Ig-e Evaluation of Lighting Combinations

[Ignacio]

Having done MANY variations on the halogen, HID, auxiliary combination and starting with a new-to-me FJR I've reached some conclusions about what's optimal (for me of course) and combinations that are suboptimal. Here's a little brain dump I've been meaning to do for a while. Prices are approximate and ratings are 1-10 on the expertly calibrated Ignacio enhanced scale....also known as Ig-e.

Stock Lights

Ig-e: 7 (Meh.)

Two low beams of 55 watts in a very good reflector make the FJR pretty good stock out of the box.

+50% type Lights

Ig-e: 7.2

They were just a bit better. I did a write-up a long time ago here.

+$40

High wattage Halogen

Ig-e: 7.6 for light, (3 for harshness on stock wiring)

Lots of light, but shortlived and hard on stock FJR wiring. I did for a short time and wouldn't recommend this option even though it's cheap.

+$40

+50% lights + Auxiliary Hella FF50

Ig-e: 8 (Hmmm!)

Double the lumens but double the watts. Not bad for the price, but hard to find FF50's left.

+$40 +$100 (if you can find them)

Chinese HID Low Beams w/McCullough ballasts + Auxiliary Hella FF50

Ig-e: 8.5

Warchild did a GB with a guy in China back in about 2006. The low beam HID lights are the bomb with crystal clear cutoff. Turn on the low beams with the high beams and you've got some good flame throwing capability. Downside of the low beam HID is they take a couple seconds to warm up, so you really should leave them on 100% of the time.

+$100 FF50 + $125 HID = $275

Chinese HID Low Beams w/MCullough ballasts + Auxiliary Hella FF200 HID

Ig-e: 9.5 (Ahhhh!)

4-6 times the lumen of stock at less than double the watts. The combination Hella igniter/ballasts have proved to be far better at ACTUAL watt consumption than the other ballast and igniters. No I don't have measurements and wouldn't say otherwise, but watching voltage drop and talking with other Hella igniter/ballast users (including Warchild) we think these things really deliver on their advertising.

Make no mistake, the killer part of this combo are the Hella FF200 HID lights. They're frickin' flamethrowers with a good solid reflector design. $650 ain't cheap though and they do affect mileage. Guaranteed to fry Bambi's retinas and get you pulled over if you leave on....even with most divided highways.

+$125 HID + $75 brackets +$650 Hella (although I scored at $315) = ~$850

Substitute in Hella Micros and I'd guesstimate it's a Ig-e of 9.3.

This option also has the low beam HID issue. If flip between high and low and haven't done it in a while...the HIDs take a bit to fire up. I would run my low beams 100% of the time to compensate.

"Top Quality" HID Low/High Beam w/thin ballasts + Added Hella FF200 HID

Ig-e: 9.7

I went with a set of high/lows that bmwhd offers here and fairly happy. They provide all the benefit of low HID beams plus an overall improvement for high beams, but I don't think the pattern is as good as an old fashioned H4 halogen high beam. It's like it flips the low beam pattern coldly up a bit...where the halogen pattern is warmer for the task. There was a lot of wire to cram under the nose and I have one bulb that stutters going from high to low (sometimes a few seconds). I also had to notch out my boot and bulbs are barely held in by the bails. I'm glad I tried it, but not sure I'm going to do this in my new-to-me Gen 1 FJR.

Also the thin ballast seem to use a bit more juice than I expected (again I didn't measure...and to bmwhd's credit he did actually measure them). I just notice that my Datel tends to show 0.1 to 0.2 volts less running this set of HID lights vs. the McCullogh's I had. Now, it could be my bike is aging...not sure on this one.

+$125 HID + $75 brackets +$650 Hella (although I scored at $315) = ~$850

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Where to Next? So, I know have a fair amount of gadgets to play with and thinking about it. I haven't yet decided whether I'm going to go with the High/Low HID or Low beam only HID on the new FJR, but regardless I'm going to add some relays so I can choose to leave one low beam on while I'm running the flamethrower Hella FF200 HID lights. I may even run one halogen and one high/low HID on relays to help save watts of one bulb for electric clothing. I did find that I couldn't run full electric clothing, both HID lights, and the Hella FF200 HID without dipping well under 13 volts. At this point I'd be willing to drop to a 9.6 light rating to help buy back some watts for body heat.

Also, keeping an eye on LED technology. I'm not sold with the price vs. performance of the Clearwater LEDs yet. Having multiple LEDs make efficient reflectors very hard, however, the power consumption vs. lumens is impressive. IF an LED manufacturer gets to the point they can offer 2000-3000 single LEDS lights in the voltages bikes make (and prices we're willing to pay)....that's a game changer and an Ig-e of 9.9 could be possible.

 

[Panman]

Fair write up Matt, I know you do the long distance stuff so the more candle power the better.

For us 500 mile a day guys who are worried about a dollar your assessment of the FF50 is good. I find that I use my Hella's more around home on the occasional commute rather than while I'm traveling as I tend to travel mostly during the day.

Also I'm not quite as worried about watts as I'm Gen II challenged.

I live out in the woods here north of Everett and the Hella's do a great job of helping out the high beams before I get to the freeway and once I get to the freeway I flip off the high beams and flip the switch for the Hellas to come back on and the cagers know I'm there!

Oh maybe you should have caption this (For those who ride in the DARK)!

