Hydraulic Clutch

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Canadian FJR

Canadian FJR
Joined
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I just finished my last ride of the season (on the FJR) and it's time for a little clutch work before spring. I am installing a new Barnett clutch spring conversion kit and maybe new friction / metal plates depending on how they look.

While apart, I wanted to pull the clutch push rod & ball but also but see a "plate" in behind the clutch cylinder. Any thoughts on how to remove this plate?

There is a good picture of it in the manual on page 4-54 but no description on how to get it out.

Thanks,

Canadian FJR

 
When you remove the spring plate (6 bolts) you expose what looks like a bolt in the center. It just pulls straight out, and the ball and rod are down in that hole, retrievable with a magnet stick. If the bike's on the center stand instead of the side stand, the ball may roll out on its own. Catch it if it does. :) Clutch slave cylinder can stay where it is, no need to remove it.

OTOH, there's no need to remove the rod, either. The ball you want to remove just to keep it safe, so it doesn't fall out, maybe into the crankcase.

BTW, stuff all the crankcase openings with rags when you remove the clutch cover. You know that part, right? :)

Oh.... was "Quit touching things" the previous useful reply??? I think it was.....

 


Looks pretty.

Both clutch rods (short & long) have a small indent. Is this the way they should be in order to trap the center ball bearing or

did they wear over time and should be flat?

Canadian FJR

 
Canadian FJR said:

...Both clutch rods (short & long) have a small indent. Is this the way they should be in order to trap the center ball bearing or
did they wear over time and should be flat?
...
Can't answer about indents, but they are shown asymmetrically for the OEM clutch in the workshop manual, 6 and 8 in the diagram below.

(Click on image for larger view)



 
There is no spec for length or end wear for the two clutch rods. Only for the straightness of the longer rod.

My thought is that any wear would be transparent since the hydraulic action of the Slave cylinder would take up any extra slack created by end wear and still result in the same stroke. As long as ends do not look cracked or damaged I think you'll be alright.

The other option would be to order the new parts and have a look at them / measure their length. Looks like the long rod is $40 and the short one is $18 for a 2003..

 
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Why Barnette instead of stock?

Is there that much advantage?

How many miles on the original clutch?

This information may help decisions for future forum folk.

Dave

 
214,000 km on the stock clutch. Stock clutch is still working fine but the friction zone is not as smooth as it use to be. I always liked the Barnett design and had one all ready to install in my old FJ-1200 but never got it installed before we parted ways. When I found one for the FJR I decided to try it. I'm sure that there is very little difference for regular street riding but for the occasional spirited ride it should engage stronger but smoother. I still have to measure the friction plates and may replace them also. If they need to be replaced, they will be stock.

Canadian FJR

 
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I have read in several articles stating that the "pink" dot on the friction plates need to line up at roughly the 2:00 position. What is the importance of this?

Canadian FJR

 
Need to confirm some info;

The book ( from post #11) states 8Nm for the 6 spring bolts, is this accurate? This seems pretty light to me. Any thoughts?

Canadian FJR

 
They are only 6mm screws threaded into the aluminum alloy clutch boss. All they need to do is compress the clutch spring. Being under constant spring tension they will not come loose. This is something I would generally not use a torque wrench on. Just snug 'em up.

 
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