Has anybody installed Motivation Sliders
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Ok..........What year !?!? Attention everyone...or some of you anyway....put the year in your post, there are differences.
Moko has sliders for 03-05s and you don't have to cut the fairing.
Search Moko here and on the web !
There are sliders for 06s....search.
Moko has sliders for 03-05s and you don't have to cut the fairing.
Search Moko here and on the web !
There are sliders for 06s....search.
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exskibum
~<>~<>~<>~<>~
I have Motovations on mine, too, but I got the ones with the bracket like the Mokos, so no hole cutting required. Really simple -- remove lower fairing, remove one motor mount bolt at a time, and install slider brackets with supplied longer motor mount bolts.
If you're installing the other ones (like I got for my Blackbird) that require cutting the lower fairing panels, here's the drill:
Remove the lowers, and go to the hardware store with one of the motor mount bolts that is going to be the point at which the slider is installed, so you can get a bolt of matching diameter and thread pitch. Buy a bolt and then grind off its head to a conical point. With the lower removed, temporarily replace the appropriate motor mount bolt with this headless, pointed bolt sticking out a little way. Reinstall the lower and then press the lower against the point of the sharpened bolt. That will mark the center of your hole in the fairing. Then remove the lower and drill a pilot hole from the inside out. Next, tape off the outside painted surface where you are going to cut the hole to protect the paint, and use the appropriately sized hole saw in your drill motor from the outside of the panel (with it securely held over a piece of wood as backing), using your pilot hole, to cut through the tape and lower. Install the slider with the longer supplied motor mount bolt and reinstall the lower over it. Repeat procedure for other side.
(THis is a repost of something I posted a couple months ago when someone else asked the same question.)
If you're installing the other ones (like I got for my Blackbird) that require cutting the lower fairing panels, here's the drill:
Remove the lowers, and go to the hardware store with one of the motor mount bolts that is going to be the point at which the slider is installed, so you can get a bolt of matching diameter and thread pitch. Buy a bolt and then grind off its head to a conical point. With the lower removed, temporarily replace the appropriate motor mount bolt with this headless, pointed bolt sticking out a little way. Reinstall the lower and then press the lower against the point of the sharpened bolt. That will mark the center of your hole in the fairing. Then remove the lower and drill a pilot hole from the inside out. Next, tape off the outside painted surface where you are going to cut the hole to protect the paint, and use the appropriately sized hole saw in your drill motor from the outside of the panel (with it securely held over a piece of wood as backing), using your pilot hole, to cut through the tape and lower. Install the slider with the longer supplied motor mount bolt and reinstall the lower over it. Repeat procedure for other side.
(THis is a repost of something I posted a couple months ago when someone else asked the same question.)
Daniel Hice
Active member
I have them on my 06 along with the bar ends and no cutting was needed. They look great!!
chipset
Well-known member
I noticed that noone answered the question. The hole is pretty easy to do. I simply determined the center of the hole location by marking the bolt so it would leave a mark on the inside of the fairing. From there, a nice 2" hole saw cut right through and looks nice. I was worried about it, too.
If you have any questions, just send me a PM.
Toynut
Well-known member
I used a slightly different method to install a pair of sliders on my BBird.
I mounted a laser level with a crosshair pattern on a tripod a few feet away from the bike. With the fairings off, I centered the crosshair precisely on the center of the factory bolt head. I then installed the longer slider bolt in the mounting hole to make sure that my horizontal and vertical alignments were still centered dead-on 5 inches out. I used some tape to put align and index marks on the tank and tail section with the laser lines for reference. After reinstalling the fairings, I marked the plastic (tape again),and used a Unibit to continue to make progressively larger holes. This precise (anal) method allowed me to keep the TOG installation extremely tight fitting (less than a 1/16"). It may have been a bit of overkill but the results came out great! :thumbsupsmiley:
A Unibit is essential to getting a smooth chamfered hole in the fairing plastic. The sharpened-bolt method also works, but, if you don't install the plastic completely flush prior to making the indentation, you may find the mark off a bit, depending on the curvature of the fairing plastics. That might create the need to have to compensate by enlarging the mounting hole in the fairing. :angry2:
BTW, I did install Mokos on the '05 FJR (no drilling required).
