Idle Adjust Screw almost maxed

[Nikk]

While performing a TBS on my 2006 FJR I was setting my idle, it was down around 900. I noticed a few things:

1. There seems to be a lot of slop in the adjuster linkage, meaning the engine doesn't really seem to respond to small changes. It seems if you want to add a 1/4 turn you need to go slightly past that to convey settings through the linkage and affect the idle. Is this normal?

2. Once getting my idle to 1000 RPM, I only have about a 1/2 turn left before the adjuster reaches the limit. Is this normal?

3. Is there any reason I would need more increase adjustment in the future as the engine breaks in? If so how, would I recover more margin in this adjuster?

Thanks all, can't wait to see what you'll think.

Nik

 

[Constant Mesh]

You can probably redo your TB sync by opening all the air screws an additional one turn or so. Then sync again with the opened air screws. With more air passing through the air screw valves you'll likely need to lower your idle rpm with the adjustment knob. This should move your idle knob closer to its midpoint position.

 

[ECDriver]

Hey Nik,

The low idle rpm could be the result of other problems. I have a 05 manual and it gives a laundry list of possible causes for incorrect idle speed.

The best bet would be to find someone with a 06 manual and get a copy of the troubleshooting page covering incorrect engine idle speed.

Just a few items the 05 manual says could be the problem:

Fuel Sys

clogged air filter element, damaged/loose TB joint, improperly sync'd TB's, throttle stop screw improperly adjusted, improper throttle free play, flooded TB, faulty air induction sys.

Electrical Sys

Discharged/faulty Battery

Spark Plugs

Incorrect gap, incorrect heat range, fouled plug, worn/damaged electrode, worn/damaged insulator, faulty spark plug cap.

Ignition Coils

Broken/shorted primary or secondary coils, faulty spark plug lead cracked/broken ignition coil.

These were the popular items, there is more!

Have you performed any other maintenance that may have effected these systems?

Sorry I can't pin it down for you, maybe the above stuff will get you looking in the right direction.

Good Luck!

 

[Nikk]

ECDriver - thanks for the suggestion, since I'm in the midst of a TBS, I decided to look at the air screw settings.

Constant Mesh - Thanks, you are spot on! I know I'm not suppose to mess with cylinder #3, but I did while tinkering with a TBS approach outlined here: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=19417

In the end I returned #3 to the factory setting and recovered my idle adjuster margin. What I really need to do is get a vacuum gauge to properly check #3, but according to my mercury tubes it is close to where it was set originally.

My fault for tinkering with a $12K machine; but I'm back to "normal" if not smoother with the TBS.

Thanks!

-Nikk

 

[ELP_JC]

No worries Nikk. The idle screw is just a 'master' air bleed screw on GenIIs. In other words, it has the same vacuum source as the individual air bleed screws (many of these guys have GenIs, which I understand have the idle screw connected directly to the throttle stop on TB#3; a completely different animal if true). This is easily seen when you have all the PAIR plumbing out, like I do.

If you max out your idle screw, just turn out ALL the bleed screws the same amount (say, 1/4 turn), and your idle will go up, giving new adjusting range to your idle screw, which would have to be turned the other way now. The range of adjustment is approximately from 1/2 to 1 turn out on #3 (then adjusting the others to 3), so as long as you are within that range, you're fine.

My bike (#3) was at 1/2 stock, but I set it at 1. Now it idles to 1K immediately after a hot restart, when it didn't before. Have no explanation, since vacuum level and synch is identical when idle is adjusted equally, but I like it better there. Hard to screw anything, really, once you understand how things work. Take care.

JC

 

[Nikk]

No worries Nikk. The idle screw is just a 'master' air bleed screw on GenIIs. In other words, it has the same vacuum source as the individual air bleed screws (many of these guys have GenIs, which I understand have the idle screw connected directly to the throttle stop on TB#3; a completely different animal if true). This is easily seen when you have all the PAIR plumbing out, like I do. If you max out your idle screw, just turn out ALL the bleed screws the same amount (say, 1/4 turn), and your idle will go up, giving new adjusting range to your idle screw, which would have to be turned the other way now. The range of adjustment is approximately from 1/2 to 1 turn out on #3 (then adjusting the others to 3), so as long as you are within that range, you're fine.

My bike (#3) was at 1/2 stock, but I set it at 1. Now it idles to 1K immediately after a hot restart, when it didn't before. Have no explanation, since vacuum level and synch is identical when idle is adjusted equally, but I like it better there. Hard to screw anything, really, once you understand how things work. Take care.

JC

JC - Thanks it looks like I've got this squared away, but have sent you a PM on a tangent topic.

-Nikk

 

[s_boy]

No worries Nikk. The idle screw is just a 'master' air bleed screw on GenIIs. In other words, it has the same vacuum source as the individual air bleed screws (many of these guys have GenIs, which I understand have the idle screw connected directly to the throttle stop on TB#3; a completely different animal if true). This is easily seen when you have all the PAIR plumbing out, like I do. If you max out your idle screw, just turn out ALL the bleed screws the same amount (say, 1/4 turn), and your idle will go up, giving new adjusting range to your idle screw, which would have to be turned the other way now. The range of adjustment is approximately from 1/2 to 1 turn out on #3 (then adjusting the others to 3), so as long as you are within that range, you're fine.

My bike (#3) was at 1/2 stock, but I set it at 1. Now it idles to 1K immediately after a hot restart, when it didn't before. Have no explanation, since vacuum level and synch is identical when idle is adjusted equally, but I like it better there. Hard to screw anything, really, once you understand how things work. Take care.

JC

JC - Thanks it looks like I've got this squared away, but have sent you a PM on a tangent topic.

-Nikk

just wanted to note that this post helped me a lot today with my 1st TBS - in addition to the other great TBS related posts. my idle adjustment screw was turned in all the way and i was barely at 1100/1200 rpm. letting the 4 TB bleeds out 1/4 - 1/2 turn gave me enough to get my idle up to 1400/1500 rpm, so i could back out the idle screw to 1150rpm - providing plenty of adjusabilty on both sides.

also, i was able to get all 4 columns (morgan carbtune) close to dead level at 4000+ rpm !!!

thx/ al