Help? YCCS clutch engagement adjustment procedure

[Steve in Phx]

I have a 2007 AE. I'm trying to adjust the YCCS engagement RPM. Need help from those that have done it before or have the service manual handy.

I jumped the diagnostic plug under the glove box and I am following this procedure:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/10806-ae-clutch-engagement-is-adjustable/

I'm stuck at step 4 where it says:

While in YCCS diag. mode toggle to:
"Sh_66" to adjust clutch engagement position

What button is used to toggle through the settings to reach "Sh_66"? Mine cycles through different "Sh_**" modes on its own but never reaches 66 and I can't figure out how to toggle it to get to that mode.

Funny thing is, I did this before but can't remember how I did it.

Help? Thanks!

 

[mcatrophy]

I have a 2007 AE. I'm trying to adjust the YCCS engagement RPM. Need help from those that have done it before or have the service manual handy.
I jumped the diagnostic plug under the glove box and I am following this procedure:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/10806-ae-clutch-engagement-is-adjustable/

I'm stuck at step 4 where it says:

While in YCCS diag. mode toggle to:"Sh_66" to adjust clutch engagement position

What button is used to toggle through the settings to reach "Sh_66"? Mine cycles through different "Sh_**" modes on its own but never reaches 66 and I can't figure out how to toggle it to get to that mode.

Funny thing is, I did this before but can't remember how I did it.

Help? Thanks!

I posted the procedure here, note the bit in red

.

I believe some have found that the "four times" operation of the hand shift lever to change the setting is really only once, might depend on year/market or something.

 

[Steve in Phx]

Thank you!

 

[mcatrophy]

Thank you!

You are, as they say, welcome.

Let us know why you wanted to do this, if it works, and if so, was the result satisfactory?

 

[Steve in Phx]

I definitely will. Hopefully I'll get time for it tonight or tomorrow. Life is busy....

In fact I think if this procedure was simplified, more people would want to experiment it. If there is enough interest maybe I'll post it on youtube....

As someone else had also reported previously, my YCCS engagement point got messed up when I adjusted my throttle cable slack. The idle RPMs are good but the auto-clutch doesn't want to release soon enough when coming to a stop.

This is not something I would trust a dealer to adjust for me. I think some time in the seat is needed to fine tune this adjustment.

 

[mcatrophy]

...As someone else had also reported previously, my YCCS engagement point got messed up when I adjusted my throttle cable slack. The idle RPMs are good but the auto-clutch doesn't want to release soon enough when coming to a stop.

...

An observation:
If this started after you took out slack from your cable, I'd be suspicious that you've taken out too much slack so the throttle doesn't relax fully when you close it.

Also, I found the YCC-S worked best with a slightly lower warm idle speed than Yamaha suggest. I always had mine at 900-950 on both my 2006 and my 2010, this seemed to work best for clutch disengaging with the factory-set clutch engagement/disengagement speeds. Never had the stalling issues a low idle speed gives some conventionally clutched FJRs.

 

[Steve in Phx]

I would normally agree about the cable slack but I really wasn't happy with the extra slack it had when I bought the bike. Now it appears to be adjusted correctly and I'm happy with where it's at.

My idle appears to hover around 1050RPM, as indicated by the tach. I tried to reduce it lower but lots of guys on the forum told me this would end in the bike stalling unexpectedly, so I didn't.

 

[mcatrophy]

I would normally agree about the cable slack but I really wasn't happy with the extra slack it had when I bought the bike. Now it appears to be adjusted correctly and I'm happy with where it's at. My idle appears to hover around 1050RPM, as indicated by the tach. I tried to reduce it lower but lots of guys on the forum told me this would end in the bike stalling unexpectedly, so I didn't.

Try a lower idle, be prepared for it to stall. If it doesn't, that may well cure your issue. If it does stall, turn it up again. It's a very easy adjustment.

 

[Steve in Phx]

I lowered the idle and that helped but I really want to adjust the engagement RPM.