I mounted a laser level with a crosshair pattern on a tripod a few feet away from the bike. With the fairings off, I centered the crosshair precisely on the center of the factory bolt head. I then installed the longer slider bolt in the mounting hole to make sure that my horizontal and vertical alignments were still centered dead-on 5 inches out. I used some tape to put align and index marks on the tank and tail section with the laser lines for reference. After reinstalling the fairings, I marked the plastic (tape again),and used a Unibit to continue to make progressively larger holes. This precise (anal) method allowed me to keep the TOG installation extremely tight fitting (less than a 1/16"). It may have been a bit of overkill but the results came out great! :thumbsupsmiley:
A Unibit is essential to getting a smooth chamfered hole in the fairing plastic. The sharpened-bolt method also works, but, if you don't install the plastic completely flush prior to making the indentation, you may find the mark off a bit, depending on the curvature of the fairing plastics. That might create the need to have to compensate by enlarging the mounting hole in the fairing. :angry2:
BTW, I did install Mokos on the '05 FJR (no drilling required).
madmike2
Shtirrenuppenmeister
Au contrere, mon ami! Er, uhm, so I've heard and read as others have posted. They do a pretty good job as the bike will rest on the sliders and the handlebar end weights. Nothing will protect the panniers.
Of course, an event at 65 mph will leave other issues to deal with. :dribble:
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quicksilver
So.., how fast does that thing go?
Hole cutting takes more courage than skill. Here's what I did:
Use any very small bit to make a center hole that lines up perfectly with the existing bolt.
It might take a few holes to get it perfect centered over the bolt.
If the inserted drill bit is centered in the bolt opening, you are aligned.
(as long as the 1st attempt is within a 1/2" of being good, all holes will get cut out anyway)
Use the best aligned hole as a starter guide hole for a 1" wood hole bit.
The plastic cuts easily. But, make sure you keep the bit in line with the bolt centerline.
(not perpendicular to the plastic surface)
Remove the OE bolt.
Confirm that the new bolt does not have damaged threads. (my R&G threads were damaged when new)
Put the new assembly in, according to the install directions.
Torque to correct amount with a torque wrench. (from my memory, 55NM)
Buying a torque wrench is usually cheaper than paying a mechanic to use his.
When you are done, the slidder hides the hole opening.
Oh, I can testify to the R&G slidders (or their cheaper knock off).
I have been down.
$1400 worth of plastic damage. But, zero frame or engine damage.
Exactly what it was designed to do.
Use any very small bit to make a center hole that lines up perfectly with the existing bolt.
It might take a few holes to get it perfect centered over the bolt.
If the inserted drill bit is centered in the bolt opening, you are aligned.
(as long as the 1st attempt is within a 1/2" of being good, all holes will get cut out anyway)
Use the best aligned hole as a starter guide hole for a 1" wood hole bit.
The plastic cuts easily. But, make sure you keep the bit in line with the bolt centerline.
(not perpendicular to the plastic surface)
Remove the OE bolt.
Confirm that the new bolt does not have damaged threads. (my R&G threads were damaged when new)
Put the new assembly in, according to the install directions.
Torque to correct amount with a torque wrench. (from my memory, 55NM)
Buying a torque wrench is usually cheaper than paying a mechanic to use his.
When you are done, the slidder hides the hole opening.
Oh, I can testify to the R&G slidders (or their cheaper knock off).
I have been down.
$1400 worth of plastic damage. But, zero frame or engine damage.
Exactly what it was designed to do.
UPSMAN
Well-known member
Geezer
Parsimonious Curmudgeon
I have R&G slider on my '05. I used a small drill bit to make the initial hole and opened it up carefully with a dremel.
On the left side, the first one I did, I removed the side fairing, put some grease on the head of the engine mount bolt and backed it out so it would touch the fairing to mark the inside of the fairing. I may have used the long bolt that came with the sliders to make the mark, I don't remember for sure. I had to keep sliding the fairing on and off until I got it right. Then I removed the fairing and drilled the start hole from the inside.
For the right side I decided it wasn't worth all the effort to mark the fairing so I just left the fairing on and eyeballed the start hole. Worked fine.
If you use thread locker or anti-sieze you need to reduce the torque when tightening the bolts back up. Tighten the left side first.
On the left side, the first one I did, I removed the side fairing, put some grease on the head of the engine mount bolt and backed it out so it would touch the fairing to mark the inside of the fairing. I may have used the long bolt that came with the sliders to make the mark, I don't remember for sure. I had to keep sliding the fairing on and off until I got it right. Then I removed the fairing and drilled the start hole from the inside.
For the right side I decided it wasn't worth all the effort to mark the fairing so I just left the fairing on and eyeballed the start hole. Worked fine.
If you use thread locker or anti-sieze you need to reduce the torque when tightening the bolts back up. Tighten the left side first.
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cota95
RI Beach Pop
I got mine from Skyway, who is a member. You can find the offer under "Vendor offers"
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=7228
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