Hub and Spokes Tour from Ajijic, Mexico

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canucklehead-biker

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Sitting in a nice little hotel called the Nuevo Posada next to the Laguna Chapala in Ajijic, Jalisco, Mexico. Getting ready for a "hub and spokes" tour of the area led by John Gilbank of "Riders of the Sierra Madre (https://ridethesierra.com).

Ajijic is a very pleasant little town about 30 mins south of Guadalajara. Really looking forward to the next days travelling around and seeing the sights in the area.

Will post up pictures and a ride report daily (ish). Was over to John's last night, and it looks like the fearless pillion and I will have a brand new F700GS for the tour. Great bike, really looking forward to the "long term test drive" that this trip will allow.

On a side note, we've been in Mexico for 3 days, and so far no one has shot at us, held us up, mugged us or anything else. Not that I expected it. Feel safer here than in most big cities in Canada and the States. Very sleepy, peaceful, picturesque little town, and John and his wife Lynn are outstanding hosts.

Griff

 
Enjoy the food and the sites. I know I really enjoyed the Copper Canyon ride we did with MotoDiscovery a while back and hope you have an equally great adventure on your ride. Good luck and keep the shiny side up.

 
Mas Caminos y mas Amigos! Papa Chuy Viejo can't wait to see more of your Ajijic, Mexico Ride Report Griff: We AZ Beemers stayed in the neighboring mountain village of Tapalpa. Incredibly scenic area, I wish I was riding along with you two right now! Viva Mexico, Viva! Me encanta México!

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"Months of preparation paid off with a fun and trouble free motorcycle trip to Mexico. Seven AZ Beemers went South: Don Stanley, Brian Boles, Melanie Boles, Matt Kas, Enrique Garza, Jordan Meschkow and Noel Campbell.

Friday, October 10: Four of us left a day early to avoid Hurricane Norbert. Good call by Brian “El Jefe” Boles! BB, Don, Henry and Noel were already ready to go with the Banjercito – Mexican Vehicle Import Permit attached to our bike’s windshields. All we had to do at the 21km Inspection Station was to obtain our Mexican Tourist cards. We stopped in the wonderful Sonoran village of Magdalena for lunch. I have always been impressed by Magdalena, a clean and handsome city populated with very happy citizens.

We AZ Beemers learned that Enrique “Henry” Garza’s mother was born in Magdalena. As many of you also know, AZ Beemer Martin “El Gobernador” Osete was born on a rancho outside Nogales, Sonora, Mexico.

We hit an intense and blinding rainstorm between Santa Ana and Hermosillo at 4pm, but made the Hotel Armida in Guaymas by nightfall. We had a nice swim in the pool and fantastic steak dinner in the Armida’s fancy restaurant.

Saturday, October 11: Today’s ride felt the effects of Hurricane Norbert, as we encountered wind gusts up to 50mph; luckily they were mostly tailwinds.

We stopped at VIPS’s in Ciudad Obregon for breakfast; delicious desayuno!

The heat was intense and we had to stop many times for water breaks. We encountered toll booths approximately every 50 miles too and there’re slow.

The four of us spent the night at Hotel La Siesta at Olas Altas, in the old historic section of Mazatlan. We had incredible camarones at El Shrimp Bucket which is attached to the hotel; opened in 1963, the Bucket was the first of the international chain of Carlos Anderson restaurants. Don, aka “Chuy Medina–El Burrito Ballerina” really recommends: The Shrimp Boat.

Sunday, October 12: Another day was spent in Mazatlan at the Azteca Inn, right across the street from the Hotel Playa Mazatlan. On future trips we are not going to make any hotel reservations in advance, we hated the fact this limited our abilities to change plans on the run and enjoy new found hotels.

Monday, October 13: Rode to San Blas and arrived early enough to enjoy the pool and to explore La Playa. Had delicious fried fish on rice – pescado late lunch under a palapa on the sand looking out at the waves. AZ Beemer Jordan Meschkow flew into the Puerto Vallarta Airport at 4pm and picked up a rental BMW F650GS. After a long routing in a pounding rainstorm, AZ-J joined the AZ Beemers Group at 10pm. BB took him into town via taxi to get Jordan fed and our group was now up to five AZ Beemer riders.

