glovebox disable

[Ijuggle]

Can anyone explain how to disable the electric's on the glovebox and make it open anytime with a push of the button, (engine running and engine off, neutral and in gear). 2004 model.

Thanks

 

[pawtracks]

If I recall correctly you can just disconnect the power to the solenoid.

Power cable connects to the bottom of part 71 of picture below.

In any condition that enables the glovebox to be locked the plunger (red arrow) is extended which pushes against piece 72 and extends the metal tab (top of piece 74) thereby locking the box. If the plunger/solenoid is not powered it is retracted and it should open all the time.

If my memory is not correct it is pretty obvious how it works if you take it apart and look at it for a few minutes.

 

[Patriot]

Can anyone explain how to disable the electric's on the glovebox and make it open anytime with a push of the button, (engine running and engine off, neutral and in gear). 2004 model.
Thanks

I just curl my fingertips around the lip of the cover and pull which snaps it open very easily

Just pushing it down snaps it closed...I never use the electrics or button, but have disconnected nothing

Mine also is the best Feejer like yours

let's ride safe and be careful out there,

Mike in Nawlins'

 

[Harvey]

If I recall correctly you can just disconnect the power to the solenoid.Power cable connects to the bottom of part 71 of picture below.

In any condition that enables the glovebox to be locked the plunger (red arrow) is extended which pushes against piece 72 and extends the metal tab (top of piece 74) thereby locking the box. If the plunger/solenoid is not powered it is retracted and it should open all the time.

If my memory is not correct it is pretty obvious how it works if you take it apart and look at it for a few minutes.

I haven't tried this, but it doesn't make sense to me.

Shouldn't it be the opposite; requiring power to open, not to keep it locked?

 

[Slosey]

If I recall correctly you can just disconnect the power to the solenoid.Power cable connects to the bottom of part 71 of picture below.

In any condition that enables the glovebox to be locked the plunger (red arrow) is extended which pushes against piece 72 and extends the metal tab (top of piece 74) thereby locking the box. If the plunger/solenoid is not powered it is retracted and it should open all the time.

If my memory is not correct it is pretty obvious how it works if you take it apart and look at it for a few minutes.

Thanks! I was having problems with my box and was thinking I had to order the complete assembly, $100. You explination helped me determine I only need to order 74 and 72, $10....broke.

 

[RsvlFeej]

Old threads say to remove the solenoid completely. Here's one:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...19&hl=glove

 

[RadioHowie]

Mine also is was the best Feejer like yours

Sorry Mike....couldn't resist. :assassin:

 

[Patriot]

Mine also is was the best Feejer like yours

Sorry Mike....couldn't resist. :assassin:

yoo dawg...temporary, only temporary...unconscious, not dead

Isabella WILL rise again

<I hope> <and soon>

 

[HaulinAshe]

Remove the solenoid completely to disable the lock. It must have 12v applied to unlock.

 

[Ijuggle]

Thanks for the replies. I'll nuke the lock this week.

 

[CAJW]

Mine also is was the best Feejer like yours

Sorry Mike....couldn't resist. :assassin:

I thought it, but didn't say it. Me thinks only R Howie could get away with that! I've worked in LA (no, not Los Angeles) and them Southern boys don't take kindly to smart asses like me, especially from the Left Coast.

 

[Panman]

If I recall correctly you can just disconnect the power to the solenoid.Power cable connects to the bottom of part 71 of picture below.

In any condition that enables the glovebox to be locked the plunger (red arrow) is extended which pushes against piece 72 and extends the metal tab (top of piece 74) thereby locking the box. If the plunger/solenoid is not powered it is retracted and it should open all the time.

If my memory is not correct it is pretty obvious how it works if you take it apart and look at it for a few minutes.

Thanks! I was having problems with my box and was thinking I had to order the complete assembly, $100. You explination helped me determine I only need to order 74 and 72, $10....broke.

You can also just take out 74, I didn't like not being able to get in with out using the key. I chose taking 74 out so I didn't have exposed connections.

 

[HaulinAshe]

BTW, if you decide to drop the lock solenoid, remember that it draws roughly 1.0 amps of current. So right there is a great source of 12V power for up-front farkles.

Just sayin...

 

[v65]

I just curl my fingertips around the lip of the cover and pull which snaps it open very easily

You big brute! :lol:

 

[Panman]

BTW, if you decide to drop the lock solenoid, remember that it draws roughly 1.0 amps of current. So right there is a great source of 12V power for up-front farkles.
Just sayin...

Dam now I gotta get in there and disconect it.

Why don't ya drop over and show me Jeff? :lol:

 

[HaulinAshe]

Why don't ya drop over and show me Jeff? :lol:

I have everything needed to finish your HA-Custom wiring harness, packed in the GF's van. See you at EOM.

 

[Panman]

Why don't ya drop over and show me Jeff? :lol:

I have everything needed to finish your HA-Custom wiring harness, packed in the GF's van. See you at EOM.

Dam, you know Pop's and myself would love to!

 

[Fred W]

FWIW, what Jeff said confused me, so I looked at the wiring diagrams of the Accessory box solenoid, and was reminded that the wiring is different for 1st gen and 2nd Gen bikes. On 1st gen bikes you need to have the bike's ignition switch on and shifter in neutral to activate the solenoid and unlock the glove box. 2nd gen bikes' gloveboxes unlock any time the key switch is on.

So the brown wire that goes to the solenoid on 2nd gens would indeed make a handy 1A farkle ready circuit. On 1st gens that brown wire only has power in neutral, so not so useful.