Hard On

[Kevin Daly]

Ok so I was out for a first spring ride and spent about a half hour practicing low spead turns higher spead turns and hard breaking. Usually I do a little of this then a little of that. On this occasion it was convienient to do a set of 4-5 hard breaks (50-0 mph). what I noticed was that on the last 2 runs, i noticed that the feel of the front break changed, became rougher and I got the impression that I was having to apply more effort for the same stopping power. Is this typical? am I breaking too many times too fast?

Keep in mind that I am breaking hard enough to bring the rear tire to 0 breaking value

 

[Geezer]

Brakes get hot from repeated use and they behave differently when hot. Let them cool off a bit between practice stops and they should be fine.

 

[Kevin Daly]

Brakes get hot from repeated use and they behave differently when hot. Let them cool off a bit between practice stops and they should be fine.

Thanks Geez. I am wondering however if others get the same number of repeated hard breaks before they notice differences in operation and... comments on whether it is bad for the discs and calipers. Im not really worried about the pads.

 

[slapnpop]

There's a lot going on in the braking system.

Your profile says '04. How many miles? Stock components or aftermarket? Have the pads been changed? Has the fluid been changed, and when? Has the system been bled, and when?

It could simply be glazing on the pads from overheating, it could be old fluid with lots of water in it boiling and making the brakes soft. It could be old rubber brake lines expanding under pressure and starting to show some age.

Isn't the more important question what can you do to improve the performance, and how much do you want to spend? A fluid flush and new pads can be done for less than $50 on the front, definitely overdue preventative maintenance if it's not been done. You could go for a ~$100-150 set of stainless brake lines while you're doing the fluid, and really firm up the front end. If you want to go balls-out you could spring for the wave rotors and super spendy pads 'n ****, but then you're into a several hundred dollar project. Are you doing the work yourself, or is someone else doing your work. That'll add to the cost equation.

You should also get in there and clean the pistons, inspect the seals, etc.

 

[Kevin Daly]

There's a lot going on in the braking system.
Your profile says '04. How many miles? Stock components or aftermarket? Have the pads been changed? Has the fluid been changed, and when? Has the system been bled, and when?

It could simply be glazing on the pads from overheating, it could be old fluid with lots of water in it boiling and making the brakes soft. It could be old rubber brake lines expanding under pressure and starting to show some age.

04 w/ 22k mi all stock components pads are stock and have about 0.5 cm left. havent changed the fluid but it is still clear in the window.

I will blead the old stuff out and replace it and the pads to see if that helps.

Isn't the more important question what can you do to improve the performance, and how much do you want to spend?

Perhaps, though I dont think people typically 'roll' that hard. But maybe its a sign that the breaks need some help. I do try to do my work but I am not sure I want to break down the pistons.

 

[kaitsdad]

kevin, you are way overdue for a fluid change. I helped a buddy change his original fluid on his 04 last month - and it was the color of stump water. It also contained quite a bit of water.

You can do a quick check - open up the reservoir cover, and look for water droplets gathered on the underside of it. I imagine you'll find more than a few. This would also apply to the rear as well as the clutch.

Change them all. The maint schedule is every 24 months, IIRC.

 

[slapnpop]

Change them all. The maint schedule is every 24 months, IIRC.

That would be correct. But to technically follow the maint schedule you would need to replace the lines, and rebuild the calipers and master cylinder every 24mos as well. Some things are a CYA overkill, methinks, but SS lines definitely have a longer lifespan that the rubbers, and worth the cost for that reason alone.

 

[Kevin Daly]

it was the color of stump water.

Hmm.... doesn't ring a bell. But, I will change it out this weekend and get some new pads to boot! And I'll let you know if I find any water.

 

[Kevin Daly]

Change them all. The maint schedule is every 24 months, IIRC.

That would be correct. But to technically follow the maint schedule you would need to replace the lines, and rebuild the calipers and master cylinder every 24mos as well. Some things are a CYA overkill, methinks, but SS lines definitely have a longer lifespan that the rubbers, and worth the cost for that reason alone.

do you have a perfered product for the SS lines? If i can afford it SS might be a good idea.

 

[twowheelnut]

Change them all. The maint schedule is every 24 months, IIRC.

That would be correct. But to technically follow the maint schedule you would need to replace the lines, and rebuild the calipers and master cylinder every 24mos as well. Some things are a CYA overkill, methinks, but SS lines definitely have a longer lifespan that the rubbers, and worth the cost for that reason alone.

do you have a perfered product for the SS lines? If i can afford it SS might be a good idea.

Gafler and Spiegler. Go visit our boy, Jeff, at Bikeeffects.com

 

[Scab]

it was the color of stump water.

Hmm.... doesn't ring a bell. But, I will change it out this weekend and get some new pads to boot! And I'll let you know if I find any water.

I don't think you'll be able to detect any water. Brake fluid absorbs it. You can't see it. It will boil under pressure, but otherwise it is not noticeable.

 

[Kevin Daly]

Change them all. The maint schedule is every 24 months, IIRC.

That would be correct. But to technically follow the maint schedule you would need to replace the lines, and rebuild the calipers and master cylinder every 24mos as well. Some things are a CYA overkill, methinks, but SS lines definitely have a longer lifespan that the rubbers, and worth the cost for that reason alone.

do you have a perfered product for the SS lines? If i can afford it SS might be a good idea.

Gafler and Spiegler. Go visit our boy, Jeff, at Bikeeffects.com

Hmm... jeff doesnt have Gafler and Spiegler lines listed for an FJR

 

[NightShine]

Hmm... jeff doesnt have Gafler and Spiegler lines listed for an FJR

Really? I found it here: Clicky

 

[Toecutter]

I will blead the old stuff out and replace it and the pads to see if that helps.

Brakes need a dedicated bedding in schedule to achieve high...but not too high....temeratures to eliminate comtaminants, properly burnish the rotor surface and transfer some pad material to the rotor for maximum braking effectiveness. Typically you would do about 10 or 12 hard stops from 35 or 40 to a slow roll , drive and let the brakes cool, repeat the braking schedule and repeat the cool down. This creates heat in the pads/brakes without overheating them.

 

[Kevin Daly]

Hmm... jeff doesnt have Gafler and Spiegler lines listed for an FJR

Really? I found it here: Clicky

How did you find that? maybe I gave up too fast, his graphic makes my laptop grind to a halt

 

[Toecutter]

Okay, I found my original topic on the brake break-in:

Brake pad break-in

 

[Kevin Daly]

Okay, I found my original topic on the brake break-in:Brake pad break-in

Excellent read. Now the last question is break fluids they all seem to be synthetic today. Also the FJR requires DOT 4 but all I could find is DOT 3,4 is that ok. The brand is Valvoline Synthetic. I assume this is OK??

 

[HaulinAshe]

The brand is Valvoline Synthetic. I assume this is OK??

My preferred brand/value.

Kevin, are you not over that hard on yet???

:blink:

 

[jwilly]

I read somewhere if you have a hard-on that lasts for more than 4 hours you should consult your physician?