Tuesday, October 14: Rode to Tapalpa via Tala and Santa Cruz de las Flores. We stopped for photos along the way at the beautiful valley….overlooking Laguna Sayula. The roads through the Sierra de Mascota mountain range reminded me of the roads in the Pyrenees that Stef, Hook, Mek, Caba, Orestes, Dr. Bob and I rode last May!

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We stayed at the charming Casa de Maty.

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We were also fortunate to be there for the Harvest Moon Festival Parade. The town was charming and the local school children were dressed up that day as harvest items, corn, squash, and apples and were cute ninos!

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Wednesday, October 15: Let the BMW Mexico Moto Clubs International Convention Begin; FIESTA! Cinco amigos rode to the Guadalajara airport where we met Melanie Boles flying into the aeropuerto.

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BB put Mel in a cab and the five bikes followed the taxi to the Fiesta Americana; base camp for the next two nights of the Rally. We boarded buses at 7pm with our newly found 700 amigos and rode to the Estado de Jalisco Cultural Cabanas.

At the hotel we were united with our seventh AZ Beemer – Mr. Matt Kas arrived. We also adopted an eighth AZ Beemer–Chuck Denison of Laramie, Wyoming became part of AZB and we’re now the Magnifico Ocho Amigos!

In the hotel was a parade of BMW motorcycles. In the fifth and sixth pictures is the BMW that started beemerdons on a forty year career of owning Beemers: 1966 BMW R60/2. A very similar-looking bike, the 1968 BMW R50/2, is what AZ-J learned to drive on from his Dad, and started AZ-J’s forty year streak of riding motorcycles."

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https://ridethesierra.com/tours/hub_and_spoke Griff, will John be taking your group over to Mascota? You will love this typical Mexican village, Mascota is the friendliest place I have ever ridden to!

Ai Hombre Griff, just dreaming of Lake Chapala makes me want to point my moto front wheel South to join you two in Mexico muy pronto!

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Friday, October 17: "700 bikes lined up at the Plaza Minerva fountain and after 3 laps of the Circle Fountain we were off on a 320 kilometer ride West. The scenery was jungle like fantastic and the riding pace was so muy rapido!

Our route was Guadalajara, Ameca, Mascota and arriving in Puerto Vallarta.

We all stopped in Mascota for lunch in the town square – El Zocalo y El Jardin. Local schoolchildren had booths selling delicious luncheon goodies and local mariachi bands were playing up a storm. Mas photos opportunity."

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Mi Hermano Griff, por favor I need to ask that you do something special for your Papa Chuy Viejo! If you ride over to Puerto Vallarta would you please say Hola to my Mexican Girlfriends Maria and Consuela for me, I'm sure that they still love me and miss me!

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Ok… had some internet problems, but things appear to be back working now.

As mentioned, we’re in Ajijic, Jalisco State, Mexico for a few days of riding with the good folks at Riders of the Sierra Madre. The rest of the crew came in yesterday, all from Alberta – a couple from Lethbridge, a solo rider from Lethbridge, a couple from Red Deer, and us from Calgary.

Ajijic is a sleepy little town on the north shore of the Laguna Chapala, about 30 miles from Guadalajara. Quite a large ex-pat Canuck and American population here and in the neighbouring town of Chapala just to the east.

Our hosts for this ‘hub and spokes’ tour are John and Lynn Gilbank, Canadian ex-pats who run the touring company. We got in on Sunday, and spent a few days just relaxing and wandering around exploring the town and enjoying the sites. This is the rooftop garden at the hotel.

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And this is the patio that leads off the dining room.

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We found this fella behind a bar on the lake:

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John and Lynn have been exceptional hosts, welcoming us into their home and treating us like family. I can’t say enough good things about these folks!

Wednesday was market day, and Lynn took us through the open-air street market next to the soccer stadium in Ajijic. Incredible sights, smells and colours – the ‘real’ Mexico that you’ll never see if you stay in the resorts on the coast.

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Lucie found a vendor selling hand-made carpets and tablecloths, and got a lesson in bargaining. I reckon we'll need an extra bag to carry home all the stuff.

