I broke this piece..

[mikerider]

Today I removed the driveshaft and U-joint the first time on my 2014 to take a look and they were dry. I also removed the left side footpeg plate to lubricate the shift arm. The front bolt has red locktite and it was very hard to remove. Even with a SnapOn torx T50, it chewed up the bolt head. I got another bolt from Homedepot. Other bolts have blue locktite. So far so good, then I broke the piece that connects the footpeg plate to the engine! (See picture) looking at the structure itself, it seems that I'll be fine even without this piece?

I'll order one just in case. It was a $70 mistake!

 

[mikerider]

Embedded pic to the original post.

 

[SLK50]

I never understood the reason for that piece of metal.

 

[Pterodactyl]

Hmmm. Maybe the real question is, was this procedure really needed on a 2014? Even lubing the often dry splines is a feel good procedure. The splines do not move relative to each other.

 

[Brodie]

Oh the joys of working on your own equipment!

Good for you on taking the initiative to tend to these preventive measures. Now you have a baseline on the condition if this area. You may never grease it again, doesn't matter as you know it's in good condition. There are a lot of items the new owner needs to go through on the bike; tackle that list and you will have confidence in the overall reliability of the machine.

Replace it, and forget about it. Keep your bike whole.

Most of all, enjoy the beast, this is supposed to be fun!

Brodie

;-)

 

[wfooshee]

I still can't get over how everyone complains about how dry those splines are.

They hardly move against each other!!!! There is NO motion in them that has anything to do with the shaft's rotation. The only motion results from suspension travel, because the u-joint can't be at the exact same point the swing arm pivots from, so as the rear wheel goes up and down, the drive shaft has to get longer and shorter. By fractions of an inch.

If there's some reason for you to be in the swingarm, then clean up the splines if you want, and even grease them if you want. There's no reason to make a trip specifically for that, though. Especially on a year-old bike.

Everyone says, "I feel better knowing it's taken care of." Well, find stuff that NEEDS to be taken care of and take care of THOSE things. THEN you'll have something to feet better about.

I say this stuff in just about every "I LUBED MY SPLINES!!! THEY WERE DRY!!!!" thread that I see. Spline lubing belongs in NEPRT. It's a useless procedure, especially if that's the only reason you dived into the bike.

 

[mikerider]

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="SLK50" data-cid="1250498" data-time="1439001154"><p>

I never understood the reason for that piece of metal.</p></blockquote>

That piece didn't seem to support anything as it was so easy to break off...

 

[mikerider]

I was removing the wheels and replacing my tires when I decided to take a look at the driveshaft...

 

[Brodie]

Nothing wrong with being curious, so long as you don't mind the risk of getting in over your head. That's part of the reason why this forum exists, people giving back to the community with information, hand holding (if needed), and general good nature fun.

Have a happy Friday wfooshee!

Brodie

;-)

 

[mikerider]

Exactly!

 

[bluesdog]

afaik, none of the bolts for the left footrest assembly require any type of threadlocker. That particular bolt is supposed to be tightened to 35ft-lb, which is pretty darn snug, but at least in my FSM no loctite specified. I cannot recall having any difficulty removing it when servicing the shift pivot for the first time.

If it was threadlocked with red loctite at the factory, and no mention of this was in your FSM, you may want to mention this to the dealer.

BTW, red locite should only be used on fasteners that normally don't need to be loosened. Heating the bolt head with a small propane torch will typically be necessary to break the seal.

 

[Geezer]

afaik, none of the bolts for the left footrest assembly require any type of threadlocker. That particular bolt is supposed to be tightened to 35ft-lb, which is pretty darn snug, but at least in my FSM no loctite specified. I cannot recall having any difficulty removing it when servicing the shift pivot for the first time.
If it was threadlocked with red loctite at the factory, and no mention of this was in your FSM, you may want to mention this to the dealer.

BTW, red locite should only be used on fasteners that normally don't need to be loosened. Heating the bolt head with a small propane torch will typically be necessary to break the seal.

Normally the red loctite requires more torque or heat to remove, but the colors of loctite are not consistent. I have some liquid red that was designed specifically for very small screws and is as gentle as the normal blue stuff. My point is that you can't be sure about the type of loctite that was used at the factory by the color.

Regarding the broken part, I agree with Brodie, replace the part even if it is not a stressed part. Keep the machine like new as long as possible.

