.

 

[wfooshee]

The Givi rack is stronger. Period.

You know the stock rack is plastic, right? Grab rails, platform, all of it. Plastic.

I regularly carry 25-30 pounds in my E52, no problems over 4 years.

I never ride without the box, so I don't care what the empty rack looks like.

 

[Pale Rider 07]

I just installed the E55 with the Givi rack. Could not be happier. The Givi rack really makes the entire assembly feel sturdy. The grab rails on the Givi rack give me a better place to tie straps to when I'm traveling and carrying a large bag on the pillion seat. My Admore lite kit comes in today...can't wait to get that installed this weekend.

 

[kebo123]

I can confirm that Givi rack is strong enough. Only disadvantage is that it looks not so good as original rack. But function is priority...

 

[Bill]

My SW-Motech has worked perfectly for over 50,000 miles and many of them with an overloaded Giving Maxi on top of it.

My SW-Motech has worked perfectly for over 50,000 miles and many of them with an overloaded Givi Maxi on top of it.

My SW-Motech has worked perfectly for over 50,000 miles and many of them with an overloaded Givi E50 on top of it.

 

[Bill]

My SW-Motech has worked perfectly for over 50,000 miles and many of them with an overloaded Giving Maxi on top of it.

My SW-Motech has worked perfectly for over 50,000 miles and many of them with an overloaded Givi Maxi on top of it.

My SW-Motech has worked perfectly for over 50,000 miles and many of them with an overloaded Givi E50 on top of it.

The previous posting is what happens when something is sent on my Droid X during a riding break. LOL

Since everyone will have a preference for whatever it is that they own. Most Givi owners won't have owned a SW-Motech and most SW-Motech owners won't have owned a Givi rack. Therefore, a better question would be to ask the forum members if anyone has had a SW-Motech break from the weight of a fully-loaded Givi Maxia E50, E52, or E55.

 

[wfooshee]

It wouldn't be the SW-Motech that breaks, it's just an adapter plate, right? It would be the subframe or rack under the plate that breaks, and that has happened.

 

[semongtaulie]

I very much appreciate everyone's replies. I guess Bill is right that a better question would be if someone with a SW rack has ever had a cracked frame. I recall that there were some cracked frames though I don't know if it was because the loading of the top case was beyond rated capacity or pillion plus top case was too much.

I'm leaning towards the Givi just because the two extra attachment points under the seat would seem to spread the load better. Also, Niehart let me know that Garauld could paint it to match the 06 blue.

Thanks to everyone for their input!!

 

[wfooshee]

The two attachment points under the seat are not "extra." They use the same locations as the factory rack. The difference is simply that the Givi rack is steel.

The subframe cracking is not from pillion weight at all, it's strictly from top case, as ALL the weight of a top case is BEHIND the rear bulkhead of the subframe. That bodywork under the top case is empty plastic, just there to hold the taillights. The grab rails of the rack, whether the factory plastic rack or the steel Givi rack, are loaded in tension to protect the bulkhead from rotating out under the weight.

The earliest cracked subframe reports I can remember were from folks who removed the grab rails altogether to make room for things like auxiliary fuel tanks or whatever.

This pic of a bare Gen-II chassis shows what I'm talking about. The black lines are my illustration of the top case and the grab rails. You can plainly see the stress the rear bulkhead would be under without the rails. And you can well imagine how much better steel rails would be than plastic rails. There is a post around somewhere from someone who broke the stock grab rails, and then lost the rear bulkhead.

Keep the stock rack and the SW-Motech if you prefer the appearance, but limit your load weight accordingly. Yamaha states a capacity with their case and rack as only 7 pounds! If you know you want to load it up, get the Givi rack and the steel tubes. Simple as that.

 

[LAF]

Was not even a question on my 0 mile 10 farkel adventure.

I knew from reading there were reports of sub frame breaks. And while not all, most pointed to the inadequacy of the plastic/fiberglass? grab rails to support rear weight on the tail. I also remember a thread where the subframe was beefed up by some welding stays or something, so long ago on that reading.

I ordered the rack with my Givi.

I guess the best way for sure is see it with the seat off and the rack in place compared to the factory grab rail. I just don't see anyone not picking the Givi over the factory, looks aside.

I was going to have mine painted to match but the black is not that bad. I am going to find some tennis handle wrap in Silver and put it on for a passenger to have a nicer grab rail, but I have even put that off for ever.

The drawing should tell you the whole story, and which do you think will better take the stress?

I see the OP has made the right choice and sent it to our forum's master painter. He made the right choice, so should anyone else that finds this thread in a search.

 

[yamafitter]

I had the Givi rack but could not use my Corbin Smuggler with it. I put the OEM rack back on and use the E228 adaptor plate. I also have the Admore light kit in my E55 topbox and it's alll good now.

 

[semongtaulie]

Good info, yamafitter. I don't have the smuggler "yet" but boy do I want one. Just using the Monokey top plate puts you in the same circumstance I'm in with the SW plate. How much weight have you loaded into that E55 and how long have you had it?