Thursday was the first riding day. I must have eaten something on Wednesday that my system wasn’t happy about – I was up at 2 am with a case of “La Tourista”. Drugs managed to calm things in time for the ride, but I didn’t feel anywhere close to 100%. Fortunately, it was a really short ride, more to give us a brief intro to Mexican roads and to get acquainted with our bikes.

Our mount for the next few days is a brand new BMW F700GS

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Excellent bike and seems ideally suited to the secondary roads here.

We had a briefing from El Jefe, (John)

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gassed up the bikes, and then headed a short distance down the lake to the small village of Mezcala,

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where we took a short boat ride out to Isla Mezcala. This island was fortified by the local people during the war of independence with Spain, and withstood repeated assaults from the Spanish until the end of the war in 1816. The indigenous people who built it started the war without weapons, but every time the Spanish attacked them and lost, they gathered up the weapons from the defeated Spaniards, soon amassing a formidable arsenal, including canon. The fort on the island is being rebuilt, with a target of completing the major part of the restoration and the interpretive centre by 2016, in time for the bicentennial of the end of the revolutionary war.

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Interesting place, followed up with refreshments and some interesting local food at an outdoor restaurant near the dock. Apparently the word got out that some gringos were in town, and these fellas showed up to serenade us

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This is Larry Marasco (from Lethbridge) after sampling something called shrimp Diablo.

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Leaving the village, we went past the cemetery, which was still decorated for the Day of the Dead

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John then led us home via a bit of a roundabout route, including lots of “topés” (speedbumps… some are even marked!”), a twisty route that led back toward Guadalajara and a one of the innumerable “Retornos” that let people U-turn without crossing the centerline.

Parked the bikes back at “Casa Sierra”, strolled the couple of blocks to the hotel for a quick shower, then back to John and Lynn’s for a get together

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and fantastic meal that Lynn had prepared for us: ribs, roasted zucchini, scalloped potatoes, etc, etc, etc… The picture below really can’t do it justice.

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Rolled back to the hotel around 10. Friday was a longer ride out to some pyramids and active archaeological digs north of here – another interesting day for the next post. :yahoo:

 
Wowzer!

GREAT RR so far, Jeff :D

Bonjour et xoxo to Lucie !

 
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Outstanding Ride Report Griff and Lucie, Muchas Gracias! Anxiously awaiting the next installment on your Jalisco Estado adventure, my home may be in Arizona but my Heart is always in Mexico! Viva Mexico, Viva!

 
Next instalment as soon as I can get a decent enough connection to upload pictures.

Don, we did visit Tapalpa... subject of an upcoming chapter.

Didn't get over to the coast, where I'm sure Consuela is crying herself to sleep every night from missing you.

Patience amigos... there are mucho caminos sinuosos coming!

 
Friday was the fearless pillion’s turn to enjoy the pleasures of La Tourista – not great :blink: .

Once again, modern science came to the rescue, and she was ok to start the ride. Barb (no, not THAT Barb… one half of the Larry and Barb couple from Lethbridge) didn’t fair so well. She had eaten the same Cerviche (some sort of shrimp salad thingy) yesterday in Mezcala as Lucie, so perhaps that was the source of the illness, but in any case she wound up taking the day off to recover.

Ride # 2 on the “Hub and Spokes” tour wound to the northwest through some really beautiful farm country and villages. Getting the hang of this Mexican road etiquette… it seems that most of what we would consider traffic laws in Canada and the States are merely suggestions here. Once you get the hang of it, it is actually quite civilized and responsible – and bikes seem to enjoy a special station here similar to that enjoyed by bicycle couriers in large cities in Canada and the US.

One of the bikes in our group has a GoPro mounted, so hopefully we can get some video up of some of the rides.

On the way out to the day’s destination we went through a small village where a flood had turned the main street into what amounted to an offroad track complete with sand traps. Don’t have a picture (I was kinda busy keeping the shiny side up) but Scott (the Go Pro fella) was riding behind and apparently got some interesting footage that I’ll post up once I can access it. It was muy interesting, but note to BMW – you gotta sort out a way to allow the ABS and traction control to be turned off on the F700 while you’re on the fly – hitting this washed out bit rather unexpectedly and having ABS and traction control wasn’t a great deal of fun, but you can only select on/off when the bike is parked. Dumb.