 

[palerider]

There's always tension between checking stuff out and "if it ain't broke don't fix it." We know there are things on a new FJR that need tending to (a clutch soak) but Yamaha engineers have over time turned this into a pretty good motorcycle. If the specs don't call for lubing the splines, then it's a good bet they don't need it, and there might be good reason not to lube them--lube is a spooge magnet, and spooge attracts and holds grit that could cause or accelerate wear in parts that otherwise wouldn't wear. JMO.

 

[mcatrophy]

Not sure whether mine is the same as yours, I have the YCC-S variant, however it looks to me as if that does give some useful support to the foot peg hanger. I'd replace it.
(Click on image for larger view)


Off topic:

...If the specs don't call for lubing the splines, then it's a good bet they don't need it, and there might be good reason not to lube them....

The '06 workshop manual specifies molybdenum disulphide grease or oil (depending on which end of the drive shaft). Mine came with lubrication (and rust!). Pics as inspected on 1st rear tyre change, 6 months and 3600 miles. (Yes, I should get out more.)

Shaft


Wheel

 

[mikerider]

<>There's always tension between checking stuff out and "if it ain't broke don't fix it." We know there are things on a new FJR that need tending to (a clutch soak) but Yamaha engineers have over time turned this into a pretty good motorcycle. If the specs don't call for lubing the splines, then it's a good bet they don't need it, and there might be good reason not to lube them--lube is a spooge magnet, and spooge attracts and holds grit that could cause or accelerate wear in parts that otherwise wouldn't wear. JMO.</p></blockquote>

The 2014 service manual did call for lubrication on the spline with 'LS' (lithium soap) grease on the front and moly on the back of the driveshaft. See here:

 

[mikerider]

afaik, none of the bolts for the left footrest assembly require any type of threadlocker. That particular bolt is supposed to be tightened to 35ft-lb, which is pretty darn snug, but at least in my FSM no loctite specified. I cannot recall having any difficulty removing it when servicing the shift pivot for the first time.

If it was threadlocked with red loctite at the factory, and no mention of this was in your FSM, you may want to mention this to the dealer.

BTW, red locite should only be used on fasteners that normally don't need to be loosened. Heating the bolt head with a small propane torch will typically be necessary to break the seal.

My 2014 manual did specify loctite (LT) on all the bolts. See here.

 

[mikerider]

Not sure whether mine is the same as yours, I have the YCC-S variant, however it looks to me as if that does give some useful support to the foot peg hanger. I'd replace it.(Click on image for larger view)

Thanks! Yours does look the same as mine (before it broke off). I'm going to replace it anyway but the more I look at it, the more I thought that it doesn't do anything. The 4 bolts on the plate (the 2 top bolts are 20 ft.lb and the 2 bottom bols are 47 ft.lb) are really what's holding the whole thing. Anyway, it's only a $70 part

Thank you all for all your inputs. I appreciate them all!

 

[bluesdog]

afaik, none of the bolts for the left footrest assembly require any type of threadlocker. That particular bolt is supposed to be tightened to 35ft-lb, which is pretty darn snug, but at least in my FSM no loctite specified. I cannot recall having any difficulty removing it when servicing the shift pivot for the first time.

If it was threadlocked with red loctite at the factory, and no mention of this was in your FSM, you may want to mention this to the dealer.

BTW, red locite should only be used on fasteners that normally don't need to be loosened. Heating the bolt head with a small propane torch will typically be necessary to break the seal.

My 2014 manual did specify loctite (LT) on all the bolts. See here.

OK, so I went and cracked open my '11 FSM just now. It does specify loctite for the two lower bolts 2 47 ft-lbs, but none for the others, (and I now recall putting a drop on those, as I always follow the FSM religiously

)

Weird, 'cause I don't think there's a whole lotta difference between the gen II and III in that particular area. Maybe the Gen IIIs vibrate more

 

[Lowcountry Joe]

Hmmm. Maybe the real question is, was this procedure really needed on a 2014? Even lubing the often dry splines is a feel good procedure. The splines do not move relative to each other.

Agree. I don't see any upside operationally to lubricating the drive shaft spline since there is no relative movement. The only thing I can think of to justify lubing these splines is that it would ease disassembly after tens of thousands of miles in the event it must be removed in the first place. I've seen some pretty rusty spline pictures from different owners over the years.