HELP! Bike died, no ideas

[default]

I rode the bike 2 days ago, and when I started it the horn & windshield buttons didnt work initially, but then they came on. Only other thing was the F trip, but I knew I was good since id start riding and get at least a bar left. Planned on getting fuel today on the way to work.

Today, I started her up and the high beam switch light was on, but the switch wasnt set to hi. I also noticed again the horn and windshield switches didnt work. When I got to my destination, I checked function of headlight and turn signals and while the turn signal indicator on the dash worked, the lights themselves (and the PO installed LED/buzzers did not activate) and I had no headlights. I did not check the backside.

When I turned the bike off, I checked for codes and got nothing. When I went to turn the bike back on, I tried the switch (and noticed somehow the hazards were on) and the windshield would slightly move up with the hazard indicators, still no actual lights).

I then turned the bike back off (bike had 0 issues starting or driving) and the bike proceeded to start with the key removed.


Rode home, got fuel with the bike running (it started to make a sound like the fuel pump running dry, high pitched squeal which could have been the damn indicator buzzers, but it cleared up in a few minutes of riding). I made it home fine, but the fuel gauge didnt move. I turned bike back off and it tried to turn over again, went to start it up one last time and the high beam light went off, fuel gauge was reading correctly but the bike barely did 2 turns. Turned key off and on again and now I have 0 power, no lights no dash nothing.


I've been suspecting a bad battery, but wasnt sure since the only time I had an issue was super hot starts (short ride in heat, bike would hesitate to start but would work fine). I also noticed last week the LED Baja lights blinking between hi and low.

Please tell me it sounds like a crapped out battery

 

[Mr_Canoehead]

Sounds like ground spider

 

[Queensland Ken]

The bike has been bitten by a spider, classic symptoms.

Time to check all 5 twelve volt neutral connectors for any damage and to treat them, and include the 2 five volt connectors.

 

[default]

whats the fix? and where are the 5v things (and what are they for?)

 

[Ignacio]

whats the fix? and where are the 5v things (and what are they for?)

All this has been detailed and pinned as FJRF009 for your convenience here.

It's also been talked about many, Many, MANY times. Try just the easiest of searches for spider to find 83 pages on the subject.

 

[Queensland Ken]

There is plenty of information on the Forum about them.

The 5 volt spiders are for the transducer / sensor circuits and not part of the bike's 12 volt circuit.

The sensors supply is fed from the ECU and should NEVER be "joined" to the 12 volt neutral circuit.

The location and wire colours are in my diagram.

It sounds like you have a crook S4 spider, flashing fuel gauge and no start a classic symptom.

It may as simple as treating the connector to installing a new wiring harness.

I take it you know nothing of the recall to improve the current capacity of that particular connector ?

I'd suggest looking around at all the posts about it, do some Forum searching.

 

[ionbeam]

There is a Yamaha recall for ground connector S4, if S4 is damaged they will replace the harness. They are called 'spiders' because the ground sockets have a 6 legged shorting bar. Pull the bars, polish them up, grease with dielectric grease (not what I think is preferred but what EVERYONE does, be part of the herd) and say a prayer. Or, cut off the connectors and solder everything together. Perhaps ask the Forum if there are any ground harnesses like the Brodie harness available.

The 5 volt thingies are sensors powered and grounded directly by the ECU for critical sensors like the TPS, Cylinder Identification and Crank Angle sensors.

 

[default]

i was wondering about the 5vs because theres 2 battery tender leads, i was thinking they were those.

i knew about a recall, not sure if mine was done or not (i feel like i was told it was). ill call Yammy asap to find out.

 

[Queensland Ken]

Easy enough to pop the tank to have a look.

The recall only addresses the S4 spider, there has been big problems with the S6 S7 and S8,

All documented here on the forum, the S6 bite is the second most common fault but the bike still runs.

In the USA, I think they put a small mark on the vin plate to indicate the recall was done ?

 

[Proteus1952]

My 2010 model was bit last August. Review all you can on this site about the spider grounds and then carefully inspect each one. I was able to access all of them without removing the front cowling. My undying gratitude to the fellows who posted so much about this problem. All has been fine since my repair. Go for it and good luck.

 

[default]

Well "good" news is the wiring recall was never done, so that *should* cover it. I'm talking with yamaha to make sure they get everything. So there's that. I'm glad I asked before buying a new battery (which I still may need to do, but at least I won't be taken by surprise when it doesn't solve the problem)

 

[Queensland Ken]

That will fix the problem but you must treat the other spider connectors.

I'd suggest carbon grease and NOT dielectric grease, dielectric grease is an insulator, Google it, it may make a bad pin connection worse.

 

[PhilJet09]

Why would the bike start with the key removed? Sounds like he may also have an ignition switch issue.

 

[mcatrophy]

That will fix the problem but you must treat the other spider connectors.I'd suggest carbon grease and NOT dielectric grease, dielectric grease is an insulator, Google it, it may make a bad pin connection worse.

...

Although there's nothing wrong with using conductive grease, I don't believe conductive grease makes any difference. The sliding nature of contacts displaces grease between the the metallic contacts, leaving metal-to-metal contact, that's how they're designed.
One "conductive" grease I've found is quoted to have a resistivity of 117 ohm-cm. Copper is 1.68x10-6, or 0.00000168 ohm-cm. Don't think the grease conducts anything significant.

Use anything to repel water. I generally use petroleum jelly unless it's lamp contacts (which get hot), then I do use carbon grease for its high temperature characteristics, not its conductivity. If normal contacts get hot, you've already lost the corrosion battle.

 

[Queensland Ken]

One "conductive" grease I've found is quoted to have a resistivity of 117 ohm-cm

That is a fairly good value.

Most dielectric grease have a resistivity of around 20 kVolts - mm and conductance figure of around 8×10-14 micro-Siemens per cm and they will definitely not improve the electrical contact patch of the surface.

Anything is better than nothing, to each their own.

 

[mcatrophy]

... a resistivity of around 20 kVolts - mm ...

Not trying to be a smart-arse (well, definitely not "smart" :acute: ), but check your units :friends: .