Stopped at Hacienda el Carmen, a beautifully restored old Hacienda converted to a restaurant, hotel and spa. Very, very classy.

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Had a cool drink of not sure what (tamaringo?) but it tasted good, and bought a bottle of the estate tequila on my way out. Apparently very good stuff at close to 80 bucks a bottle – yeah, 80 EFFIN’ DOLLARS – 1300 Pesos for a bottle of tequila - it had BETTER be REALLY, REALLY good. Ride report on that in the future ;)

I had Mr Happy look after it for me

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Left the Hacienda and then headed out the final few miles to Guáchimontones.

Guáchimontones (which apparently means “A shit-load of Guachi (a type of tree)” is an archaeological site that was discovered in the late 1960’s that features round pyramids

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These pyramids were built something like 300 BC, so that makes them WAY older than any Aztec or Mayan ruins – like over a 1000-1500 yrs before. The fella who discovered them (overgrown with vegetation and trees, and essentially just piles of rubble) spent some time convincing his peers that the site was a significant find and getting the funding together to investigate. In the end he got funding and spent the next 40-odd years working the site, now considered a major cultural/heritage resource. Very cool place.

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The guide/interpreter had some things to say about the so-called “end of the world” in 2012. According to him, the Mayans and other pre-hispanic civilizations in Mexico measured life cycles in periods of 50-odd years, bracketed by solstice/equinox cycles. The end of 2012 is just another turn of that life cycle calendar, and so there’s no need to hold off buying that 2013 FJR.

We saddled up after a very informative tour, and headed into a nearby village to get some grub.

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El Jefe John sorting things out with the waiter. This place specialized in frogs legs.

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Very relaxing meal next to the lake, then another “spirited” ride back to Casa Sierra to relax over some cold ones, then off to another outstanding restaurant with John and Lynn. This one was an Argentinian place that specialized in very fine beef.

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I had one of the best ribeye steaks I’ve ever eaten. And I’m from Alberta.

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Lucie had grilled salmon with a spinach/apple/goat cheese salad

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And they also had a 26 oz beef tenderloin on the menu, which some of the folks sampled.

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And in case you’re wondering, I think Lucie and I got out of there with drinks and tip for under 40 bucks.

Viva Mexico!

Next up is Tapalpa… BeemerdonS posted some stuff up earlier. Was really looking forward to this, partly because of what Don mentioned, and partly because there was supposed to be muchas caminos sinuosos y curbas peligrosas on the way there. :yahoo:

Griff

 
Ride #3: Tapalpa

Over to Casa Sierra Saturday morning for a longer ride, this time via a somewhat roundabout route to Tapalpa, a town up about 7200 feet above sea level.

First we had to get there. We retraced part of Friday’s route to get away from Ajijic and Chapala.

This is Trevor from Lethbridge on a F700GS

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This is Scott and Karen from Red Deer, R1200GS

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And this is Larry and Barb (recovered from yesterdays bout with the trots) also on an R1200GS

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Photos courtesy of the Fearless Pillion

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We climbed steadily upwards to our first stop, the picturesque town of “Unpronouncable”

I think they just gathered up the bag of Scrabble tiles and tossed em, with extra points for all the Z’s and X’s.

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This town has a central market square, where there’s a stall that sells fresh-squeezed fruit drinks – orange, pineapple, grapefruit and a few other types, some of which I can even pronounce ;)

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Also lots of fresh meat hanging in open-air stalls ready to be bought – or devoured by the flies, or any of the stray dogs that happens by.

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After the XL Foods fiasco in Alberta earlier this month, I’m sure the food inspection folks from Canada would be having kittens if they saw this place. Especially the way they bring in the meat.

Hint: when they say meatwagon, they don’t mean ambulance!

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This is Ray, one of our guides, enjoying a cool glass of not exactly sure what.

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Ray came here 14 years ago from the States, and he’s gone completely native.