I'm confused about the adjustment procedure because it didn't work.

I can get to Sh_66 but when I toggle the upshift button, there is no light to confirm that it made the adjustment. I tried once, four times, even more. I even tried saving by holding the shift select button and the light comes on for 2 seconds indicating it saved, but no adjustment was actually made. I tried this several times. The adjustment isn't happening and I don't know why.

 

[mcatrophy]

I lowered the idle and that helped but I really want to adjust the engagement RPM.
I'm confused about the adjustment procedure because it didn't work.

I can get to Sh_66 but when I toggle the upshift button, there is no light to confirm that it made the adjustment. I tried once, four times, even more. I even tried saving by holding the shift select button and the light comes on for 2 seconds indicating it saved, but no adjustment was actually made. I tried this several times. The adjustment isn't happening and I don't know why.

Below is what the manual says, I can't see anything wrong with the previously posted procedure. One thing not mentioned is the position of the kill switch, this seems to be used frequently in the diagnostic systems. Maybe try that switched the other way from where you were trying?

Below is from the workshop manual:

(Click on image for larger view)



This is from the 2006 manual, but I believe it is the same for your 2007.

 

[Steve in Phx]

Wow. I'm surprised there isn't more detail in the manual.

All this time I thought you guys were holding out on me. j/k

I'll play around with it again later and report back if I can make something happen.

 

[Steve in Phx]

OK I've learned some things. First, I can be a dummy sometimes. Second, the procedural steps are not entirely correct and could use a LOT of clarification.

The reason it was not changing is because I had already adjusted it to the highest RPM setting, therefore there were no more settings to bump to! Duh. Adjusted it back down again.

Life is too busy right now but in the coming weeks I'll write up a clearer procedure for this.

**note: Adjusting the engagement RPM does NOT affect the RPM at which the clutch releases when coming to a stop. AFAIK there is no way to adjust that other than the idle speed adjustment.

 

[revshred]

the part in the instructions in the manual where it says hold the lever for .3 seconds is a misprint, that should be 3 seconds, hope that helps.

 

[Steve in Phx]

Yep. I figured it out a couple weeks ago, just haven't had time to fine tune it.

I was being a dummy and didn't realize that I had already adjusted the engagement point all the way up, so it wasn't responding to my input anymore.

I really wish there was also a way to adjust the "dis-engagement" RPM but that appears to be entirely related to the idle speed.

 

[mcatrophy]

...I really wish there was also a way to adjust the "dis-engagement" RPM but that appears to be entirely related to the idle speed.

What I can tell you is that the disengagement speed appears to follow whatever idle speed the MCU has last measured. In other words, the disengagement speed is high when the cold idle is in operation, and won't reduce until the engine has been at its normal idle, even if you've ridden the bike for a long while, nor will it bring down the engine speed at which it will keep the clutch slipping.

This used to annoy me intensely, if you changed up, it would keep slipping the clutch long beyond where it was necessary.

Come to rest, engine at its warm idle, the disengagement speed would be at its low level after you set off again.

On my GenIII '14, it's sorted in that respect, presumably because the MCU knows what the idle speed will be by interrogating the ECU, which itself controls the idle speed appropriately for the engine temperature rather than the mechanical wax method used on the previous Gens.

A final point, if your reason for wanting to increase the disengagement speed is because the clutch seems to stay engaged so as to keep pulling until the engine speed is forced below the idle speed, this could be because you have a sticking clutch. A clutch soak improved this on both my '06 and '10 in this respect.

 

[Steve in Phx]

A final point, if your reason for wanting to increase the disengagement speed is because the clutch seems to stay engaged so as to keep pulling until the engine speed is forced below the idle speed, this could be because you have a sticking clutch. A clutch soak improved this on both my '06 and '10 in this respect.

Yes, this exactly. A clutch soak did not solve it for me, though it did feel buttery smooth. Lowering the RPMs was the only fix.