 

[TriggerT]

Nice write up. I am looking forward to seeing how the HID headlights, and dual Clearwater Krista I have been installing work. The same HID's with first generation PHID's were pretty good, and a huge improvement form the stock set up.

 

[dcarver]

Ig-e, what about the driveability factor? My Solteks are so damn annoying to other drivers I have to kill them whenever an approaching car appears. Which seems to be often. After extinguishing, I like to wait approx 30 seconds before turning back on - otherwise I get this really bright flash out of the bulbs that me thinks isn't good for the bulbs. In the meantime, I'm running in the dark,literally. I can really see the need for a second of less bright, on all the time lights that don't blind oncoming drivers.

 

[Ignacio]

Ig-e, what about the driveability factor? My Solteks are so damn annoying to other drivers I have to kill them whenever an approaching car appears. Which seems to be often.

To me driveability factor with other traffic and having a flamethrower is mutually exclusive. With the exception of perhaps finding the correct aimed single unit off to the right looking for deer--I find a low beam HID with a crisp cutoff is the best answer to oncoming traffic. And even in rain they're gonna get reflections and flash me occasionally.

After extinguishing, I like to wait approx 30 seconds before turning back on - otherwise I get this really bright flash out of the bulbs that me thinks isn't good for the bulbs.

I get the flash out of my FF200 HID as well. I think it's all engineered into the units.....probably a voltage spike that changes the temperature of the light cast. I don't pause to flip them on and that batch of Hellas has now outlasted 2 sets of Chinese HID and a year of "Top Quality" HID.

 

[Geezer]

In case you haven't seen these. They are a reasonably priced LED option.

 

[BikerGeek99]

Nice dump, Ig-e. :huh:

Not being a LD guy like you are, but having read write-ups of what it's like doing a LD competition, I can totally see why the bright-as-the-sun lights are worth the investment.

My riding style is much like Panman's and my FF50's have proven, for me, to be worth the relatively minimal investment.

 

[Ignacio]

In case you haven't seen these. They are a reasonably priced LED option.

Seen them, but their reflectors are not-up-to-snuff for LD work in my opinion. Multiple LED lights and reflectors aren't even close to a good solid 5" single reflector like a Hella. My guess is they'd be a Ig-e of 8.5-9 combined with HID low beams. When they get to a single LED with 2500 lumens and a decent reflector...it's time to look.

 

[HIGHLANDER]

In case you haven't seen these. They are a reasonably priced LED option.

I have those and the Solteks, these ADV LED's, including the Clearwaters, are more of a shotgun effect in my opinion. There's no long range focus. If you look at LED flashlights there is more of a "cone " to focus the light. The ADV's and Clearwaters are good "area" lights, good for cornering lights and being seen, but don't have the long range focal point for traveling FJR nominal speeds.

 

[Geezer]

I have those and the Solteks, these ADV LED's, including the Clearwaters, are more of a shotgun effect in my opinion. There's no long range focus. If you look at LED flashlights there is more of a "cone " to focus the light. The ADV's and Clearwaters are good "area" lights, good for cornering lights and being seen, but don't have the long range focal point for traveling FJR nominal speeds.

Thanks for that information. I have Hella FF50s and they are fine for my needs, but I was thinking that the LEDs would be at least as good and save some watts. I guess I'll stick with my FF50s for another season and see what develops for 2012.

 

[SacramentoMike]

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I took a pair of Hella FF50s off and replaced them with my Clearwater Kristas (the BIG Clearwater lights). NO comparison. Period.

I don't know much about the low-cost LED's you linked to, Geezer, but these are excellent. I expect them to last a LONG time, they draw very little power, I don't have to turn them off in traffic (I just turn them down to minimum brightness--and they instantly come back to full bright with the flick of the high beam switch). And if you haven't ridden with them on a dark night, or ridden next to somebody using them, I really don't think you could know how much light they send out there. Both way out there, and all over the sides of the road where god-knows-what is lurking.

There are more and more of them out there all the time. After all, a year ago they were brand new on the market, and not just one of numerous brands offering a pretty much identical product either. There should be someone with a set in your neck of the woods pretty soon. Try to get a look.

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[Duster19]

Matt, nice write up. I'm excited to see how my China knock-offs compare to my old PIAA 910's.

Not as technical as Matt's but my thoughts on my old set ups. Posting only to add PIAA 910 data.

1. Stock lights without Aux. Lights = I thought it was good until I added my PIAA 910's. (8 until added Aux. lights. Then went to a 6).

2. Stock lights with PIAA 910's (running 35 watt H3 bulbs) Note my datel would drop .6 running the PIAA's. Boy did I think this set up rocked (9 until I added Top Quality HID kit that Matt linked too. Went down to a 7.5 after HID upgrade. OFF note, I haven't seen forum member bmwhd post anything in months. Wondering where he went and hope all is well???

3. Top Quality HID kit and PIAA 910's (Note: my datel went down .1 after installing the HID kit). The HID lights totally blow away my PIAA's. It's almost like I don't see my AUX. lights anymore (high or low beam of the HID lights. Thus, the reason for my current upgrade to the China 4" HID knock-offs. I'll post back later this week when I get a chance to test them out.

My thoughts,

Dave

 

[Alex]

I currently am running the future vision HID low only options with my high/low switch activating the 4" China lights. One negative effect is the need to adapt when dimming the lights. The road seems to disappear for a few seconds :blink: This problem is amplified by the different Kelvin outputs of each set.

It is hard to find a properly focused light without opting for a larger reflecting lens.