Hell Hath No Fury Like a FJR Scorned!

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What Ionbeam was saying (I think) was that the four cylinders do not relate to the two individual exhaust pipes. All four header pipes go to a common plenum at the cat and then that splits to the two exhaust pipes. Even if the two left cylinders were not firing, this would not make the left pipe glow more than the right. Busted cat? I believe that the OP said that there was (apparently) comparable flow out the two mufflers so it isn't a simple restriction in one muffler.

 
What Ionbeam was saying (I think) was that the four cylinders do not relate to the two individual exhaust pipes...I believe that the OP said that there was (apparently) comparable flow out the two mufflers so it isn't a simple restriction in one muffler.
Yes. There is no correlation between the cylinders and the two exhaust pipes due to the common plenum in the cat.

Flow at idle. Unless the pipe is 100% plugged the exhaust flow will seem equal until the rpm becomes quite elevated. I'm not sure if even a properly calibrated hand could tell the flow difference, but a running engine sure would.

 
Put a fresh set of plugs in the bike ASAP. Run the bike for ten minutes, then pull the plugs.

My best guess based on what you've told us is that one or two plugs will come out looking brand new, and the others will have the nice light brown coloring on them. I believe you may have a spark issue, which would make the bike run poorly and could send a fair amount of unburned fuel into the cat, which will get things nice and toasty down there.

 
Put a fresh set of plugs in the bike ASAP. Run the bike for ten minutes, then pull the plugs.
My best guess based on what you've told us is that one or two plugs will come out looking brand new, and the others will have the nice light brown coloring on them. I believe you may have a spark issue, which would make the bike run poorly and could send a fair amount of unburned fuel into the cat, which will get things nice and toasty down there.
Previously, Tesla said:

...I just installed a new battery and no longer have to jump it off from the car. The bike cranked up immediately, doesn't backfire and doesn't die when idling. However, the glowing pipe issue is still present.
 
If a digital infrared thermometer is available,could help a lot!A check with the thermometer on each pipe separately will show if the problem is in the engine and if,in whιch cylinder..An opinion.

 
I'll join the chorus on it being a spark issue, probably a plug. I've had occasions where plug(s) looked fine and showed spark when checked out in the open, bike ran crappy (or not at all). Changed plug(s) and life was good. Most recently I had a Suzuki LS650 with this exact kind of problem after sitting for some months. Except that I didn't have a glowing exhaust pipe (this bike had no catalytic converter).

It's likely a left-side cylinder plug. Although the four pipes sort of collect together it looks to me like the left and right sides don't really cross-mix that much. And a misfiring plug can in fact add hundreds of degrees to the temperature of a catalytic converter.

And viewing your pictures I can only say HOLY THIT. Personally I'd be afraid to ride it.
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But if you do, make it at night: Ghost Rider
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Got her out and rode her hard. She backfired quite a lot but they weren't loud like gunshots, more like a poorly tuned Harley. She also died every time I went below about 1200 rpm. Within about 10 minutes I was at 5 bars and I see white smoke coming out of the area where the cat con is. I've seen this once before when idling in my garage (before sea foam but with fresh gas). I shut it down, let it cool down and headed home but took it easy on her to keep the temps down Got up to 5 bars again in about 10 minutes but this time no smoke. If the pipes were red I wasn't able to see it in the bright sunlight and I checked them several times during the ride when I could stop and get off the bike. As I was about to pull up to my house I see that it goes down to 4 bars briefly so I decided to jump on the freeway and get natures natural 80 mph cooling and it worked to keep her cool but nothing below 4 bars. I went through the gears and lived between 4000 to 5500 rpm for about 40-45 minutes on the freeway going around 65-80 mph. This blast down the highway didn't seem to help the issue. The bike also sounded much louder than usual like I was running open headers (sounded more like a Harley but that's not a good thing). Also power was much reduced. It kinda felt like my old Suzuki GS 500.

