Hyperlight connections...

[SR-71]

After two years I had my '05 FJR farkled to the point where I could barely see the original bike. Well, it wasn't quite that bad, but when I recently upgraded to my '07 I decided to forgo the big farkle list and only add what I consider to be the bare essential farkles; a fenda extenda, a magnetic tank bag to hold my intercom and FRS radio, and Hyperlights. On my '05 I wired up my Hyperlights by using the supplied squeeze type mating connections. That worked fine, but when the dust settled it sure didn't look very professional.

I'm curious if anyone knows of where I might be able to tap into the wiring on my '07 for the; park, brake, the turn signal light wiring, and a key-on power lead somewhere; perhaps with using Yamaha factory "Y" connections tapped into the factory harness? Or something along those lines.

 

[weekend rider]

SR-71: What you need to do is phone hyperlites and get the wiring diagram for an 07 FJR. You will be able to tap the wires under the seat by the rear wheel section. wires will tuck away nicely. The diagram tells you the color of the wire on the FJR to tap into

I just put a set of hyperlites on my bike except I have a luggage rack from Premier Cycle Accessories and mounted them at the back of the rack on the underneath side, I made my own bracket for mounting. They are hardly noticeable until you hit the brake than they lite up nicely.

 

[Bounce]

I found this to work without the trauma to the system that any kind of tap requires. Simply pull the pin from the back of the gang connector and solder the hyper-lite wires to the connector; slipping it back into the gang connector when done.

https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/hyper/hyper.html

 

[SR-71]

Bounce - I read through that connection description and it sounds like a great idea. My only question is, I wonder how one would temporarily dislodge the pins inside that power connector (to solder the new wiring on)?

 

[Bounce]

Easy peezy! Look at the back of any gang connector and you'll see that each "pin" is (usually) held in place by a tab that springs into place as the pin is pushed into the gang connector. In the electronics world they use a thing called a "pin extractor". Instead of buying a uni-tasker like that, simply eyeball the type of tab your pin uses, pick an appropriately-sized jewelers screwdriver (or other small tool), and use it to flatten the tab as you gently pull the pin out from the back of the gang connector.

The key word is "gently". When you have the retaining tab retracted you shouldn't need any real force to extract the pin. It will easily slide out.

Do your magic by desoldering the pin from the wire and soldering in 2 wires into the back. Alternately, you can clip the wire back far enough to act as a "pig tail" that you can then use to solder 2 wires to (your original and the new one in a Y). In some cases, there's enough clearance that you can simply solder the new wire to the outside of the "neck" of the pin. Look and get creative with a goal of making the end product robust and resistant to corrosion (something those vampire splicers aren't).

When done, slide the pin back into position and you're good to go with a final product that's as robust as the OEM wiring harness began.

 

[BrunDog]

I just stripped away a little bit of insulation on the brake light wire, then soldered to that. Liquid electrical tape, then real electrical tape: perfecto. And totally reversible. Easier than de-pinning the connector, but certainly not as crafty. Plus, solder will usually not stick to hard metal surfaces unless you use flux first. The flux in the solder is usually not enough.

-BD

 

[BentAero]

https://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html

Wally-Mart... Get the small gray ones...

 

[Greg E.]

I cut open the wiring bundle running back to the brake lights and tapped in there. I was able to get all of the taps into a area approx. an inch and a half long. I then used cable ties and tape to sucure everything. One more advantage to cutting into the bundle was that I was able to hook the power to my radar detector to a key switched source.

-Greg-