How the H*%l do you remove LT screws?

[blufjr]

I removed the rear wheel and the grease (oil) was spraying out from the hub. I cleaned it up and then went to remove the three screws from the dust cover (Page 4-10 of the manual, item #1) to clean and look into the hub to see if the oil/grease got in there. Note that these screws were to be Loctite'd on per the manual. I was using an impact driver to remove them, thinking they would have been LT'd with blue. The first broke loose with the first hit from a rubber mallet. The next two did not. One of these got the phillips head partially stripped. :angry2: I applied heat from a heat gun and tried again and again. No good. :angry: I kept doing this until the heads of the two remaining screws sheared off. :angry: :angry: I'm thinking that I am now screwed. I drill into the remining screw on one of these and try to reverse turn with an extractor. Still not good as my brain is saying stop before you ruin something and ask for help from the FJRforum experts. :yahoo: I'm thinking that the extactor is causing expansion of the treads and therefore isn't helping.

[SIZE=14pt]Help![/SIZE] What do I do next?

1. Keep applying heat and turning the extractor? I'm affaid that the extractor will break.

2. Drill the entire screw length out (1/2") and try to remove the remains? Will the treads twist out of there?

3. Drill out a larger hole and tap for new threads?

4. Take to machine shop and let a Pro do it?

This is propably an easy resolve for someone that has done it before and knows the easyest solution. If you can make constructive suggestions, I would appreciate it.

TIA

 

[blufjr]

[SIZE=14pt]Help![/SIZE] What do I do next?1. Keep applying heat and turning the extractor? I'm affaid that the extractor will break.

Tried that. Changed to torch heat and gave it that little extra, Easy-out broke off in the hole. F*#%k. :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry:

 

[mattster31]

Snap em off..............drill them out, and tap a new thread. Install a hex head bolt for next time (that's what I did anyway).



EDIT: sorry missed the part about the ez-out snapping off.........that sucks.

 

[Ignacio]

Ditto. I snapped two off, retapped, and use less gnarly locktite now.

But, in my case I was sharing a hub between two different rear wheels. Otherwise, I'd never have bothered to remove the cover except to change bearings.

 

[blufjr]

Thanks you guys. My conclusion too and now confirmed by you two. I'm looking for someone with a drill press to make sure I get good accurate drilling.

 

[FJRay]

Thanks you guys. My conclusion too and now confirmed by you two. I'm looking for someone with a drill press to make sure I get good accurate drilling.

If you were up for a 4 hour drive you could use my mill or drill press.

 

[2WheelTiger]

Nevermind.

 

[blufjr]

Nevermind.

I know, I should have taken care of this at Bryan's. All the tools and lots of brain power there.

 

[jet mechanic]

When you go to remove the other 2 screws, drill through the entire screw, apply heat, then use the extractor.

Worked like a champ for me.

Didn't have to enlarge the holes, but I did go back with a bolt instead of the screws.

Make sure you use a good quality extractor!!!

 

[blufjr]

When you go to remove the other 2 screws, drill through the entire screw, apply heat, then use the extractor.
Worked like a champ for me.

Didn't have to enlarge the holes, but I did go back with a bolt instead of the screws.

Make sure you use a good quality extractor!!!

Exactly what I did but it didn't work for me. I must not of heated it long enough? Mine was a cheap extractor.

Thanks for the advise, and maybe this info will be useful to someone else. As you can see, there are a few of us that have done this and all ended up with broken heads. Yamaha defective design?

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

Use left twist drills when you drill broken screws out.

At this point, you might want to take it to someone with a Bridgeport knee-mill.

Some other info that might help is here: <Link>

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

I removed the rear wheel and the grease (oil) was spraying out from the hub. I cleaned it up and then went to remove the three screws from the dust cover (Page 4-10 of the manual, item #1) to clean and look into the hub to see if the oil/grease got in there. Note that these screws were to be Loctite'd on per the manual. I was using an impact driver to remove them, thinking they would have been LT'd with blue. The first broke loose with the first hit from a rubber mallet.

Well, you got some good advice here -- including the tip about left-hand twist drills.

I'm going back to the beginning (and back-to-basics) -- altho you've probably moved-on, this may help you in the future (and maybe others).

Japanese motorcycle manufacturers have used pan-head phillips screws for decades (6mm screws by the millions) and shop mechanics generally love them b/c they get alot of work thru them.

Cleaning first was good; knowing there was loctite is really helpful, too. Phillips screw heads are sized: 6mm usually requiring a # 3 phillips driver (if you don't know what I'm talking about -- that, could be a problem?). Even then, there are several styles of phillips bits and, probably, only one style fits your screw-head.

A good quality impact driver helps -- BluePoint makes a good one.

I've never considered a rubber mallet the proper tool for the job -- I'd've used a goodly sized ball-peen.

Holding the impact driver firmly, with left-twist set, a really good whack usually loosens.

When blue Loctite is present, heat often aids release. Red Loctite -- even more heat (and patience).

Tapping the screw before attempts may help? Doctoring the fit of the driver in the screw-head may help? There have even been instances of screw removal with a hammer and chisel/drift -- and then vice-grip.

But, millions have been removed successfully.

....and maybe this info will be useful to someone else. As you can see, there are a few of us that have done this and all ended up with broken heads. Yamaha defective design?

I, personnaly, don't mind Japanese phillips-head screws -- but, MamaYama has superceded the part #: SKU: 985(0)(1)7-05010-00 SCREW, PAN HEAD = $.99 ea.

