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mr.paul

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Yeah, I am a procrastinator. I keep meaning to do something about that...

This is an old problem but I feel compelled to relate it. Yesterday while leaving work, I went to stow my heavy jacket liner in a saddlebag. It was 30 degrees when I went to work. When I unlocked the saddlebag the lock cylinder came out in my hand with the key in it. My eyes went big as I looked and saw the locking tab, with the screws still in it, laying on top of the saddlebag. I have read many times about loctite application on these screws and always meant to get it done, but they have been fine for 5 years and just under 50,000 miles.

My ride to work is about 30 miles and 40 minutes. I was stowing an expensive heated liner in an expensive saddlebag. Not to mention that replacing the lock parts would be a needless hassle. That I got off so easily on this old issue feels like a gift.

If you haven't gotten aroound to this, here is my reminder. Now, what was that other thing I was supposed to do?

mr.paul from Minnesota

 
Good reminder. I had done this on my previous FJR, but I know I haven't done it on the replacement FJR.

 
Be very careful with the Loctite that none of it goes into the lock mechanism. Been there done that and there is no undoing it.

 
In my experience (don't ask how I know!), Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) will disolve Blue Loctite if you let it soak overnight. Whatever you do, don't get any MEK on any plastic parts you are fond of :unsure: :blink: :huh: :angry: !!

Don

 
Yep. I had to replace a front fender on my cbr929 a few years ago because I got Loctite on the plastic. Cracks developed soon after.

 
Yeah, I am a procrastinator. I keep meaning to do something about that...

This is an old problem but I feel compelled to relate it. Yesterday while leaving work, I went to stow my heavy jacket liner in a saddlebag. It was 30 degrees when I went to work. When I unlocked the saddlebag the lock cylinder came out in my hand with the key in it. My eyes went big as I looked and saw the locking tab, with the screws still in it, laying on top of the saddlebag. I have read many times about loctite application on these screws and always meant to get it done, but they have been fine for 5 years and just under 50,000 miles.

My ride to work is about 30 miles and 40 minutes. I was stowing an expensive heated liner in an expensive saddlebag. Not to mention that replacing the lock parts would be a needless hassle. That I got off so easily on this old issue feels like a gift.

If you haven't gotten aroound to this, here is my reminder. Now, what was that other thing I was supposed to do?

mr.paul from Minnesota
Well ... I saw a discussion about the panier locks early this summer. I purchased my '09 the 15th April. I wanted to locktite the locks at that time, but I did not have the proper (safety) torx wrenches. So every time I washed the bike, I'd check the locks and they seemed fine. Well, with the cooler weather, I haven't washed the bike in the last month. Guess what happened on my return from work Friday. When I arrived home, the lock was gone. Hmm!

So now I need to find a replacement, hopefully I can get the replacement keyed to my ignition key. First though .... I need to look through my stuff and see if by chance a third lock was supplied with then bike when I got it. I was so giddy when getting it that I did not take a good inventory of what I received with it.

Moral of this story friends: If you haven't do so, Locktite those screws holding the panier locks in place.

Rheal

 
Third lock should be under your rear seat. Its supplied in case you get a trunk. If its not there, buy a lock and take it to a locksmith. It clan be rekeyed. Kind of expensive, but too late now.

Then go to NAPA and buy a small set of security torx heads for like $5. Remove the screws from the intact bag, go to Home Depot and buy phillips replacements, Loc-Tight them all and then go ride till you feel better...

 
What it was originally keyed to is not relevant. Just take the new lock, insert your bikes key, and file the protruding tumblers (they appear as tabs sticking out one side of the cylinder or the other). This will, in effect, set the tumblers to both the old key and the new key. This only works with two keys. If you were to try it with more you run into the problem of the tumblers being so short they will not "lock" the cylinder into place when the key is removed.

 
Seems like a repeat but I did this to my 10 with 0 miles.

Reading works here, and if you see warnings from more then a few people do it and save yourself the hassles.

So much information here from others experiences, one should do these things and not procrastinate.

 
A couple of things. Do use blue, not red loctite. Red only comes loose with heat, and you may actually want to remove those some day.

Security Torx bits are not difficult to find. Most auto parts stores or Sears/Ace/Walmart/Lowes/Home Depot all carry them. Make a trip into town, eh? :blink:

And if you went to the trouble to get security torx bits, there really isn't any point in replacing the screws with something else. BUT, if you must, please do yourself a favor and use button head allen screws, not phillips. You'll just strip the phillips ones out more easily down the road. Allen and Torx fasteners will take more torque than phillips in most cases and are less prone to slipping.

Oh yeah, the size is a T-10 for those little security torx screws on the locks.

p.s. While anything can come loose over time... if you do a good job, it will last a long time. I loctited my screws when I got home in July of '04 with 200 miles on the bike. The bags have been on it's entire life, virtually every mile. At 162k, I've never had a lock or screw come loose. ;)

 
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A couple of things. Do use blue, not red loctite. Red only comes loose with heat, and you may actually want to remove those some day.

Security Torx bits are not difficult to find. Most auto parts stores or Sears/Ace/Walmart/Lowes/Home Depot all carry them. Make a trip into town, eh? :blink:

And if you went to the trouble to get security torx bits, there really isn't any point in replacing the screws with something else. BUT, if you must, please do yourself a favor and use button head allen screws, not phillips. You'll just strip the phillips ones out more easily down the road. Allen and Torx fasteners will take more torque than phillips in most cases and are less prone to slipping.

Oh yeah, the size is a T-10 for those little security torx screws on the locks.

p.s. While anything can come loose over time... if you do a good job, it will last a long time. I loctited my screws when I got home in July of '04 with 200 miles on the bike. The bags have been on it's entire life, virtually every mile. At 162k, I've never had a lock or screw come loose. ;)

Go with what Eric just said...I was typing on my phone and intended to suggest the allen screws, but for some reason wrote phillips. I used blue Loc-tight on my bags back in early 2008, and they have not come loose yet.

FWIW, when I replaced the right bag, I needed to take those screws out, so I was glad it was just blue Loc_tight...Not red, but do whatever you want. :p

 
Well gee, Eric. I guess you just contradicted everything that I just said. :huh:

I suppose this will just be another of those things that we have to agree to disagree about.
The forum is about sharing our opinions Fred. Neither of us is god's gift to FJR knowledge, we just share from our unique experiences.

As it happens in this case, I don't share your opinions. I feel strongly enough about it to post my own. Not a slam to you, simply a different point of view. I tried to offer explanations for my choices as well as suggested sources and the correct size of bit. It's about helping those that haven't been down this road yet get the info they need to make their own decision and avoid problems down the road.

 

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