How to resurrect Yamaha FJR1300 that's been parked in my garage for 7 years?

[Jammer125]

I just posted as a new member and I'm looking for advice on how to resurrect my FJR from long-term storage. My moto is a 2006 FJR1300 with currently 54K miles.

My FJR1300 been parked in my garage and I haven't ridden or started it for 7 years after I became ill and now I'd like to get it running again.

I've had it on a battery tender the whole time and I don't see any rust in the tank. I didn't plan on discontinuing riding and I didn't do anything to prep it for storage, including adding fuel stabilizer.

How should I proceed?

I'm looking forward to any suggestions as to how to bring my ride back into safe raiding condition.

Thanks!

 

[Cyclepath]

I think change the engine oil, rear drive oil, hydraulic fluids (clutch and brakes), look her over for signs of dry rot throughout on rubber bushings, seals, etc.

Likely need to run some Seafoam or similar cleaner through the fueling system (a couple different tanks full?).

I would guess that your original tires could be suspect, so consider putting new skins on her too.

Good luck in your quest.

 

[Dan Cooper]

I just posted as a new member and I'm looking for advice on how to resurrect my FJR from long-term storage. My moto is a 2006 FJR1300 with currently 54K miles.

My FJR1300 been parked in my garage and I haven't ridden or started it for 7 years after I became ill and now I'd like to get it running again.

I've had it on a battery tender the whole time and I don't see any rust in the tank. I didn't plan on discontinuing riding and I didn't do anything to prep it for storage, including adding fuel stabilizer.

How should I proceed?

I'm looking forward to any suggestions as to how to bring my ride back into safe raiding condition.

Thanks!

Obviously, the major stuff.
Check for mouse nests in the air box and elsewhere and chewed wiring.

The battery may or may not spin the engine, do not turn the key on, do not spin the engine until.
Empty the fuel tank and check for rust and old fuel varnish, even get a small inspection mirror or a bore scope to get a better look.
If you find either, it may be a good idea to remove the fuel pump for closer inspection and cleaning of the tank and pump.
Add some fresh fuel (not a tank full), notice if the fuel pump runs for a couple of seconds when the key is turned on, then spin the engine.
With a clean tank and fresh fuel, if the engine spins but doesn't fire, then spark and fuel become the next items.

Fuel may be most likely.
After sitting for 7 years the pintle in the fuel injectors may be stuck. I ran into that problem with a scooter that had been sitting for only 4 years. In my case it was a cheap, simple fix and the scooter ran like it had been started yesterday. Ask me if you encounter those symptoms.

Once the engine runs, then follow Cyclepath's advice about all fluid replacements including radiator coolant.
Good luck and welcome to the circus.


dan

 

[ROUS]

How should I proceed?

Please document this project with pics and keep us updated.

 

[Whooshka]

Been mostly said already

drain the tank add some fresh fuel
clean the air filter
install fresh plugs
fresh battery
change oil and final drive fluid
bleed clutch and brake lines with fresh fluids
a squirt of ACF-50 or similar in all electrical connections

That should get it started and rideable. After that go over the whole bike with a fine tooth comb. Check for dry rotted rubber, corrosion on wires, etc.

Good luck, keep us posted.

 

[Oldjeep]

I'll add to the list - although changing plugs is not really necessary, you should pull them and spray some sort of lube (fogging spray) in the cylinders. I would then rotate the engine by hand a half turn and spray again. Just to make sure that there is some lube on the cylinders and rings. Some of those valves have been sitting open for 7 years

 

[RossKean]

I would remove the sparkplugs and add a teaspoon or so of engine oil to the top of each cylinder. Let it sit for a bit and rotate the engine manually a few times before putting the plugs back and attempting a start. The easiest way of rotating the engine by hand is to put it in fifth gear (bike on centerstand) and use the rear wheel to turn it over. Not easy, but less complicated than removing the side timing cover and using a wrench...

As others have said, fresh fuel, new plugs and a thorough inspection before attempting a start. (Antifreeze, clutch and brake hydraulic fluids can wait until after you get it going.) Clean/lube rear brake pedal, clutch/brake hand levers and shifter linkage. Good chance your battery isn't equal to the task so plan on a new battery or at least a jump start to get it going.