 

[blufjr]

I removed the rear wheel and the grease (oil) was spraying out from the hub. I cleaned it up and then went to remove the three screws from the dust cover (Page 4-10 of the manual, item #1) to clean and look into the hub to see if the oil/grease got in there. Note that these screws were to be Loctite'd on per the manual. I was using an impact driver to remove them, thinking they would have been LT'd with blue. The first broke loose with the first hit from a rubber mallet.

Well, you got some good advice here -- including the tip about left-hand twist drills.

I'm going back to the beginning (and back-to-basics) -- altho you've probably moved-on, this may help you in the future (and maybe others).

Japanese motorcycle manufacturers have used pan-head phillips screws for decades (6mm screws by the millions) and shop mechanics generally love them b/c they get alot of work thru them.

Cleaning first was good; knowing there was loctite is really helpful, too. Phillips screw heads are sized: 6mm usually requiring a # 3 phillips driver (if you don't know what I'm talking about -- that, could be a problem?). Even then, there are several styles of phillips bits and, probably, only one style fits your screw-head.

A good quality impact driver helps -- BluePoint makes a good one.

I've never considered a rubber mallet the proper tool for the job -- I'd've used a goodly sixed ball-peen.

Holding the impact driver firmly, with left-twist set, a really good whack usually loosens.

When blue Loctite is present, heat often aids release. Red Loctite -- even more heat (and patience).

Tapping the screw before attempts may help? Doctoring the fit of the driver in the screw-head may help? There have even been instances of screw removal with a hammer and chisel/drift -- and then vice-grip.

But, millions have been removed successfully.

....and maybe this info will be useful to someone else. As you can see, there are a few of us that have done this and all ended up with broken heads. Yamaha defective design?

I, personnaly, don't mind Japanese phillips-head screws -- but, MamaYama has superceded the part #: SKU: 985(0)(1)7-05010-00 SCREW, PAN HEAD = $.99 ea.

Thanks for the history Joe2Lmaker.

I also moved on and used a 20 OZ. hammer, heat with a heat gun first, then heated it with a propane torch. The impact toll has never failed me before and the phillips head fit was perfect. It must be my eyes, they aren't what they used to be and the garage was kind of dark where I started this project. I haven't moved on to the second headless wonder. As I just wanted to wait for a few days and attack it with this vast knowledge I have been gaining here and elsewhere.

If it wasn't for this I would have been out riding yesterday in the 63 degree weather, but ended up pruning the Spruce tree and ended up with a 5 foot high pile of limbs. HDL item #15.

Thanks to all for the good advise, it really confirms that I almost know what I am doing. It is only when you say I need a EDM to get those screw remains out that I don't.

I still have to put it back together, do a little ride and then remove the wheel to see if the pumpkin is leaking. :crazy: I just hope not.

 

[Herkypilot]

Boy, I can tell you if you snap off an easy-out in the screw it is just about a lost cause! The hardened steal of an easy-out is H-A-R-D! I did this on a bolt I was trying to remove a couple of years ago and I never did get the bolt out after that. I had to buy a new assembly (for the curious - pump motor pulley on an air compressor ). So my choice in the future is to drill out the snapped off bolt and tap.

Herkypilot

 

[yanktar]

Sounds like my life with my 81 Maxim 650 and the exhaust studs. They'd shear flush with the head. I'd drill and try an easy-out which would then snap in the hole. I had to drill all around it to ge it out, then drill a bigger hole for what's called a "dutchman"--a bolt screwed in the bigger hole that you then drill and tap for the stud. After THIS happened enough times (there ARE 8 exhaust studs to shear) I had to have the head heli-arced to put back material. It was better after that but I only used soft bolts, not the hardened studs, because they came out and could be replaced easily.

I HATED that bike when I gave it up!

 

[BwanaDik]

The only way I know of to remove busted EZ-outs is with an EDM machine (Electric discharge machining, I called them the Electro-Distructo-machine when I was using them). If you can find a good machine shop that has one, you can generally take what ever "assembly" that has the busted stuff in it to the shop and have them zap it out. Then clean the threads out and start over. Generally cheaper than buying a new "assembly", what ever it is.

 

[blufjr]

Follow up on what I did and how it worked out.

I took a dremell and ground a concave in the end of the EZ out, then I drilled out the EZ out. Somehow it worked.

I then drilled out the hole and tapped it with a 6mm (I think) and used a hex head screw/bolt. With a new bit, and tap, the actual operation went really quick. I did the other two in matter of minutes after that.

If I knew this was going to happen, I would just start by drilling the phillips head screw first. This is what I did on one of them and it lined up perfectly down the center of the screw.

Cleaning the threads out is the hardest part of the operation. A tap of the original size helped but just forced the treads down in the hole. Multiple times got most of them out. Drilling the larger hole got the rest.

For those that have done this kind of stuff before, this is easy, for those that haven't it is an experience.

[SIZE=12pt]EDIT:[/SIZE] Here are some pictures of the process: Click for Pictures

 

[C&C]

Wow, don't know whether a higher quality extractor would have gotten the original bolt out (which would have meant missioin accomplished). But you were lucky that the extractor was 'cheap' (as a quality extractor would have been made of high strength steel and you would have never been able to drill it out. In any case glad you got the job done.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

How the H*%l do you remove LT screws?<snip>Note that these screws were to be Loctite'd on per the manual.

I applied heat from a heat gun and tried again and again. No good.

What do I do next?

1. Keep applying heat ...?

(not specific to you, 'blufjr' -- but general Loctite info)

In a word: yes. Application of heat is the prescribed method for releasing aneorbic thread locker (Loctite).

If your method of heating isn't working? -- you may need to change your procedure? Maybe a pin-point gas flame is needed to provide a very high temperature in a very local area?

Loctite is good stuff -- but can, certainly, have its issues. After a few classic 'snafus' (on my part), I'm pretty careful with the stuff. :huh: