HID conversion with hi-lo beam

[Phugedaboudet]

Saw this in MCN the other day:

https://www.vvme.com/product/detail-20022.html

they have one that looks like a halogen output in color but with more light output at a lower power draw, and each bulb can be switched to hi or low electronically, so with the dual bulb kit you can keep both lights on the FJR running. Plus it's supposed to use the original bulb socket to control these, so there's no cutting.

Downside, it's Chinese, but then, what isn't these days?

Financial difficulties prevent me from trying these out for quite awhile. Anyone here already tried em or willing to be the guinea pig?

 

[bramfrank]

There's no shield - it sucks . . .

 

[Toecutter]

The offerings from DDM Tuning have been well-received by many in this forum. I recently purchased one hi/lo capsule to replace my left bulb and will get it installed as soon as I go to put my yet-to-be-delivered crash bars on....

 

[Wicked Webby]

The offerings from DDM Tuning have been well-received by many in this forum. I recently purchased one hi/lo capsule to replace my left bulb and will get it installed as soon as I go to put my yet-to-be-delivered crash bars on....

Toecutter,

Those look good. What color did you go with or do most (that have them) used?

Thanks for sharing,

WW

 

[JamesK]

The offerings from DDM Tuning have been well-received by many in this forum. I recently purchased one hi/lo capsule to replace my left bulb and will get it installed as soon as I go to put my yet-to-be-delivered crash bars on....

Toecutter,

Those look good. What color did you go with or do most (that have them) used?

Thanks for sharing,

WW

Yeah i'd like to know too. Looking at the color charts it seems like either 4500k or 5000k would be the optimal?

What about the Wattage, is 55W HID too bright?

 

[bramfrank]

These dual setups that use an H3 for the high beam put that second bulb so far outside of the focal point as to render the high beam almost useless. And there is again no shield to prevent oncoming drivers from looking at the plasma ball directly. However they throw enough light that you won;t need to switch netween low and high beams anyway.

One interesting thing is that because the high beam is a conventional halogen 55 watt bulb you can use these with a headlight modulator - the bad thing is that in my case the H3s beams point down at the ground, so the full impact of the flashing high beam is compromised.

How would I know? I have a set of what appear to be these exact same lights in a 6,000K configuration - blue painted H3 bulb next to the plasma tube and all.

I removed them from my ride and went back to stock H4 bulbs. Then again, I have proper HID driving lights. Anyone wanting them can have mine for $130 CANADIAN plus shipping for the pair (a full set of two bulbs and balasts - and those ballasts are TINY. You can conceal them in the space below the headlights with room to spare on a Gen-2). In fact you don't even have to disassemble the machine at all to install them - I didn't.

The ideal colour temp for HID lighting is 4200K, though 6000K is a very nice effect - anything higher and it starts to look too blue.

 

[Toecutter]

I went with 4300k.

 

[GalaxyBlue]

4300 for the win!

I am still sold on the ebay kits...

I finally had to replace mine after 2.5 years and 22,000 miles. Very happy camper!

eBay link

 

[KnuckleHead]

I have the DDM tuning kit in 5000k. I had the Chinese version before (of course, I am sure the DDM's are Chinese too) and they worked good for lo beam, but when you hit the highs you would light the top of the trees. The DDM kit is set perfect for the hi and lo. I would recommend the DDM kits...I even bought two more and put them in my cars.

The one problem I have had with all the kits that I have had in MCs (3 in total) is that they will sometimes fail to fire up due to the power needs. There is a whole lot of detail HERE but in a nutshell you need to delay the firing of the HIDs for about 10 seconds to let the voltage recover from the starter. There is a link in that post to a Time Delay Relay from Amazon that I put in as well as Fred W's home made solution.

 

[FJR Flyer]

Saw this in MCN the other day:
https://www.vvme.com/product/detail-20022.html

they have one that looks like a halogen output in color but with more light output at a lower power draw, and each bulb can be switched to hi or low electronically, so with the dual bulb kit you can keep both lights on the FJR running. Plus it's supposed to use the original bulb socket to control these, so there's no cutting.

Just saw this today in MCN, too. The web-site info says its one bulb for both hi and lo beam, and its telescoping. Bulb moves its aim point? Wonder if you can still use the stock adjusters.

Anyone actually install these units?

 

[KnuckleHead]

Saw this in MCN the other day:
https://www.vvme.com/product/detail-20022.html

they have one that looks like a halogen output in color but with more light output at a lower power draw, and each bulb can be switched to hi or low electronically, so with the dual bulb kit you can keep both lights on the FJR running. Plus it's supposed to use the original bulb socket to control these, so there's no cutting.

Just saw this today in MCN, too. The web-site info says its one bulb for both hi and lo beam, and its telescoping. Bulb moves its aim point? Wonder if you can still use the stock adjusters.

Anyone actually install these units?

This is the same type of set up as I have. THe bulbs physically move back a bit when on hi. Everything works as stock. No cuting wires...at least the DDM kit is all plug and play.

 

[FJR Flyer]

This is the same type of set up as I have. THe bulbs physically move back a bit when on hi. Everything works as stock. No cuting wires...at least the DDM kit is all plug and play.

They say the same for this kit, too. No cutting, all plug and play, and easily goes back to stock configuration.

 

[JamesK]

I have the DDM tuning kit in 5000k. I had the Chinese version before (of course, I am sure the DDM's are Chinese too) and they worked good for lo beam, but when you hit the highs you would light the top of the trees. The DDM kit is set perfect for the hi and lo. I would recommend the DDM kits...I even bought two more and put them in my cars.

Which version are you running, the 35W or the 55W?

 

[KnuckleHead]

I have the DDM tuning kit in 5000k. I had the Chinese version before (of course, I am sure the DDM's are Chinese too) and they worked good for lo beam, but when you hit the highs you would light the top of the trees. The DDM kit is set perfect for the hi and lo. I would recommend the DDM kits...I even bought two more and put them in my cars.

Which version are you running, the 35W or the 55W?

55w

 

[vol210]

I have the DDM tuning kit in 5000k. I had the Chinese version before (of course, I am sure the DDM's are Chinese too) and they worked good for lo beam, but when you hit the highs you would light the top of the trees. The DDM kit is set perfect for the hi and lo. I would recommend the DDM kits...I even bought two more and put them in my cars.

I have had just the opposite experience with the DDM. I have gone through four different Chinese setups and so far the DDM ones are the worst for light distribution with the gen I FJR projectors. Maybe it was a different lot of lamps that mine came from. I'm pretty sure all the cheapo companies are stocking whatever ones are available at the time. Here is twenty different versions of the H4-3 (telescopic bi-xenon) lamps. The best performing ones I've tried to date look very similiar to H4-3-9, 10, 11, 12 & 18. Just ordered some 10, 11, & 18 to test. If I find the ones I had before, I'm ordering a bunch . Hopefully they come with the control wiring because it looks like each version does their own thing with firing & switching. The ballast & hi voltage feeds seem standardized, but that's the extent of it. If not I have a few different setups to see if any work <_<