I Need Help/Direction on Highway Peg Installation Please

[MadMax]

O.K. "I GIVE UP". I have been avoiding posting this question here for hours. I got scolded by some guy for asking what he deemed to be stupid *** questions when installing my MCL risers. Jeez!!! I am somewhat mechanically inclined; but, I'm also smart enough to know what I don't know and will ask before I mess things up and have people say, "you should have asked". I have been told by no less than 3 people plus Garauld himself that fairing/cowling removal is "NOT REQUIRED" to install these on a Gen II [2008]. Well, you got me. Removing the bottom fairing/cowling bolt loosens that part somewhat; but, it is no help in accessing the right front most bolt with an allen wrench. So, having said all that and making myself sound like, not just a moron, but, a complete and total moron, how in the heck do you access the bolts for removal to install these, especially the one for the right side, on a Gen II [2008]? The instructions, short of telling me which parts go on which side, are otherwise, essentially useless. Thank you in advance.

For anybody who is scratching their heads, at the following link, the first picture in the thread, shows the bracket mounted behind the fairing/cowling. Everybody says removal of the fairing/cowling is not necessary. No wrench will fit back there to remove the current bolt. Then, I will be inserting a spacer, a bracket and, at least to start, a 2+inch long bolt with allen wrench (2 1/2 to 3 inches clearance needed). Really? No removal required? Thanks in advance. First picture in this link shows my problem area (well problem area covered up with bolt and hole behind plastic.

https://https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=125205

Maybe my hunch is correct and those who have told me otherwise are wrong and the plastic does need removed. It sure looks that way. If so, please guide me on the minimum removal necessary to get there. I have a service manual on order that will hopefully provide some "service for dummies" type of explanation. Thank you in advance.

 

[graler]

I put mine on and took them off without removing plastic. I did have to displace some plastic. I displaced it to a point that it felt a little uncomfortable. If memory serves a second pair of hands was also helpful for that top most bolt. I took the Garauld units off when I added canyon cages. Now the highway pegs are mounted to the cages.

 

[garauld]

AFAIK, you only need to be able to pull back the side panel about 2" by removing 2-3 panel screws. The new right side screws are 40mm = 1.6" long. After removing the necessary panel and cover screws, I suggest taking the bracket and preassemble the troublesome screw along with the spacer and slip it into the case hole. You could probably screw it in a bit with your fingers. Start the other screws into their holes, but do not tighten them just yet. Go back and tighten the first screw and finally the others. If you are finicky about torquing them, then you will probably need to remove the panel. If all else fails, send them back to me for a refund - NBD.

 

[HotRodZilla]

"Taking the plastic off" is not required. Removing enough bolts to pull it out without breaking the plastic IS! Don't forget there are screws under the adjustable fairing piece that keep the main fairing held down pretty well. If I remember right, I had to take out one or both of those screws in order to get enough room.

If you haven't removed the adjustable piece before, just be gentle. It will "fold" out, and they are held on the bottom with flimsy little plastic tabs. If you don't finesse it out, you can snap that little tab, which will lead to you losing the entire piece at FJR nominal speeds. When you reassemble, put a litle grease on that cross piece that snaps into the metal tab, and it'll make life easier.

Hope that helps! Also, don't worry about people bitching at you. Unless it's a LOT of us. Haha...

 

[BkerChuck]

Everything I could say is already covered above. I put them on my 07 and a friend's 06 without removing tupperware. We loosened everything up and had sufficient room. We mocked everything up and had all fasteners determined and how it would all fit in advance then just carefully took our time.

 

[MadMax]

O.K. First, thank you all for providing input. So, now at the risk of sounding like a toddler who does not want to do his chores by himself, can you direct me to the specific (as best as possible) locations of these screws and tabs. I know I sound helpless; but, in looking at the areas you all appear to be describing, I find one readily available removable screw, on the bottom back. Easy. Two 1/4 twist screw that release (right in front of knee when mounted); but, have absolutely zero affect on moveability at all. Others, at least to me, are not readily visible. Thanks again for walking me through this. Usually, no matter how careful I am, if it is breakable with 100 lbs of force, it will break when I apply 1 lb of force.

 

[graler]

There is a screw or 2 underneath the panel after you remove the 2 1/4 twist screws - remove them and the panel will simply flop open. Be careful you will notice the panel is retained by 2 spring clips and 2 retangular holed plastic extensions. Finesse is the key force does not apply to this operation. Once that panel is removed you will see at least one additional screw to take out (maybe 2). This is the key to getting the clearance you are looking for.

 

[graler]

https://kaitsdad.smugmug.com/photos/520485054_JAjNo-M.jpg

See the screws after the panel is removed

 

[Bounce]

Don't put them down low. That's for sure. If you have Canyon Cages, then put them on the top bar.

Too low and you can touch hard bits that can lever the rear tire off the ground in a decreasing radius turn.

Or so I've been told.