Famous Ray quote:

Tour participant (as a local whizzes past a rest stop on a motorcycle without a helmet): “Ray, do they have helmet laws here? “

Ray (in broad Texas accent): “Sure they do. They also got stop signs and speed limits… and we ignore them too.” <Shit eating Grin>

Saddled up and made good time through the twisties to the alpine town of Tapalpa.

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The rides are all punctuated by great lunch stops. Today is no exception.

We ate in a great little place overlooking the square.

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I had the Carne Asada. Mmmmmmmmm

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While Lucie had Chiliquiles con Pollo

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After lunch we rode to an overlook close to town where they launch paragliders and hang gliders for a panoramic view of the valley below.

Barb saluting the flag/windsock

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An intrepid flier getting ready

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and launching off the edge

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And disappearing into the distance. They were landing in a field down near that lake.

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Digesting lunch before the downhill twisties back to the valley

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Sorry, no pictures of the ride down. Apparently the Fearless Pillion was white-knuckling the grab rail into submission all the way, and so the camera stayed put. Can't say as I blamed her. Between the off-camber, tight, twisty road, the broken pavement, loose cattle, stray dogs, and traffic in both directions... it WAS a wild ride! :yahoo:

Next up is the Barancas (sp?) a series of twisty canyons north and west of Guadalajara.

Griff

 
Trip #4: Loop through the Barancas north of Guadalajara

Early start to avoid the Sunday morning traffic as we went to the historic centre of Guadalajara to the cathedral and opera house.

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This is one of the decorations for the recent Day of the Dead, made by local high school students. They were set up all around the square.

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Stopped in a café for a really good “Americano” and croissant (it ain’t all rice and beans here folks!) and had a look around the square before saddling up to head out of town into the canyons.

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The ride up around Tapalpa was muy bueno, but today was mucho mas bueno (sorry for my Spanish BeemerdonS, but you get the picture.

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We blasted north through high desert canyons, maybe even going a bit over the posted speed limit in places, to get to Los Burritos de Moyahua, where their specialty is –guess what? - incredible burritos as well as other traditional Mexican fare.

After filling up on burritos, we cut across another desert highway to the southbound route back to Guadalajara and home base. More twisties. I don’t think I’ve done more left-right-left-right since basic training in the Army ;)

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Karen and Scott (from Red Deer) shot a bunch of video as they followed Lucie and I through the “caminos sinuosos” - I will post up as soon as I get it.

I’m here to swear on a stack of bibles that I have NEVER had so much fun on two wheels. EVER. Even scraped hard parts going around corners. Yep. Me. Captain Slow. Scraping parts on corners. Wonders will never cease. Must be the sun making me muy loco.

The roads were great, the sun was hot, and the vistas were spectacular. Got into a traffic jam on the outskirts of Guadalajara, and Ray did what we expected him to do.

He said “**** this!” and jumped the bike down into the ditch to go off-road around the jam, hop the curb back onto pavement and get back on track to the city. He was the lead, so we all followed – hey, that’s what good little sheep do right? You really gotta love the liberal interpretation of the traffic laws here.

Supper tonight was at an outdoor patio on the town square. Lucie and I ordered a Mocajete – near as I can figure it’s a volcano of meat cheese and roasted other stuff served in a steaming cauldron. Trust me, it tastes WAY better than it looks. Muy bien!

Chased that with a couple of cold Negra Modelos… heaven.

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Crawled back to the hotel, and slept like a log.

Griff

 
Last ride – Around Lake Chapala and then up to Mazamitla

Saddled up and headed west from Ajijic toward Jacotepec and then around to the south side of the Laguna Chapala to the pueblo of Petatan to meet some other Canadian tourists – thousands of white pelicans that spend their winters here, but are born in lakes across the northern prairies. Guessing no one checked THEIR passports or rifled through THEIR luggage on the way down here…

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Not a pelican, but cute.

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In Petatan we managed to break one of the few remaining traffic laws we hadn’t already made a mockery of – in this case, it was driving the wrong way down a one-way street to get out of the waterfront area. Not sure why a village with no traffic needs a one-way street, but whatever. Next we were back on the 2-lane headed east toward Sahuayo, a larger agricultural town that’s major claim to fame seems to be that it has a McDonalds (one of only 2 I’ve seen so far, the other was in Guadalajara). We went through Jiquilpan, then turned up into the hills through some nice sweepers to the village of Mazamitla.