(@Oldjeep made the oil-in-the-cylinders suggestion while I was typing)

 

[Geezer]

I would keep it simple. Drain the fuel with a siphon pump and put in fresh fuel. Make sure the tires are not cracked, then I'd fire it up and see how it goes and stops. Once you know it's good to go, then the normal maintenance items should be attended to.

 

[Rocnsanman]

All good advise. Concentrate your efforts on getting the engine running. If something needs to be replaced or a major issue arises, the cost of repairing may not be worth it on such an old bike. Flushing the brake/ clutch lines, etc. can be done later. As Dan Cooper suggested, don't forget to check that airbox. Good luck

 

[Pete-o]

I can't elaborate on all the great advice given above. I just wanted to say: Welcome Back! FJR's are resilient.

Pete-o

 

[Jammer125]

Thanks for the great info everyone.

I'm immediately flummoxed trying to remove the screw in the picture to get the gas tank off. I used Liquid Wrench, waited 15 minutes and had my wife tap against the allen wrench when I tried to remove it to no avail.

I'm contemplating heating it up with my torch - worth a try? Any ideas before I try using my dremel to cut a slot in the screw head and use my handheld impact driver?

 

[Prosolar]

I would use a chisel and a hammer to break it loose.

 

[DID]

I would try an impact drill with an Allen bit.
Getting the engine going as per the advice here is certainly the priority. Once you’ve got that worked out I would get the brake and clutch fluid out and bleed with new before testing the brakes. That stuff will be ugly and the master cylinders could be all fouled up.

 

[Dan Cooper]

Thanks for the great info everyone.

I'm immediately flummoxed trying to remove the screw in the picture to get the gas tank off. I used Liquid Wrench, waited 15 minutes and had my wife tap against the allen wrench when I tried to remove it to no avail.

I'm contemplating heating it up with my torch - worth a try? Any ideas before I try using my dremel to cut a slot in the screw head and use my handheld impact driver?

Make a stubby allen socket by cutting off a short piece of an allen wrench, just long enough to stick out of a socket by slightly more than the depth of the screw head.
Use a hand impact driver, do not smack your hand or the gas tank with the BFH.

If that ends up rounding out the head of the screw, try using a torx bit that will drive into the screw head with that hand impact driver.

In my very best Elmer Fudd impression, be vewy, vewy kafwl using a torch to heat around a fuel tank.


dan

 

[Jammer125]

Make a stubby allen socket by cutting off a short piece of an allen wrench, just long enough to stick out of a socket by slightly more than the depth of the screw head.
Use a hand impact driver, do not smack your hand or the gas tank with the BFH.

If that ends up rounding out the head of the screw, try using a torx bit that will drive into the screw head with that hand impact driver.

In my very best Elmer Fudd impression, be vewy, vewy kafwl using a torch to heat around a fuel tank.


dan

Thanks Dan. Your idea worked wonders and I'm now taking off the tank.

 

[Dan Cooper]

Thanks Dan. Uour idea worked wonders and I'm now taking off the tank.

Are you removing the tank because you found something inside that you didn't like the looks of??
Or do you have something else in mind??

If you are on the way to removing the fuel pump you might want to read this thread.
It is about a Gen 1 scooter, but most of the removal process applies to all Gens.
https://www.fjrowners.com/threads/before-i-make-matters-worse-fuel-pump.158419/#replies

or this
https://www.fjrowners.com/threads/well-that-was-short-lived.156800/#post-1341804

or this. this is mostly about replacing the o-ring on the return line fitting on Gen 1 fuel pumps, which don't appear on later Gen fuel pumps, but it also includes some fuel pump removal hints.
https://www.fjrowners.com/threads/fuel-leak.153544/page-2



dan

 

[Jammer125]

One spark plug cap/boot is being very difficult to remove. Any suggestions?

 

[Oldjeep]

For future use. Torx bit and a hammer is one of the best Allan bolt extractors. They don't snap, just twist and work 99%of the time.

 

[Oldjeep]

One spark plug cap/boot is being very difficult to remove. Any suggestions?

A plug wire pliers

 

[Whooshka]

You can probably pry up the edge of the cap enough to spray a shot of penetrant in there then try to pull it straight up with a twisting clockwise/counter clockwise motion.