Now here is the interesting part. I pulled it in my shady garage where it promptly died. Started it back up and looked at the pipes in the shade--no glow. Kept the engine running and even up to 7 bars but still no glow, however, I noticed the muffler changing colors, not red but it was definitely getting hotter than it usually does. Killed the engine and heard the fan. Turned off the key and turned it back on a few minutes later but didn't hear the fan start back up even though it was still at 5 bars. I'll heat her up again tonight and take another picture in the dark to see whats happening now.

The gas I'm running is still rich with Sea Foam but has been moderately diluted from the first time I used it. I resisted filling up because some of you think it could be my plugs that is the problem. A near empty gas tank is much easier to manage when changing the plugs.

If it turns out to be an injector I'll let Yammy do it. I just don't have time or motivation for a job like that. I haven't researched it but that just sounds like a big job.

 
Pretty sure the fuel rail and injectors are super easy to get to. I know some guys have gotten good results by removing them and sending them off to be cleaned and "adjusted." Something to try maybe.

 
Left side today at 7 bars. This was the side that got bright cherry red in the beginning. What happened?

Pz0Qwke.jpg


Here is the right side at 7 bars. This is new. Hasn't got this hot when I began this saga.

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So what in the wild wild world of sports is going on?! I noticed tonight that when I killed the engine but left the key on that the fan wasn't running. When I turned the key off and then back on, only then would the fan run.

 
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So what in the wild wild world of sports is going on?
Temperature bars are symptomatic and not causal IMO.

See the post directly above yours. I too think you're cat(s) have melted. I foresee a bore scope and maybe used header in your future.

 
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Just over $1000 from a discount on-line store. Dealer over $1200.

Edit: Get the excess fuel fixed before you install a new header and check the cats in the mufflers too! (Borescope) At least for cosmetic reasons, you may wish to replace the toasted muffler. Definitely replace if the cat in the muffler is toasted.

 
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I'm going to try the new plugs route as well. Probably not going to fix it but its cheap to find out.

 
I would completely empty the tank and put fresh uncontaminated petrol (gas) in, preferably a full tank, before trying to run it again.

If you have damaged the cat(s) you should replace the entire header system, can't imagine why you wouldn't at the price quoted above.

It is possible to open the header and remove the cats, it has been done but if you can't do it yourself the replacement option will be a lot cheaper/easier.

 
If you pull the spark plugs, could you please post a picture of them? I'd like to see what they look like. Also, with all 4 plugs pulled, ground each one individually and see if you have strong spark. I do not think this is the issue - no spark won't make the motor over heat - should make it run cooler if anything.

I can't believe you didn't blow the head gasket or worse. 7 bars is not a good place to be. I would not ride it again until you have identified the problem.

I also would not replace that exhaust until the engine issue is fixed. A restricted exhaust will leave the motor down on power and overheat. So I suppose it is possible that this is your only problem. But I still doubt it.

I still think you have a fuel problem. One or more clogged injectors. Like Donal - I'd completely replace the fuel in the tank too. Just empty it out and start with a fresh gallon of gasoline.

Do one thing at a time.

If you can confirm good spark on each plug, there is no point in replacing them.

If I was going to throw a part(s) dart at this, my first shot would be to replace the injectors and while the rail is open, verify and clean the fuel rail too. I'd check all flexible hoses between the rail and the tank, and while the tank is empty, I'd examine it as well for signs of rust. Don't remember if the FJR has a fuel filter or screen or what not, but I'd check and examine that too. Finding good used injectors may be hit-n-miss. How would you know how long the injectors were sitting in old stale fuel?

 
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Based on the pictures and everything else related in the thread to this point, I think the cat broke down internally. I had this happen on a car once and the exhaust area just downstream of the converter glowed cherry red just like in your picture. As the internal materials broke down exhaust pressure moved some of the debris downstream further blocking the exhaust and changing what portions of the pipe glowed red. I speculate this may be what is happening here. The cat probably wasn't finished breaking apart but as the bike was being ridden some of the materials moved downstream leading to blockage on the muffler now. Easiest way to check into this would be to pull the mufflers. After removing the left side muffler turn it upside down over a piece of cardboard and just smack it with your hand a few times. If you start getting debris out of the muffler inlet it's likely cat converter material. This would be the quickest and easiest way to check it out.

Keep us posted.

 
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