This is another “alpine village” similar to Tapalpa but seemed more developed and more crowded. We were directed by a local cop to park in a no parking zone next to the central square and then wandered over to a restaurant for a bite to eat.

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Picture of the inevitable church.

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Saw my first pot dealer in Mexico

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Some more local colour. Not entirely sure what this thing is. A REALLY big pole set up in the town square, with steps in it so (presumably) it can be climbed. No idea why anyone would climb it. It was so tall, it wouldn’t fit in the frame for the picture. Another Mexican mystery.

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Soon it was time to leave, which was a bit sad as it meant we were going to be turning the bikes in and the riding would be over.

By this point in the tour, we’d all pretty much learned that topés are great passing zones, especially on a bike with some suspension travel and ground clearance. Here we have some passing left, some right, at a topé somewhere near Ajijic.

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We made good time through descending sweepers and our final topés of the trip, arriving back at Casa Sierra for some cold ones around 4pm.

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We all gathered back at the Casa Sierra for a delicious farewell dinner, which Lynn had prepared despite a power failure. Resourceful gal !

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And now we’re relaxing again at the Nuevo Posada, headed back to the cold of Canuckistan on Friday afternoon. Time to reflect on the trip…

What can I say about Mexico?

Well, it isn’t the scary, violent place the media has described, that’s for sure. The people are friendly and generous, the landscape is incredibly rich and varied. We didn’t get held up, mugged, or shot at. Only headless bodies I saw were critters that were squashed on the highways. Never got sick from eating the local food, at least not anything that a dose of Pepto or Imodium couldn’t cure in a hurry. The weather was fantastic, the roads were fantastic, the BMW F700GS was fantastic, the friends we made on the tour were fantastic, and John and Lynn from Riders of the Sierra Madre were well beyond fantastic.

We were talking about it last night among the group – how can you describe riding here to someone who’s never been? Honestly, there really aren’t words. Hand ‘em a thesaurus and open it to the page with all the synonyms for “fantastic” or “amazing” and that doesn’t doesn’t do it justice. Those are only words, and I could describe it to you all day, but really, you have to come here for yourself and experience it. Riding down here felt … free. And that’s something we’re definitely missing back home. BeemerdonS is muy loco, and he's wrong about a lot of things (ok...MOST things), but he's dead right about this: Mexico is a magic place, a motorcyclist’s dream, and I can’t wait to get back for more.

Arriba!

Griff

 
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Thanks so much for taking us along. Well done Griff!
+1, Gunny; a Fantastic Ride Report and one of the very best that has appeared on our Fine FJR Forum, that expatriate Canadian from Manitoba with the yellow helmet (Old Michael) has got nothing on you Griff.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=148483&st=0 Mi Motocicleta ride to Cabo San Lucas en Baja California Sur January 25-February 4 sold out in 24 hours, but You and Lucie are most especially invited along!

With your kind permission I wish to post your Ride Report to the AZ Beemers Club, being on the Border we're always riding Mexico. Also, I sent You and Lucie a special invitation to Ride Mulege October 2013!

 
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Thanks for the positive comments Don... feel free to cross post to the Beemers... we were after all in your backyard AND riding Beemers :)

OM may be one of the only literate beings ever to come out of Manitoba. Might have something to do with the Celtic blood. Us Welshmen feel a certain kinship with the potato savages across the water.

PM received! Will discuss with the Commander in Chief!

Griff

 
Hola Griff, both Papa Chuy Viejo and Brian "El Jefe" Boles knew that the long tall pole is for use by Los Voladores (The Flying Men en Espanol)!

That long tall pole is for "voladores". Google it.

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And yes, that area north of Guadalajara has some AWESOME roads.




Ritualistic dance performed in Mexico for centuries, here captured in Bosque de Chapultepec in Mexico City. The flute and drum are played by the person at the top of the pole, while the 4 others descend to the bottom. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danza_de_los_Voladores

 
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